The Link Between Dairy and Acne

I get a lot of questions about how the diet impacts the skin. It actually varies quite a lot from person to person depending on how sensitive the skin, and certain skin conditions are to possible food triggers.

While some people can't seem to sneak any sort of junk food like chocolate or other sweets without suffering the consequences, others show no reaction at all.

One link between diary and acne however is a little more clear. It's been proven that often those who struggle with acne also have some level of insulin resistance.

Insulin resistance is a condition where the body doesn't respond to normal levels of the hormone being release in the blood stream post sugar spike. The pancreas continues to release more and more until, finally sugar levels are normalised.
The problem is now there's all this additional insulin hanging out that needs to be dealt with.
So the hormone is then processed very similarly to a male hormone, which has a direct stimulating effect on the sebaceous, or oil glands in the skin. More oil usually means more breakouts.

But what does insulin have to do with dairy? Typically when we think of a sugar spike we think of chocolate, candy or alcohol, right?
Well lactose is the natural sugar found in dairy products and contributes to sugar spikes. Along with added processed sugar like in ice cream, yogurt or chocolate it's suddenly an extra hit on the system.

Dairy also contains natural hormones, since cows milk is made to make small calves grow, and fast I might add. Dairy contains growth hormones no matter where it comes from.

Yes, in Canada we have dairy products that do not contain ADDED hormones and that's great...but don't let that make you think the diary we consume is hormone free.

These hormones get processed in the human body similarly to how we process our own natural growth hormones when we're growing ourselves. In children who already have a ton of their own natural growth hormones surging through them, now you've added in some extra, and for what? Good measure? In adults who are fully grown, well...you see where I'm going with this.

These hormones are also processed in the system similar to a male hormone, again, having a direct stimulating effect on the oil glands. As if they weren't working hard enough already, am I right?

The result is excessively oily, clogged and inflamed skin.

Medical tests are available to see if you may be someone struggling with insulin resistance however, an easy way to see if you're sensitive to the effects of dairy in general would be cutting it out for at least 2 weeks, if not 3.
Reintroduce one serving of dairy like a glass of milk or cup of yogurt and wait another 72 hours.

If you end up having a flare up in your acne, or notice your skin is more oily during those days it may be best to cut out dairy all together, or at least minimize your overall intake.

Of course, I have to say that I am a Laser Technician and Skin Health Therapist. So, if you're going to make any radical changes to your diet please talk to your doctor or nutritionist before doing so.

Choosing Products For Your Acne....You're Doing It Wrong!!

Aaaah the skin care isle…bright, colorful and playful packaging, delicious smells, celebrity endorsements and promises of turning your acne around and making your way to perfect, clear skin!

It’s tempting isn’t it? Even as a laser tech and skin health specialist I still even find myself aimlessly wandering down the very same isle.

First off, drug store skin care is just not the way to go in general. It’s inexpensive because it’s cheaply made. If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck and looks like a duck…it must be a squirrel! Oh no wait, I mean it’s a duck, duh! Sorry.

There’s also a stigma when it comes to acne that’s been ingrained in all of us, and most likely from skin care product advertisements. That stigma is that acne skin is dirty skin.

Most of us have struggled with break outs at one time or another. For some it’s short lived and for others, it can go on for years. Therefore, most of us have been in the very same isle wandering aimlessly hoping to stumble upon the solution.

Now, most skin care you see at the drug store that is meant for oily, or acne prone skin tends to be medicated with things like salicylic acid, peroxides, tea tree oil etc and promise to kill off any living thing that is on your face. Wow, intense!

Anyone who has used these kinds of products know firsthand that they leave the skin feeling dry, tight and squeaky clean, but that’s a good thing since we want our skin to be super clean, right?

No, not exactly.

Would you be surprised if I told you that bacteria is not actually the main problem when it comes to acne? Well, then hang on to your squirrels because you’re about to get the shock of your life!

Bacteria is NOT the problem! It’s been proven that those who have acne also have a hypertrophic stratum corneum. Or, an extra thick dead skin cell layer which sits on the surface. These cells stick together and don’t shed off naturally as they do in otherwise healthy skin.

These dead cells lingering around tend to come together with oil and create a clog. Only THEN do the bacteria come into play to feed off the oil.

It’s right about then one finds themselves constantly over cleansing, either too often or with a harsh cleanser, or both!

Well the issue here is that tight, dry squeaky clean feeling those products give you. This is not a good sign as that means you’ve just stripped your skin of all its natural oils and moisture.

Your skin is now exposed to all sorts of environmental damage including bacteria and dehydration. So, what does your skin do to combat this? The oil glands kick into hyper-drive and produce a ton of oil to replace what was lost.

Now you mix in all this extra oil, with those extra dead cells and you’ve really got a problem!

This is why it’s so important to give up those foamy, medicated cleansers and use something gentle. After all, acne is a condition that causes inflammation and damage so the skin could use some extra TLC as opposed to constant punishment.

My recommendations are always a milky cream cleanser, like Environ’s Mild Cleansing Lotion and a pH balancing Toner like the Moisturizing Toner from Environ as well. This ensures the skin is comfortable, hydrated and balanced. Beyond that there are further steps to take like chemical exfoliation and nourishing the skin but that’s best left up to a professional during a consultation to see what your skin needs since everyone is different and not all acne is the same.

Striving For A Higher Standard

These days it seems like everyone and their dog is a skin care expert, it can be confusing to know how to decipher the real information and the trending now, gimmicky kind of information...i.e. 24K gold, collagen, Himalayan salt, coconut oil, and charcoal ingredients that all promise to transform your skin.

 

First off, many people will be surprised to learn that to be a skin care professional there are no requirements or standards set in place. Not even in spas or medi-spas, and of course anyone on the planet (and who knows, maybe even seriously their dog!?) can sign up and start selling skin care from pyramid type companies.

 

Without needing to write an entire separate blog, we’ll just say that the skin is an organ. The largest organ of the body, and just like any other organ it needs proper nutrition to be healthy.

The cells in the skin are growing and dividing constantly, just like all the cells in the rest of the human body. These cells need vitamins and minerals to function normally. When you come across new, trendy skin care you might want to approach with some healthy skepticism.

 

Skin care that provides high quality vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, peptides and hydration are products that will feed, and change the skin. These types of products are placed in a separate category all together, called cosmeceuticals. They are highly concentrated, active products that are only sold through spas or clinics with trained professionals.

 

Even more terrifying, the same goes for the laser and light industry. No requirements, no standards, nothing needed to get behind a laser and start treating people. That being said, it’s always important to do your homework when you’re choosing to hand over not just your money, but your face to someone.

 

Many clinics and spas choose to set higher standards and will only hire estheticians or laser technicians who have gone to school and have experience in the industry.

Some clinics and spas however, do not. So the onus is on the client to research, and to even simply ask what kind of education their esthetician or technician has and what the hiring policies of the establishment may be.

 

While getting bad skin care advice may not be the end of the world as it may only turn out to be a waste of money and dissapointment in the lack of results, a bad laser or light treatment can be far more costly.

Burns, infections, scarring, permanent pigmentation and eye damage are just a few of the complications that can arise from a treatment gone bad.

 

Of course, this article is not meant to instill fear in those who are looking into laser or light treatments. After all when done properly, the results can truly be amazing and well worth the investment.

 

However it’s important to know that these treatments don’t just involve a point and shoot method. Laser and light physics and the interaction this energy has with tissue is a science and something that needs to be well understood by those delivering treatments.

Be diligent, don’t trust blindly and do your homework!

Why Tanning Beds Are Actually Robbing You Of Your Vitamin D

Many indoor tanning companies advertise their beds to be beneficial for providing vitamin D. This is a marketing angle that these companies have come up with in an attempt to offset the bad reputation that indoor tanning has gathered in the more recent years in regards to skin cancer and other health and cosmetic problems.

 

Surprisingly, this tactic has worked quite well in attracting people who are interested in this new, and so called “healthy” way to get their vitamin D. While we obviously need healthy levels of vitamin D, this is definitely not the ideal way to get it and we will tell you why!

 

As most of us know there are 3 main rays that are dispersed from the sun. UVA, UVB and UVC rays.

UVA rays are the rays that cause tanning, skin cancer and are responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin fibers deep in the skin which is why they’re also responsible for causing the majority of premature aging.

 

UVB rays are the rays that damage the skin more superficially (on the surface), cause burns and enable the skin to make vitamin D.

Thankfully UVC rays are filtered out by the earth’s atmosphere, so we don’t have to worry too much about those ones!

 

A tanning bed will contain up to about 90% UVA rays, since these are the rays that cause tanning, and only 10% UVB rays. Clearly the concentration of UVB is very low, however this isn’t the main problem when talking about why a tanning bed would actually diminish our levels of vitamin D.

The real problem is a sneaky one and probably something you’ve never heard about before.

 

UVA rays denature and destroy vitamin D. Yup, that’s right! You see normally, in cases of long term sun exposure outside the balance of UVB allowing us to create the vitamin, along with UVA denaturing it would keep us from essentially over dosing on vitamin D. But, since tanning beds are about 12x the concentration and are mostly UVA rays, this throws any natural balance way off whack. This means that any vitamin D we’re creating from the low levels of UVB rays in a tanning bed, is being destroyed just as fast by the UVA rays.

 

In addition, any vitamin D we walked in with is also being destroyed straight from the skin as well as the blood stream since UVA rays penetrate deep down into the dermis which is home to many nutrient rich blood vessels. It’s because of this that we’re actually leaving the tanning salon with less vitamin D than when we entered it!

 

So, now that we’ve thoroughly discredited tanning beds in offering us any health benefits…what is the best way to get vitamin D?

Some health care professionals will actually recommend getting natural sunlight outside and collecting your vitamin D that way. That however, leads us to a problem…actually several problems, but let’s take it one at a time shall we?

 

How much sun does one need to get their daily dose of vitamin D? This can vary greatly from person to person and is solely dictated by skin color. Someone who has fair skin and light hair needs a lot less sun exposure than someone who has brown or black skin with dark hair to get their vitamin D.

This process can also be effected by factors like certain prescriptions. For example, something like cholesterol lowering medications can inhibit your skin from making vitamin D since the vitamin is ultimately created from a precursor of cholesterol!

 

The less cholesterol available, the less vitamin D can be created.

Another factor is the time you would have to spend in the sun on a day to day basis is going to vary greatly with weather/seasonal changes. One day it could be 10 minutes on a beautiful sunny day, the next it could be 25+ minutes on a cloudy one. The amount of exposure needed also varies widely depending on where you live and how close you are to the equator.

 

So, that being said, as a general rule when exposing yourself to the sun without any protection such as long sleeves, an umbrella or sunscreen for example. The time it takes for your skin to turn light pink is the recommended time someone should stay in the sun in order to create enough vitamin D.

However, another general rule for sun exposure is when the skin starts to turn red, there has already been free radical damage to the area.

 

This may not sound so bad to most people but keep in mind, it’s actually free radical damage that leads to development of something like skin cancer. There’s a fine line between some pink tones developing and redness developing in the skin. Most people won’t be paying enough attention to even notice that there’s any difference at all and would therefor end up causing unwanted damage.

People also often assume the skin is not only creating, but is absorbing the vitamin D instantly, or at least in a relatively short amount of time, right? Guess again!

 

New research shows that the process of the vitamin D reaching and being absorbed into the blood stream can take up to 48 hours! Until then, it’s vulnerable near the surface of the skin and can even be washed off with soap in the shower!

 

So it’s for ALL of these reasons that getting your vitamin D outside is simply not a safe, reliable or a realistic option!!

Our opinion and that of many skin health professionals is that the safest and most effective way to get your vitamin D is through supplementation. A high quality, high absorbency type of nutritional supplement not only keeps you safely out of the sun, but allows you to dispense exactly how much vitamin D you need for your specific needs. Depending on body weight and many other factors, this can range anywhere between 1,000 to 5,000+ UI’s.

 

Checking in with your doctor is always a good idea to make sure you’re getting the amount you need. Hopefully with this new information, you’ll be able to make the best choice for yourself!!

A Beautiful Neck For A Lifetime

The skin on the neck is some of the thinnest on the entire body which means it’s more susceptible to premature aging.

Here are some tips on how to maintain a beautiful youthful neck for years to come...

 

#1: Prevent.

The first step is always prevention. To correct any damage that’s been done to the skin or maintain what you already have, you need to prevent further damage from happening in the first place. In this case that means wearing a high quality SPF daily! Nothing will ruin your skin faster than UV rays as they break down collagen and elastin fibers which is what keeps your skin plump, firm and youthful.

An SPF of about 30 is recommended for day to day use. When it comes to sunscreens you actually have the choice of two different types.

  

Chemical sunscreens contain...you guessed it! Chemicals that absorb into the skin and neutralize UV rays. To do this however the chemicals must go through a process that leads to them breaking down in the skin. This raises some controversy over the safety of these types of sunscreens. Some of the most common chemicals you’ll see listed in the medical ingredients section of sunscreens are oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene.

 

Physical sunscreens contain minerals like Titanium Dioxide and/or Zinc Oxide and these work by simply sitting on the surface of the skin and reflecting UV light. No chemicals, no interaction with the skin.

  

Our preferred sunscreen is from Environ, it is a physical sunscreen with an SPF of 25. The size of a large pea covers the entire face so it lasts forever, it’s non- greasy and will not cause breakouts!

 

#2: Equal Treatment.  

Treating your neck how you treat the rest of your face may sound simple but most of us don’t use our cleanser all the way down our neck, and we might even think using up our toners or moisturizers on the area is a waste.

 

Since your neck has thinner skin than your face it will age faster, so actually your neck needs just as much, if not more TLC than your face does! When you cleanse, tone or moisturize your face make sure to include your full neck! If you don’t, your face may look younger than you actually are but your neck is bound to give away your age in a heart beat!

 

#3: Exfoliate.

When we’re in our 20’s our skin renews itself about every 28 days meaning new skin cells are created in the lowest layers of our skin and the old, dried up dead surface cells flake off. In our 30’s this process slows down to every 40-50 days, in our 50’s and 60’s it can be as slow as every 2 months or more!

This gradual slowing of skin cell renewal is one of the many major changes, and challenges as our skin continues to age.

  

Without proper exfoliation our skin is left look dull, grey-ish, textured and unhealthy. There’s two different ways to exfoliate.

Mechanical exfoliation involves scraping of the skin to force off dead surface cells. The problem with this is it can be extremely irritating to the skin when done regularly, as a result it will increase inflammation in the skin. In the long run it can also cause the skin to thin out and be more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Chemical exfoliation involves acids or enzymes like Lactic or Glycolic acid which come from milk and sugar cane. Enzymes such as Bromelain from pineapple is a more gentle option and great for super sensitive and reactive skin types.

 

The acids or enzymes dissolve dead surface cells and stimulate the skin underneath to reproduce faster. It’s a wonderful way to produce a gorgeous dewy glow! All while being far more gentle in comparison to harsh daily scrubs which, the skin on the neck wouldn’t be able to tolerate for very long anyways due to this area being very thin skinned.

Top 3 Acne Mistakes

Many different age groups and skin types suffer from mild, moderate or severe acne and almost all of us have been there at one time or another.

 

Most common in teens, acne often shows up along with the introduction of sex hormones that stimulate oil production in the skin.

 

It can also show up in menopausal women as adult acne for the same reason, a shift and change in hormones. The truth is acne at any age is frustrating, embarrassing and can seem like an uphill battle.

Most people can relate to the fact that it seems the more you try and treat acne with harsh topical medications or scrubs, the worse it becomes.

  

The idea that having acne means that ones skin is somehow “dirty” or “greasy” often causes us to go straight for the strongest products we can find to kill bacteria and strip our skin almost cleansing it half to death.

 

There has to be a better way, right? Listed below are the top three most common mistakes people make when trying to treat their acne.

#1: Over Cleansing.

Somehow we’ve been programed to think that having acne means we have dirty skin. Most likely an idea that was placed in our minds purposely to encourage the purchasing of products that claim to clean our skin of dirt, grime and gunk. The truth is acne prone skin is not dirty, it is inflamed and congested and therefor needs some major TLC.

When talking facial cleansers you typically have three options...

  

-Gel cleanser.

-Foam cleanser.

-Cream cleanser.

 

Typically acne type cleansers are gel that lathers and foams up a ton when used. These cleansers are the strongest of all since they remove and strip the skin of all oil. That’s where you get that squeaky clean feeling from. These cleansers typically leave you feeling tight, dry and itching to slather on some moisturizer ASAP before your face begins to crack.

 

However, your skin needs oil. Sebaceous glands in the skin produce oil as a natural lubricant, cleaner, and barrier for the skin. Without it the skin is actually more vulnerable to environmental damage and bacteria.

  

Your skin quickly senses the lack of protection after all the oil has been removed and the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was taken away. This is why most people start to feel extremely oily mid-day and can hardly wait to go home and cleanse all over again...it’s a vicious cycle! Too much oil being produced will actually stimulate more clogs and breakouts, all while drying out the skin and making it vulnerable to damage. Not a good option.

 

The best option is actually a cream type cleanser that does not foam. This will still clean the skin, but will not strip it of all the healthy oils the skin needs! In turn the oil glands will calm down and produce a more normal amount of oil which will reduce breakouts and ensure the skin is feeling much more balanced throughout the day.

#2: Exfoliating.

Continuing to follow the idea that our skin is somehow dirty, a very popular product used by most who suffer with acne is facial scrubs. Simply put, these types of products should either be thrown out or used up on your feet, knees or elbows because they do not belong on your face!

 

Especially for those who struggle with acne, scrubs are just so not the way to go. They create microscopic lesions in the top layer of skin which stimulates a healing response, increasing inflammation. The beads pick up and spread bacteria to other open pores and follicles in the skin, spreading and worsening breakouts.

 

In the long term facial scrubs thin the skin and make it more vulnerable to damage. This being said, one of the main problems with acne prone skin is the extra thick layer of dead skin cells on top, this is fact. So how do we get rid of this build up without scrubbing? Acids.

Sounds a little scary and aggressive right? Well acids like Lactic or Glycolic for example come from natural sources such as milk and sugar cane and are actually more beneficial for the skin than scrubs will ever be.

Lactic acid is a great option for those with acne who also struggle with dryness as this acid increases hydration in the skin, drawing moisture.

Glycolic acid is a great option for those with acne who struggle with excessive oil production, or those with adult acne as this acid is widely used for anti-aging purposes.

The acids dissolve dead surface cells, kill bacteria and actually stimulate the skin to renew at a faster rate. So the more often you use acids the more often you’ll have new skin!!

For those who may be wondering I did not list Salicylic acid here as I believe it removes too much oil from the skin and can continue to stimulate further oil production.

#3 Depriving the skin.

Our skin is the largest organ of the body, yet it is last to receive any nutrients from the foods we take in. It also takes one heck of a beating with environmental damage such as UV light, pollution, cold and heat extremes and so on.

 

Our skin needs topical nutrition and protection to be able to function properly. Vitamin A, C and E for example assist in healthy cell function, DNA repair and antioxidant protection.

 

However most people struggling with acne are overly focused on using cleansing type products that contain medications like peroxide, antibiotics, scrubs and harsh cleansers that they forget to nourish their skin all together.

Skin that is suffering from acne is inflammed, damaged and stressed so feeding it high quality nutrients to repair and calm makes sense doesn’t it?

High quality, medical grade skin care is a must when treating acne. A regular home care routine with the proper products will do most of the work!

What is Glycation?

Glycation is the process of a glucose (sugar) molecule binding with a protein (collagen and elastin) molecule in the body, causing the protein to become stiff and eventually break.

These damaged structures are known as advanced glycation end products, or appropriately abbreviated as “AGE’s”.

 

Collagen and elastin are the fibers that keep the skin plump, taught and youthful. These fibers, once damaged are not easily replaced by the body.

Scientists have proven that a rise in blood sugar levels causes inflammation on a cellular level throughout the entire body. This means when we eat processed or even natural sugary foods, that this will cause glycation in the skin, and this process helps to speed up aging and its negative effects.

Inflammation from this also causes free radicals to form which attack healthy compounds in the body. As if glycation alone wasn’t bad enough…

 

So what can you do about it? Cutting down on sugar intake will prevent glycation damage. To combat free radicals you need antioxidants. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, causing them to become inactive.

 

Antioxidants should be taken in orally and can be found in foods like berries, pomegranate, oranges , black plum, gala apples, sweet cherries, prunes, raisins, tomatoes, ginger, green vegetables like spinach, kale, broccoli and artichokes, nuts like pecans, walnuts, almonds, steel cut oats , quinoa, black beans, kidney beans and even chocolate (should be unprocessed dark and high in cacao content.)

 

Antioxidants can, and should also be applied topically to the skin with high quality professional skin care products.

 

Products containing vitamin A, C, E and certain extracts and enzymes that can be properly absorbed by the skin are best. This will help combat free radicals and even help to reverse their negative effects on the skin, inside and out.

Menopause and The Skin

Most people associate this condition with hot flashes, loss of menstruation and mood swings, but all of these symptoms are caused by hormone changes and hormones have a direct impact on the skin. The adrenal glands and ovaries of post-menopausal women secrete increased androgens (male hormones) and in the absence of estrogens (female hormones), this has a major impact on changing the physiology of the skin in new and different ways.

 

Dryness: During the reproductive years female hormones stimulate a more fluid, smooth sebaceous gland (oil gland) secretion; this oil along with other substances being secreted and excreted by the skin protects, moistens, cleans and maintains the pH balance of the skin. During menopause as female hormone levels decrease so do oil levels and this causes the skin to become dry, dull, delicate and more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Elasticity: Protein synthesis, like that of collagen and elastin are partially controlled by estrogens. During menopause, the lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed or has a history of long term exposure to ultra violet rays. UV rays actually break down these important proteins, and if we lose our repair mechanism then we lose our skin's resiliency. This results in elastosis.

 

Volume: Estrogens stimulate fat deposits in the female body; as estrogen levels drop during menopause, fat deposits tend to become redistributed and often concentrated over the abdomen and/or on the thighs and buttocks. The result is a loss of supportive fat tissue below the skin in areas like the face, neck, hands and arms; this causes sagging and wrinkling due to loss of volume.

 

Renewal: The growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of estrogens as well. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum (the bottom layer) of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate or cell renewal factor (“CRF” for short.) CRF is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the lowest layer of the Epidermis to the top layer, where it is eventually shed off. This process slows down dramatically with age and factors like diet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure all have a huge influence.

 

CRF by age

Babies: 14 days

Teenagers: 21 – 28 days

Adults: 28 – 42 days

50 and up: 42 – 84 days 

 

Pigment: The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. Melanin protects us from the sun by being released from the melanocytes after long periods of sun exposure, ultimately darkening the skin. The darker the skin, the longer it takes to absorb heat, light and energy. This is our body’s defense mechanism to try and slow the absorption of damaging UV rays. As menopause progresses, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced (they degenerate). With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Therefore, menopausal skin is more prone to sun damage, making it even more important to protect the skin with a proper sunblock.

 

So what can you do to help prevent and correct these problems? The most important thing anyone can do for their skin is have proper home care. You can go to all the fancy salons all you want but at the end of the day if you’re using harsh, incorrect and low quality products at home every day, you’ll be fighting (and most likely losing) an up-hill battle. Any skin, but especially mature, delicate and/or post-menopausal skin needs high quality, high concentrated and active ingredients.

 

-Vitamin A to correct sun damage and protect against future damage.

-Vitamin B3 for uneven skin tone, and increasing hydration.

-Vitamin B12 for healthy cell function.

-Vitamin C to address dullness, pigmentation and fight free radicals.

-Vitamin E for all of the above vitamin synergy and free radical protection.

 

The skin is the largest organ of the body but the last to receive any nutrients from the foods we eat. These vitamins are just the basics of what our skin needs every day.

The Science of Vitamin A

Vitamin A could easily be considered THE essential vitamin for the skin. It’s the only one that can not only reprogram, but repair DNA within the skin cells. This normalizes the cells and leads to a healthier function which can lead to the promotion of natural moisture, accelerated healing, normalizing of pigmentation and healthy collagen and elastin formation.

 

In fact, there is a direct correlation to skin cancer and vitamin A deficiency since skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA which leads to cell mutation. The depletion of vitamin A levels is a natural process that happens as we age, but is sped up by things like sun exposure, smoking, bad dietary habits and more.

 

As the skin becomes depleted, the cells lose their natural vitamin A receptors therefor losing the ability to absorb and use higher levels of vitamin A. Almost all medical grade skin care lines produce a retinol product.

 

This product will typically only come in one strength, and one strength only...the highest allowable level of vitamin A possible, usually as pure retinol. Companies will then instruct people to use their product a few times a week at night, with a warning that they will experience moderate to severe levels of redness, burning, dryness, discomfort and peeling. They often instruct to push through this reaction until the skin normalizes, which can take several weeks!

This is now thought to be the norm when using vitamin A products and some people have gone through such bad experiences attempting to use them that they’ve written off the idea of ever trying it again for good.

 

A retinoid reaction is what happens when the skin is exposed to high levels of vitamin A too quickly. Due to a natural depletion of vitamin A in the skin over the years, the cells lack receptors to absorb and use all the vitamin A.

 

Interestingly enough if you applied the same level of vitamin A product to a child’s skin, the reaction would likely be non-existent, or extremely mild as their skin still contains higher levels of the vitamin and therefor the proper receptors to process it. In an adult however, who has experienced long term depletion the result is the excess vitamin A sits around the cells causing massive irritation and forces the skin to purge.

 

This means a hyper production of skin cells to the point where physical shedding and peeling is experienced. The natural moisture barrier is disrupted; the skin becomes dry, inflamed, delicate and vulnerable. Many people experience sensitivity issues and thinning of the skin from the long term, and even short term use of products like this.

 

Even so, companies will stand by their products saying the dramatic shedding and healing response from the skin creates positive changes and is worth it. The industry has been saturated with the idea that using vitamin A means shocking your skin into getting the desired outcome.

 

However, there is no benefit to a retinoid reaction. In fact there are only downsides to be considered that lead to dehydration of the skin which increases textural problems and increases premature aging. It makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria, pollutants and damage.

 

A much more healthy and respectful way to introduce vitamin A is by applying only the level that the skin can absorb and use at that time. Starting off on low doses and increasing gradually to allow for vitamin A receptor development will ensure the skin can tolerate ultra-high doses eventually.

In the meantime the skins integrity is maintained and harsh reactions that can be painful, troublesome and damaging are avoided. Environ, which is now carried at Facial Esthetics One has a unique step-up system that feeds the skin only the appropriate level of vitamin A, which helps to stimulate, thicken and normalize.

 

Ultimately the health and function of the skin is increased to the point where the highest allowable doses of vitamin A are tolerated perfectly. The result is resilient, healthy, thick skin that will last a lifetime.

Moisturizers VS Hydrators

Moisturizers are products that contain things like oils, silicones, glycerin, or petroleum that coat the surface of the skin, giving a feeling of relief from dryness.

The problem is the sense of relief is temporary and often these products can initially feel good after application, but as the day goes on there can be a buildup of oil on the surface and the tight uncomfortable feeling can return underneath.

 

Once the product has been removed after cleansing, the skin returns to feel parched and tight.

To really correct moisture levels in the skin requires a product that can penetrate and draw moisture inside. This is what separates moisturizers from hydrators. Hydrators contain things like Hyaluronic Acid, which is famous for its water holding capabilities. A single molecule of HA can hold 1,000x its weight in water!

 

When formulated correctly with the appropriate molecular weight, the HA should be able to penetrate the skin deeply, attract water and hold it there. Correcting dryness, and not just masking it. This means the skin will feel better hydrated even when the product is not being used.

Those who struggle with dryness may be those who live in a dry climate (hello Calgary!) and even those on Accutane which sucks the skin dry of any natural oils and moisture, resulting in severe dryness and even cracked, sore skin.

 

For a proper hydrator that’s up for the job, we recommend Teoxane products. Teoxane was first developed in Switzerland and is formulated with a low molecular weight, high quality HA capable of sufficient penetration and correction.

Laser Vein Therapy Q&A

How:

Laser Vein Therapy works by administering enough heat energy to coagulate the blood on the inside of damaged veins and capillaries without damaging surrounding tissues. The result is the vessel collapses and flattens, minimizing the appearance or destroying the vessel all together. This is all done non-invasivly, no needles and no downtime.

 

Normal, healthy vessels have valves inside of them that open and close to allow for proper blood flow in one direction. Vessels that appear on the surface are damaged from faulty valves which allow blood to flow backwards, stretching, bulging and twisting them.

 

These vessels are not needed by the body for adequate blood flow. Once the laser has successfully destroyed them, blood flow is simply rerouted to healthy surrounding vessels.

On average, three treatments are recommended for ideal and long lasting results. Results are usually seen after the first treatment.

 

What:

Laser Vein Therapy works on spider veins which are the small, red to purple colored veins that are often found in the face or legs. It is also effective on larger veins such as reticular veins around the eyes, temples and legs. These veins are blue to green in color and can appear twisted and slightly swollen.

Laser Vein Therapy is not appropriate to treat varicose veins which are large, deep leg veins that cause pain and throbbing.

 

Why:

Genetics play a big role in why vessels become damaged in the first place but certain life style factors can contribute to the problem such as sun exposure, alcohol, high blood pressure, temperature extremes, harsh skin care products, habitual crossing of the legs and long periods of time spent standing or sitting.

Melasma

Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.

 

It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.

  

However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.

 

If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.

 

Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.

 

At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.

 

Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.

There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.

 

A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.

These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.

 

As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.

 

Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.

 

Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.

Top 3 Skin Myths, Debunked!!

“A daily facial scrub will give me soft, glowing skin.”

 

Facial scrubs strip the skin of its natural oil barrier which leads to hyper production of excess oil to compensate. At first a scrub will make your skin feel super soft and it will seem to glow from all that extra oil but eventually everything will turn into a dull, dry, greasy mess.

 

In the long term scrubs increase inflammation, thin the skin and leave it open to more environmental damage including bacteria in absence of that natural protective moisture layer.

“The best way to get rid of black heads is by extracting them.”

 

Not quite. Extractions must be done in a very specific and delicate way to avoid damage to the skin, when not done properly permanent scarring and/or infection can be left behind. When done appropriately there will be some temporary relief, until that follicle decides to fill back up with oil again and before you know it, you’re back to square one. 

 

Without regular use of products with acids, enzymes or vitamin A you will never find long term relief from blackheads and congestion. Regular long term use of products containing these ingredients will dissolve pre-existing black heads as well as excess oil before it can settle into a follicle in the first place. The result is treatment and prevention all in one, without ever squeezing and hurting your skin.

“If I tan and don’t burn, I’m being sun safe.”

 

Being any shade darker than your natural skin tone from sun exposure is a sign of damaged skin. Period.

 

After being exposed to UV rays long enough, the skin senses the inflammation and damage being done and signals are sent out to the pigment producing cells, melanocytes, telling them to make melanin. This is the chemical that gives our eyes, hair and skin its color. This excess melanin goes to the surface, darkening the skin in attempts to slow the absorption of UV rays. This is the skins natural defence mechanism against the sun, so whenever there is a tan present, there is damage present too.

 

It’s also been proven that someone who’s had long term sun exposure throughout their life that has resulted in mild sun burns, or no sun burns is at a higher risk for skin cancer than those who have had incidental sun exposure with less, but more severe sun burns.

Your skin is like an elephant, it never forgets. Sun exposure and the damage it causes collects in the skin over our lifetime and can eventually catch up with you.

I'm Giving You Permission to Play The Field!

When it comes to medical aesthetics and skin health, there’s no need to stay faithful to only one treatment option. In fact, it’s better in the long term to dip your toe into a variety of treatments for the best possible effect.

 

Take injectables for example, neurotoxins and fillers can give you an immediate result and can last a long time. Fillers can do what nothing else can, replace lost volume in the face to restore a youthful appearance. They can augment the lips or nose without surgery or downtime.

 

On the other hand neurotoxins like Botox are the only options to relax muscles to minimize and prevent lines and wrinkles caused by expression. All fantastic things, right?

But if this is the only method of antiaging you’re exploring, you’re missing out on increasing your skins quality and health.

 

After years of only having injectables, you may maintain the volume and diminish excessive lines in the face, but you could compare this to renovating the inside of an old house with luxurious upgrades like hardwood, marble and brand new paint but leaving the outside completely untouched.

It just doesn’t make sense to put all your effort and money into improving the inside of the house when the outside remains weathered, outdated and rundown.

 

The same goes for your skin.

 

To improve the natural quality of your skin you need to nourish it, stimulate it and protect it by using an appropriate and structured skin care routine. In clinic treatments like laser and light can boost collagen production, to tighten and tone or remove damage such as scars, lines and pigmentation.

This can often result in less filler and Botox being required, so along with exploring injectables and touching up when needed, results tend to be much more natural and will last much longer than injectables alone.

 

So go ahead, see what else is out there!

3 Reasons to Break Up With Your Facial Scrub

At first you may ask yourself “where has this product been all my life??” since like with most new relationships, it seems exciting and fruitful. In the beginning your scrub may seem to deliver instantly soft, smooth skin and before you know it you’re hooked!

 

You find yourself scrubbing nearly every day and you can’t picture ever wanting to give it up. But unfortunately, we have some bad news…your scrub is actually hiding some nasty secrets from you.

 

1. Inflammation

If you were to look at a facial scrub under a microscope most of them would look like jagged, uneven, rough grains of sand. When rubbed across the skin these grains cause microscopic lesions and damage to the surface of the skin. As a result the skin automatically goes into a state of repair which leads to inflammation. When done on a regular basis you’ll actually find your skin can become quite sensitive and prone to redness and other irritation. That’s because it’s inflamed and constantly in a state of healing.

 

2. Thinning

As we get older our skin, like all the cells in our body, reproduce as a slower rate. This means it takes longer for our skin to make new cells than it did when we were younger. In our 20’s it can renew as often as every 28 days, and in our 30’s, 40’s 50’s and on it can slow down to as little as every 55-75 days or even longer! Now you add in a constant exfoliant like a scrub into the mix and you’re wearing down your skin before it even has time to renew. The result is thinning skin which is more prone to premature aging.

 

3. Bacteria and Oil

Not only do the scrubby beads in these types of product pick up and spread pre-existing bacteria (which is an exceptionally bad idea if you have acne) but it also strips the natural water/oil barrier on the surface of the skin called the “acid mantle”. This barrier keeps the skin protected from environmental elements including bacteria , and it keeps the skin moisturized and clean. When this barrier is removed the skin is prone to more damage and as a response the oil glands kick into hyper-drive to produce much more oil than normal to replace what was stripped away. The result is a vicious circle of stripped vulnerable skin, and excessive oily skin.

Now What?

Of course, we do need to exfoliate so you may be wondering what to do. Chemical exfoliation will be your knight in shining armor to save you from the nightmare that is facial scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation involves the use of gentle enzymes or acids to dissolve dead skin cells, excess oil and to kill bacteria.

It will show your skin so much love that it will in fact speed up how fast your skin renews itself, which will give you a healthy dewy youthful glow. It will thicken your skin over time and help to lift pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores and smooth your skins texture.

 

So what are you waiting for? Tell your scrub to take a hike and get ready for the best relationship of your life!!

The Miracle of Collagen Creams! ...Not.

We’ve all seen them…beautifully packaged and yummy smelling body or face lotions (that can also come with a serious price tag!) that promise firmer, younger looking skin. The secret ingredient? Collagen of course!

 

Collagen is the sexy protein fiber in the skin that gives it structure, firmness and therefor youthfulness! The younger you are, the more of it you’ll have! Due to natural aging, sun exposure, diet and other factors we lose collagen as we age (about 1-2% each year), so doesn’t it make sense to start applying it on our skin every day to stay looking young forever?

 

Well…no.

 

I have to give it to the skincare companies marketing angles, I mean it works right? We see the word collagen and immediately think “Anti-aging in a bottle! I must have it!”

 

The sad reality is this is just a great way to sell products. Similar to other gimmicky ingredients like activated charcoal, 24 karat gold, Australian clay, Co-Enzyme Q10, Himalayan salt, algae, fish caviar extract, plant stem cells, coconut oil, snail mucus…please, someone stop me. I can’t even.

 

There are simply too many of these ingredients to name but they all serve the very same purpose, to sell sell sell! And unfortunately your skin doesn’t actually benefit much. The size of a collagen molecule is huge when you’re talking about a substances ability to penetrate into the skin, which is meant to keep things out! It would be like trying to get a whole cucumber to fit through a spaghetti strainer, it just ain’t happening.

 

Why don’t we just say, for fun, that collagen could penetrate into the skin. Skin care products don’t contain human collagen; they typically contain bovine (cow) or fish collagen. Okay, so now we have a different species collagen in our skin. What is it going to do? Is it going to magically intertwine with our own collagen to give us more?? Nope! Even if it was human collagen it still doesn’t work that way.

 

Collagen is produced in the skin by cells called fibroblasts. Fibroblasts need nourishment such vitamin A, C and peptides to make lots of healthy collagen and elastin. Peptides are chains of amino acids and are specifically formulated into skin care to stimulate collagen production. Laser and light treatments will also stimulate healthy collagen production as this is your skins way of healing, by producing collagen.

 

Therefore, if you’re going to invest your hard earned money into the health of your skin you should invest in the right products to do so. Don’t go for the hottest trending product. Choose professionals who can sell you medical grade, top of the line skin care proven by science and facts.

 

Oh, and that collagen laced cream you just splurged on? Best possible outcome is it’s going to bring a little more moisture to the surface of your skin, since collagen does hold some water. That’s about it though.