Melasma

Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.

 

It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.

  

However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.

 

If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.

 

Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.

 

At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.

 

Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.

There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.

 

A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.

These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.

 

As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.

 

Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.

 

Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.