Why suffering through a retinoid reaction just isn't worth it.

If you've tried your fair share of skin care products over the years you've probably tried out some sort of vitamin A during that time. Most people are familiar with vitamin A as retinol, even though retinol is only one of the many different forms of vitamin A.

If you've tried a high dose vitamin A from your doctor, you likely would've been given a 1% Tretonoin cream which is retinoic acid.
If you've gone the medical grade route and have used vitamin A products from clinics you've likely tried 1% retinol creams, and if you've gone to stores like Shoppers or Sephora it's likely been a lower dose such as .25-.5% retinol product.

No matter where you've got your vitamin A product in the past, you've likely been given the same instructions...start using it at night a couple times a week and slowly increase the frequency of use while pushing through any irritation it may cause such as peeling, flaking, dryness, burning and inflammation. Why? Because if you can tolerate this uncomfortable reaction for several weeks...perfect skin is waiting at the end!! Or so they say.

Once again I'm here to burst that bubble!!! What can I say? It's sort of like a hobby of mine.

So here's the problem with that concept....
Skin cell walls are not easily penetrated. Only certain chemicals with distinct shapes can enter through different receptors on the wall. Retinoid receptors are responsible for allowing vitamin A to enter into a cell. Since there are many forms of vitamin A, not all the receptors are meant for retinol.
Some receptors will only allow retinoic acid, or retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate...you get the idea.

Another problem here is that as we age we naturally lose vitamin A from our skin and things like smoking or UV exposure quicken this process. As our skin becomes depleted in vitamin A, it also becomes depleted in retinoid receptors.

Suddenly the skin is flooded with an incredibly high dose of retinol and it simply can't use it all. The skin cells absorb what it can but seeing as how retinol only makes up 3% of the vitamin A in the skin, the majority of it sits around the cells and causes massive irritation. The skin reacts by purging and results in the peeling, burning and dryness....a retinoid reaction!

The most unnecessary, pointless, painful and embarrassing thing to go through that I've ever come across in this industry. Yet everyone believes this is the way to perfect skin, but usually because they're only regurgitating information that was given to them by the sales rep of companies who make products like these. Not because they know how the skin actually functions and how it is affected by different chemical substances.

The end result if someone can actually tolerate an on going retinoid reaction for that long until the skin acclimatizes is usually sensitive skin that is thinner than before, and likely more dehydrated too.
The constant inflammation and peeling caused from a retinoid reaction opens the skin up to more environmental damage such as dehydration, pollution, bacteria and can leave the skin hyper sensitive and prone to redness.
More often than not however, the ongoing reaction is not tolerated long enough for the skin to acclimatize and the use of the product is discontinued with the final impression being that vitamin A is awful and doesn't work.

There are so many vitamin A products on the market and sadly few of them are sophisticated enough    to work with the skin instead of against it. This is why vitamin A has acquired such a bad name over the years and is now thought of as a very harsh product to use.

The truth is vitamin A is vital for the skin and has many positive benefits such as anti-aging, normalizing the function of the skin and even repairing DNA damage caused from UV exposure.
So why is something as important as vitamin A not being formulated in a smarter way?
Well it is, but like I said it can be hard to find amongst the sea of 1% rip your face off strength retinol creams.

Environ makes all their vitamin A products in a step-up system and use a complex of several different forms of vitamin A to utilize all the different receptors on the skin cells. This means more of the vitamin A is actually used by the skin, is tolerated much better and makes the skin stronger.
By starting on a low dose and moving on to the higher doses, the skin can acclimatize to levels normally by making more retinoid receptors over time and therefor use the vitamin A properly and in a way that does not cause severe reactions.

Who would've thought that formulating a product according to how the skin functions would be a good idea?!

This is the main reason I swear by Environ products. They're smart, high quality, high concentrated products that are made from a company that actually has respect for the skin.


To book a consultation with me...
Call LAB11 Advanced Medical Aesthetics ‭(403) 283-0764‬

Skin Lighteners and Brighteners vs Skin Bleachers....What's The Difference?

I can't stress enough how important it is to do your research before trusting your face to someone, but to questions any before and after photos you may come across too.

Whether it's results from treatment or skin care product, it's important to ask lots of questions...
"Is this treatment/product healthy for the skin?"
"How many treatments did it take to achieve this result?"
"How long was this product used for?"
"Can this product be used indefinitely without any negative side effects?"
"Were injectables like Botox or Dermal Fillers used along with this product or treatment?"

Just to list a few.

I personally see a lot of before and after photos floating around Instagram or Facebook showing the apparent "incredible results" on hyperpigmentation or Melasma from simply using topical products.
To be honest this always makes me cringe a little because I know that there are so many people out there seeing these pictures who don't know the difference between results that came from a healthy and respectable way of treating the skin, and results that came from the exact opposite kind of treatment.

I've always preached about healthy and sustainable ways to treat the skin since my goal is not to just make the problem go away, but instead treat the problem and find a great solution that also makes the skin stronger and healthier throughout the process.

When it comes to something like hyperpigmentation from sun exposure or discoloured marks left over from breakouts, or hormonal pigment like Melasma there are a few different topical options to choose from.

Lets start with my favourite (insert sarcastic eye roll here) ....bleaching agents!!
The most common is something called Hydroquinone or "HQ" for short. This is a chemical that has actually been banned in several countries due to the fact that it's a potential carcinogen to humans.
It's been proven to cause cancer in rats. Wonderful!
Hydroquinone works by essentially poisoning the pigment (melanin) producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.
It seems to "work" very quickly and often makes people very happy as a result, but hang on!
It comes with a catch.

When used for too long, the HQ can kill off melanocytes all together and once a melanocyte has died it does not regenerate. So, instead of hyperpigmentation, you're now left with permanent hypopigmentation which looks like white splotches in the skin.
If the use of the product is discontinued before this point (since you can't use it indefinitely) the damage done to the melanocytes is repaired and they kick into high gear with a vengeance!
The problem often comes back but far worse than it ever was in the first place.

This is not a healthy or sustainable option. End of story.

On the flip side skin lighteners and brighteners such as vitamin c, kojic acid, licorice root for example are technically known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is a nonessential amino acid made by the body which is a building block for several important neurotransmitters like epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine. In the skin it's responsible for communicating with the melanocytes, signaling them to make melanin.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root all work by blocking that signal to the melanocyte, therefor diminishing the production of melanin. This is not harmful to the skin whatsoever and can be used forever with only positive benefits!

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant which aids in sun protection, healthy collagen production and neutralizes free radicals.
Kojic acid has antimicrobial properties and licorice root is an anti-inflammatory, is also an antioxidant and helps to regulate oil production in the skin.
All great things!!

Follow me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

Popular Misconceptions About Skin Care

It can shrink your pores!!


Nope. Our skin type is determined by our genes and the size of our pores, oil glands and amount of hair follicles we have is something we're born with.

No skin care out there can change any of these things. However, people will often notice their pores appearing larger than normal because they're skin is congested. This is usually caused by oil impactions in the pore which essentially cause them to widen and "stretch".

What skin care CAN do for this is help dissolve that oil so the pore can relax and return to it's normal size. Things like acids and enzymes work best as they gently dissolve surface debris such as dead skin cells which makes it easier for the oil to come out. When used regularly debris on the surface is kept to a minimum and so the acids or enzymes can get to work on the oil inside the pores too.

I never recommend any kind of "quick fix" such as extractions for example. Yes, the process will help to purge the skin but when not done correctly it can actually be very damaging for the skin.
Also when improper products are being used at home, the problem will just come right back.

Regular use of a chemical exfoliant will treat the congestion but also prevent it from happening in the future.


A facial cleanser should leave you "squeaky clean".

No!! This is probably the most common mistake people make with their skin care. A cleanser should not leave you feeling tight, dry or squeaky clean.
All that means is you've removed your natural oil barrier called your acid mantle from the surface. This barrier is created by the skin and is an oil/water film. It's purpose is to keep the skin clean, protected and hydrated.
When removed, the oil glands in the skin kick into hyper drive and produce far more oil than normal to replace what was lost.

Ever experienced that gradual oil build up during the day that leaves you feeling super greasy and itching to go home and cleanse again? Yup. You're stripping your skin and it's a vicious cycle!
In the long term this can lead to premature aging, dehydration and more.

It can easily be fixed however by switching to a gentle cleanser, possibly even a lotion/milk cleanser that does not foam. A cleanser does not have to foam up to clean your skin, by the way.
The job of a cleanser is to change the pH of the skin, allowing impurities to come out. That's it, and you don't need foam for that!


All natural/organic skin care that doesn't contain any preservatives is the best.

In this day and age when everything is full of weird chemicals, hormones or grown with pesticides it's very easy to understand why people tend to gravitate to the seemingly most healthy and clean products.
When it comes to skin care formulation however it's a bit of a different story. A lot goes in to making products for the skin that are effective, active, stable, long lasting and healthy.

Even the containers that hold the products are extremely important! For example....
Lets say you have an all natural preservative free vitamin C lotion that is packaged in a twist off lid style jar.

The first problem with this is vitamin C is actually a very difficult vitamin to keep stable in a formulation. Second the fact that the jar is opened up each and every time the product is used is only exposing the vitamin to oxygen and light, causing it to break down at a very fast rate.

At the most basic level, oxidation is the loss of electrons. Some elements are more easily oxidized than others, which is what I'm referring to when I say vitamin C is a particularly difficult vitamin to keep stable. A stable molecule would have an equal number of electrons, so when oxidation occurs and the balance of electrons is changed and becomes unbalance...you now have a free radical.


So that all natural, preservative free jar of vitamin C cream that you think is so healthy, quickly turns to a jar of free radicals especially when it's constantly exposed to light and oxygen. This process actually happens very quickly and may only take a couple days before most of the vitamin C is destroyed.

Follow me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

Before I was a Laser Tech, I was a client and here's what happend to me.

I wanted to share a more personal story with everyone to explain why I do things the way I do as a laser tech and skin health therapist. I'm specifically talking about how I encourage everyone to be diligent and do their research before even stepping foot into an aesthetic clinic and definitely before hopping into a treatment chair and trusting a total stranger with your face.

When I was 17-20 years old I had persistent acne on my forehead. It was painful, embarrassing and left me with scars. I hated my skin.
I spent so much time and effort covering my scars every day with layer upon layer of heavy makeup before I'd even leave the house to run a simple errand.

Eventually I thought there must be something I could do to make them go away. I tried to do research on what the best treatment might be for me, but I was overwhelmed by so many options and found it extremely confusing since every site I looked at on line had a completely different opinion about what really works.

I ended up stumbling upon a new "laser clinic" that was close to where I was living at the time so I thought I'd give it a try based on nothing except the location. I called in to book my appointment and without even asking what I wanted the treatment for the man on the phone said "our laser will make you look ten years younger after one treatment!"

Ooook....I was 20 years old at the time and had no desire to look any younger, I just wanted my scars gone. I disregarded that comment and booked an appointment anyways.

When I walked into the "clinic" I realized it was actually a hair salon so at first I thought I must've been in the wrong place. After going to the front desk to ask it turned out I was in the right place after all.

It wasn't a laser clinic, it was just a room in the back of the salon that someone was renting to do services in. I didn't really think anything of it.
Eventually a woman came and took me to the small room in the back. She didn't explain the treatment to me, how it works, what it feels like, what to do afterwards...nothing.

She told me to lay down on the treatment table, so I did and she immediately put metal goggles over my eyes. So not only do I have no idea of what's about to happen, but now I can't even see. Great!

A few moments passed and I heard the woman call out to someone but wasn't sure who as she was speaking another language now. I heard the door open and a man came into the room.
They started going back and forth in discussion while I lie there and wasn't able to understand a single word.

I slid my goggles off to see the woman had the manual to the machine out on the table and was flipping through the pages while talking to her husband.

This probably should've been the point where I clued in that these people really didn't know what they were doing, and I should've gotten up and walked out.
But I didn't! Because I was 20 years old and sick of being embarrassed of my skin and was willing to risk being treated by this clueless woman if it meant my scars would get better.

I mean, what's the worst that could happen right??....oh, if  my 20 year old self had only known!
I would've RAN straight out of that room.

With a nervous knot in my stomach I laid back down and let her start the treatment. I wasn't prepared for the pain or bright flashing lights I could see regardless of wearing metal goggles, so that really startled me at first. I had to wonder if that was normal, or if I was risking damage to my eyes.

I asked the lady to stop and I told her I could see the bright light. She said it wasn't a problem and kept going...not exactly the warmest personality I've ever come across.

I couldn't wait for her to finish. When she finally did she took my goggles off, and told me to reschedule in a couple weeks for another treatment.
She didn't give me any post care instructions, or even tell me to wear sunscreen. It was the middle of summer, I was outdoors a lot and never wore sunscreen.

I ended up doing two more treatments which were over $200 a pop. That was a lot of money for me at the time since I was working in retail, but again I didn't care. I just wanted my scars gone.

In the end the treatments didn't change a single thing about my skin except for the fact that I had accumulating more sun damage. I wasn't informed that the treatments would make my skin more photo-sensitive than normal and I went all summer long without a drop of sunscreen.

I think back on that experience now and I'm so grateful it wasn't any worse.
I know now that lady was treating me with an IPL (Intense Pulse Light) which isn't a laser.
I now know that IPL has the highest risk of burns and other complications than any other light based device.
I now know that to claim one treatment will make someone look ten years younger is beyond outrageous and misleading.

I also know now that there is no education required before someone can get behind a laser, IPL or nearly any other aesthetic device/machine out there and treat someone. Terrifying!!

I can only assume that I paid all that money to be under treated since this is a common occurrence when technicians are unsure of the proper settings to use on someone.

It's because of that experience I strive to make sure everyone in my treatment chair feels informed, comfortable and confident in anything they choose to do for their skin. Even if it's just trying new skin care products.

I make sure everyone knows exactly what to expect before, during and after their treatments. I always make sure they can get in touch with me should they have any questions or concerns.
I don't mind a little "hand holding" if it means my clients are comfortable and happy with the service I provide for them. I will never sugar coat anything or give someone unrealistic expectations.

A consultation with me might take a little longer than it does with someone else, but I like to think that means my clients leave far more educated and able to make the best decision for themselves instead of blindly trusting what I'm telling them to do.



To book a consultation with me Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com
Message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

Of All Laser and Light Treatments...This Is The Most Dangerous And It's Probably Not What You Think!

With so many different laser and light treatments out there, it can really seem to be overwhelming.
Many people I meet put off exploring these kinds of treatments because they feel like they just don't know where to start, and I'll agree that it can seem pretty intimidating.

I always encourage everyone to do their research or "home work" on the clinic and treatment provider before committing to any kind of treatment plan at all. There are dozens of wavelengths that make lasers different from one another many and different companies that make lasers, which differ in quality.

Of course even if you find a clinic with the most high-tech equipment, the laser technician has to know how to use that piece of equipment properly and have the understanding of the skin, energy, tissue interaction and the condition which they're treating.
It's all actually very complicated and we've all heard one or two horror stories out there from a laser treatment gone bad.

That's why it's so important to find someone with experience and proper education. Since the industry isn't regulated, that responsibility falls on the client.
To clarify, no...you don't need any training or education to treat someone with a laser.
Scary, right? Tell me about it.

You may be wondering "Clinics don't actually hire just anyone, do they?"
Well yes, some do.
I've seen clinics convert their receptionist or manager to "Laser Tech" and suddenly they're treating people to remove hair, to do ablative skin resurfacing and even internal vaginal rejuvenation treatments.

The benefit for the clinic owner is a less expensive "technician" since they have zero experience, they don't get paid as much, and the benefit for the client is.......

Hmmmm, you might have to give me a minute for that one.......scratch that.

It's simply unfair to the client as treatments can be quite pricey and don't come without risks.
Common risks you may see on a consent form for a laser treatment are burns, blisters, scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, infection and permanent eye damage.

Just to name a few.

You may be thinking those risks listed would only show up on a more aggressive kind of laser treatment, right? Well no.
All those things listed above are quite possible even with an innocent laser hair removal treatment.

You may also be wondering what treatment carries the most risk? You're probably wondering that because it's the title of this blog...so ok, I'm getting there.

The treatment that is the most risky, which just also happens to be one of the most popular and well-liked is an IPL which stands for "Intense Pulsed Light".
Also called BBL which stands for "Broad Band Light" or simply called Photofacials.
They're all the same thing.

This is actually not a laser at all, it's light. What makes the two different is a laser is one concentrated beam of energy and contains one wavelength from the light spectrum.

Whereas as IPL or BBL contains multiple wavelengths and is scattered. While a laser being a concentrated beam of energy sounds way more scary than a scattered light...it is actually easier to hurt someone with an IPL than it is a laser.

Since an IPL contains multiple wavelengths and each different wavelength absorbs into certain things like melanin, hemoglobin or water all differently, you have more absorption into different targets all at the same time which is what makes it so much more risky.
The parameters (settings) that are dialled in by the technician have to be ON POINT for the treatment to walk that fine line of effective, yet safe.

To do that the technician should have a solid understanding of the light spectrum and tissue interaction. Sadly not a lot do.
The most common thing I hear from people who have had Photofacials is that they found the treatments ineffective.

This is common since a technician who isn't experienced will often shy away from stronger settings and simply under treat. So sure they're not burning people, but they're also not giving them what they paid for and the client is left disappointed.


Just another reason to do your research on who you trust your face to!


Go to my Instagram page @Lauras_Lasers to see my work, message me if you have any questions or to book a consultation!

How To Treat Your Acne Scars At Home

To be clear, this is not an article on how to torture your skin with house hold products...if you've read my previous blogs you may know I'm not exactly the biggest fan of baking soda masks, lemon juice peels or apple cider vinegar in place of toner.

Instead this blog is about how to get the most out of your home care routine (with the correct products that were made for human skin) to lighten scars from acne.

To start off, there are actually two different kinds of scars that acne can leave behind.
The first is called Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH for short) and these are the scars that appear pink, red, purple or brown in colour and are flat, not indented in the skin.

The other kind are scars that are pitted and indented in the skin, and these can come in different shapes and have different names such as "box car" or "ice pick" scars.

These types of scars cannot be fixed with home care, so this blog is addressing the PIH scarring only.
I'll quickly say that to treat indented scarring you need to look into things like laser resurfacing, needling,  injectables and skin care as these scars are the most difficult to treat. It is do-able however so those with indented scars should no be deterred by this article.

Do your research and look into someone who has experience treating different types of scars on different types of skin (...hi!!) and go in for a consultation to get all the details.

Now as for those PIH scars...I have to say this is a very common concern as these scars can stick around for a very long time, can be embarrassing and a pain to try and cover with make up on a daily basis.
As someone who has been there and done that, I know how frustrating it is to constantly be reminded of those breakouts from the past and wondering when the spots will finally fade away.

Good news is the spots do tend to improve in most people over time, bad news is that it can take years and ain`t nobody got time for that, am I right?

First thing you have to do is ditch all the skin care I'd bet you're currently using that is slowing your progress down and likely damaging your skin. Make the switch to high quality effective products and once you start to see a difference, you'll be so happy you did!

Astringents

Sometime these products hide behind the word "toner" when they're actually full of alcohol and medicated ingredients such as peroxides, tea tree oil and salicylic acid.

While I don't have anything against those last two ingredients on their own, when formulated into an astringent with a bunch of alcohol it really does suck the skin dry of all moisture and hydration.
You know that tight, squeaky clean feeling it gives you?
Ya, that's not a good thing!

When you strip the skin of all its natural oils and moisture you're removing the protective barrier on the surface which leaves the skin open and vulnerable to environmental damage. It also stimulates the oil glands to work extra hard and produce more oil to replace what was lost. Excess oil can also contribute to more breakouts, and therefor more scars.

Replace your astringent with a real, proper toner. A true toner should balance pH and instead of taking away, it should give back to your skin.
Environs Moisturizing Toner was my first true love and what ultimately got me hooked on the rest of Environs incredible products.
The toner has vitamins, botanicals and lactic acid which all work together to even skin tone, lightly exfoliate, balance pH and add hydration. The product should be used morning and night after cleansing.


Scrubs

I don't care what brand it is or how much you paid for it, all scrubs are evil.
They increase inflammation, strip the skin, spread bacteria and will actually slow down how quickly your skin renews itself, which means it's slowing down how quickly those scars can start to fade away.

Use the rest of your scrub up on your feet, knees and elbows and switch to an exfoliant that will do much more for you. Environs Revival Masque, or Teoxane's Perfect Skin Refiner are both wonderful options.

Environs Revival Masque has lactic, malic and asiatic acid to dissolve dull, dead skin cells, kill bacteria, stimulate a faster renewal rate of the skin and prevent future breakouts at the same time.
I like to think of the Masque as a mini at-home chemical peel. Used 1-2 times a week and left on for 25 to 45 minutes at a time, it really helps to fade pigment, even skin tone and gives a beautiful dewy glow!

Teoxanes Perfect Skin Refiner has hyaluronic acid and glycolic acid to deeply hydrate the skin while the acid goes to work. This is a great option for anyone with severely dry skin, or those who want a product where you can put it on and forget about it as it's used as a night time lotion 2-3 times a week. Men usually love this product!


Skin Bleachers

I know it's easy to become frustrated and want a quick easy fix no matter the product or cost, but please don't go the skin bleaching route!
Hydroquinone or "HQ" has been banned in several countries around the world as it is considered a potential carcinogen, or cancer causing.

The chemical works by poisoning the pigment producing cells in the skin, called melanocytes.
Long term use of the chemical risks melanocyte death, and once a melanocyte has been destroyed there is no coming back.
This means you can be left with permanent white patches in the skin where there is no pigment at all. If however, you stop using the product before you get to that point the melanocytes often rebound after usage has stopped and produce way more pigment than ever before.
So, the problem comes right back and can even be worse than it was before!

A healthy alternative that is even more effective is something like Environs C-Boost Lotion. 
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and helps to lighten and brighten the skin naturally by simply blocking the signals to the melanocytes, so they never get the message to make more pigment!
Besides that it stimulates healthy collagen production, protects against sun damage, evens skin tone and hydrates all at the same time.
The product can be used twice a day for years and it will only make the skin more healthy and resilient.


For any questions or to book a consultation with me you can contact me through my Instagram page which is @Lauras_Lasers or call/text 403 991 1663

Why Environ Skin Care Is The Best Bang For Your Buck, By A Mile!!

It's definitely no secret that I truly believe Environ is the best skin care out there. 
I've been using it for over 5 years and I'm baffled at the transformation my skin has gone through. Not only in the way my skin looks, but in the way it functions as well.

As a skin health professional I also understand what it takes for a topical product to be effective and safe. There is nothing about Environ that doesn't make perfect sense to me.

Of course, I don't always expect people to simply take my word for it since almost anyone who sells skin care for a living will say their product is the best. For that reason people often take that statement with a grain of salt.

So, here's just a few reasons why investing in Environ is worth every single penny, and more.



No Fluff.

Environ doesn't use any "trendy" ingredients in any of their products.
I'm talking about things like 24 Karat Gold, caviar extract, coconut oil, plant stem cells...just to name a few.
Ingredients like these are recognizable, they seem fancy and therefor seem to justify the hefty price tag of the product.

In reality, they do diddly squat for your skin.

If I'm being honest the 24 Karat Gold thing particularly annoys me...how is applying a precious metal to your face going to make it healthier?! Our skin cells don't live off of gold people. Stop it already!

Anyways...
Environ only uses scientifically proven ingredients to feed, nourish and stimulate the skin. Things like vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Things that your cells can actually absorb and put to good use which will increase the quality and normalize the function of the skin.



It Respects The Skin.

When I first started at Facial Esthetics One the clinic had already brought on a different brand of skin care. I will not name names, but it just happened to be a line that I honestly loathe. It's comprised of harsh scrubs, strong retinols that can only be compared to something like battery acid and drying, irritating acid soaked wipes.

I simply couldn't sell the line. I haven't scrubbed my face in 6 years and I don't believe in punishing the skin to force the desired outcome. So, we eventually made the switch over to Environ!

Aaaaah, sweet relief.

To give one great example of what makes Environs approach so different, lets talk about vitamin A, which is the corner stone of Environ.

We naturally lose vitamin A as we age, and things like diet, sun exposure, pollutants and more cause the depletion of vitamin A in the skin to occur even faster.
Since we lose vitamin A from our skin, our skin cells therefor lose the ability to absorb it normally over time.

Few people understand that a deficiency of vitamin A in the skin leads to the development of major problems and contributes to aging and sun damage...and even skin cancer.

Most skin care lines produce some sort of vitamin A/retinol product however, more often than not there is only one strength made, and it's a potent strength!

The problem with this is the skins inability to absorb a high dose of vitamin A right off the bat like that, as a result the cells will absorb what they can but everything left over sits around the cells and irritates the entire area.

The skin reacts by purging which creates major inflammation, peeling, burning, dryness and therefor opens up the skin to more damage.
This is called a retinoid reaction and can lasts for several weeks while continuing to use a product like this. Eventually the skin is forced to adjust and absorb more vitamin A, but until then people tend to go through quite the uncomfortable, embarrassing and even painful reaction until the skin finally normalizes.

This has never made any sense to me since there is literally zero benefit in putting your skin through such a reaction.

On the flip side, Environ has a unique step-up system to introduce levels of vitamin A slowly allowing the skin time to adjust, normalize, strengthen and repeat!

All of their corrective serums come in four different strengths. This ensures the skins barrier is maintained, the integrity is not compromised, the skin is properly nourished and function is improved. Only good things come from doing it this way!
Over time the skin can easily tolerate the highest dose of vitamin A and is much stronger as a result.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, it's our barrier from the environment and it's what we present to everyone around us, so it deserves nothing but love and respect.



Science!!!

Environ is one of the few skin care ranges with its own sterile manufacturing facilities with dedicated chemists and state of the art technology.
All products are manufactured and filled under red light to protect light sensitive ingredients. They are also manufactured under a vacuum to prevent exposure to air which can denature active ingredients.

The packaging is specially designed to protect the product from light and air to ensure maximum hygiene and freshness.

Every single batch is scientifically tested by internationally accredited independent laboratories to check the chemical content and sterility of the product.

For this reason Environ is the only skincare brand in the world to carry the prestigious "Swiss Vitamin Institute" label on their products... no big deal!!
This guarantees the products contain the strength of ingredients that are declared by Environ and that consumers are getting a quality, highly active and effective product.



No Animal Testing.

Environ products are only tests on human volunteers and trials are conducted on more than 100 people over an 18 month period.
What a concept to test a skin care line intended for human skin...on human skin!
No bunnies required.



Standards.

Environ is only sold by professionals. You will never find it at a kiosk in the mall or hear that your girlfriend is now selling it from home as a side gig.

When Environ branches into a new clinic many steps are taken to educate the staff on everything Environ does, makes and why.

Personally I've never received such thorough training on any skincare line like I have on Environ.
The company does this because they are committed to quality and not just the physical quality of what they make, but the quality of product consultations and education that skin health professionals give each and everyone of their clients.

This is just one reasons why Environ doesn't do celebrity endorsements and very little advertising at all. The company has become so successful by creating real results through their products, and that gets noticed all on its own!


*Oh, I would also like to add for good measure that I have never been paid by Environ to promote their products.

I'm simply just a huge skincare snob (I'm not ashamed!!) and promote what I believe in.

3 Easy Skin Care Solutions For Men

After over 5 years in this industry it baffles me how so many men are actually so alike...

Most guys despise having a complicated routine with too many products and think it will somehow derail their entire day if they spend 3 extra minutes in the morning and night to take care of their face.

They often worry moisturizers will make them feel greasy as men usually have oilier skin to begin with, and it can be near impossible to talk them into even wearing a simple sunscreen.

In my experience women are much better thinking ahead. So they invest in preventative measures such as antiaging skin care, they partake in treatments such as laser or injectables to fine tune, enhance and correct before there's a bigger cosmetic issue at hand, or just to age gracefully.

Men on the other hand only show up in my chair when they have big bags under their eyes, dark circles that make them look tired, lines that have set in across their forehead or have suddenly started to breakout.

While I have some great treatments and products for all the above concerns they likely wouldn't even be sitting in my chair so soon if they took the time to do some simple things at home.


1. Cleanse and Tone

There is a rhyme and reason for everything in this industry and the cleansing and toning part of the at home regimen often gets brushed off because it's thought to be unnecessary when it's actually just as important as everything else!

Cleansing removes debris, excess oil and allows impurities to exit the skin. I find men either skip this step entirely or they're using some sort of harsh bar soap that may not even be meant for the face.

Guys, if you're one of the many that complain about how oily your skin is, step away from the bar soap! Now!
Anything that foams and leaves your skin with that tight dry feeling is only going to dehydrate your skin and stimulate your oil glands to produce more oil!!!

Our skin has a natural moisture barrier on the surface and it's there for a reason. It keeps our skin protected, hydrated and clean. By removing this barrier the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was stripped away. That may explain that greasy gross feeling you're noticing around lunchtime or at the end of the day.

Toning is the second essential step as this brings the pH of your skin back to normal which will again, keep your oil glands calm and your skin feeling good.
Now your skin is ready to better absorb any beneficial ingredients from your moisturizer.
If you're one to invest in high quality products (as you should) this means you're getting the most out of your investment!


2. Show Your Eyes Some TLC

Using a hydrating eye product can do wonders to reduce puffiness, dark circles, lines and prevent premature aging of the area.
The skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the entire body. That's why it's usually the first to show signs of aging which can make us look rough and tired. Teoxane has a great option that men especially seem to really like.

The product is called RII Eyes and is hyaluronic acid based which is something that's already found in the human body. Each molecule of HA holds 1,000 times its weight in water!

It has a cooling metal tipped applicator which feels great in the morning and helps to reduce puffiness, it's ever so slightly tinted so it also helps to disguise darkness immediately (No guys, it won't look like you're wearing makeup, I promise!) and it addresses all possible concerns in one easy step...darkness, puffiness, lines, dehydration and dullness.


3. Just Put On The SPF
 
This is easily the best thing you can do for your skin!
Daily use of SPF will prevent aging including lines, wrinkles, brown spots, volume loss, dull skin and sagging. Not to mention it will also prevent skin cancer...the #1 most preventable cancer out there.

My favourite sunscreen is from Environ.
It has an SPF of 25 and is a mineral sunscreen which contains titanium dioxide as well as antioxidants.
It's extremely light, does not contain any fragrance, will not cause or worsen breakouts and doesn't appear chalky on dark skin tones. The size of a small pea covers the full face including the eye area, (don't forget about your eyes guys!) so one tube seems to last forever.


Most guys these days tend to take pretty good care of themselves. They go to the gym regularly, eat relatively well, maintain their hairstyle, have nice wardrobes and wear nice cologne.

All that effort into everything else yet they let their skin take a daily beating of UV rays, pollution, dehydration and malnourishment.



Including these three things will keep you out of my treatment chair longer, will give you healthier skin and I promise you won't regret it!

The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging

Balance:

This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
 By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.

I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.

As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.

A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.

My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.



Nourish:

A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!

Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.

Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.

This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.



Protect:

Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.

It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.

So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.



 Stimulate:

As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.

It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.

Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.

Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.

The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!

Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.

By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!

A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!

In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.

That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start  there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.

Microlaser Peel vs. Chemical Peel...What's The Difference?

It's no secret that one of my favourite treatments is a Microlaser Peel.
They're fast, tolerable, aggressive enough that they yield some fantastic results with as little as one treatment, but not so aggressive that it puts you down and out for days and days recovering.

Also known as a Skin Polishing Peel, or Micron Peel. I prefer to perform the treatment with  Fotona Erbium YAG which is a 2940 nm wavelength laser. The huge benefit of this system is that it's a medical grade laser, it's even used for surgery.

So not only is the system extremely high tech, but it's also extremely versatile and allows the user to dial in whatever settings they see fit. It's extremely customizable, unlike some other run of the mill systems out there that have pre-determined programs for the user to choose from...program A, B, C. Level 1, 2 or 3...you get the idea.

My preferred depth for the treatment is 20 microns on the face, and 15 microns on the eyes.
To give you an idea, I'd have to go 1,000 microns to go 1mm deep in the skin.
So, 20 microns is really not that aggressive. It's really only working on the surface to vaporize the dead surface cell layer on top of the skin.

I often compare one Microlaser Peel to have a full series (5 or 6) mild to moderate Chemical Peels, but in one treatment, and with a laser instead. No acids, no chemicals.

The obvious benefit of choosing a Microlaser Peel over a full series of chemical peels is you save a ton of time. Usually chemical peels are done anywhere from 2-4 weeks apart. So it's going to take some significant time to get through all the treatments and finally see the end result.

While I'm also a big fan of chemical peels, they just don't measure up to what a laser can do.
Chemical peels come in different forms, different percentages and pH levels which determine the strength. They work by eating away at dead surface cells, dissolving excess oil, killing bacteria, and stimulating a higher cell renewal rate.

However, a single Microlaser peel does all of that and more. The biggest difference is that by using a laser, you have the added benefit of putting energy into the skin, laser energy, which converts to heat in the tissue.
I can also dial in exactly how much heat I want to put into the skin, which is a huge benefit as that allows me to treat any skin colour and nearly any skin concern.

Heat stimulates collagen production and a natural healing response but much deeper than your typical chemical peel would, so therefor it's much better for anti-ageing.

A Microlaser Peel is also ablative, meaning it removes tissue.
While chemical peels dissolve dead surface cells, a Microlaser Peel done with an Erbium YAG is vaporizing cells.
So if you're someone who's concerned with something like sun damage (brown spots), a Microlaser Peel will physically remove those cells. A chemical peel will only fade the pigment.

There's also the nice bonus of treating right over the eyelids, from the brow down to the lash line and from the cheek bone up to the lash line. You definitely can't take acids and chemicals around the eyes.

After inserting surgical grade ocular shields to protect the eyes from the laser light, the treatment takes about 5 minutes and the result is smoothing, firming and tightening of the area.

After one Microlaser Peel, everyone will see a noticeable difference. The skin is smoother, brighter, softer and more even. After 2-3 peels done one month apart, the results can be remarkable.

There is no real downtime after the treatment, only social downtime meaning makeup cannot be applied for three days afterwards. A post healing balm must be worn instead for those three days to keep the skin protected and hydrated. Sun exposure is a big no-no until a proper SPF can applied on day four.

I do have many patients that choose to go into work regardless of not wearing any makeup and being red and a little blotchy, and that's perfectly fine too. As long as the guidelines are followed afterwards and the proper products are being used, there's no need to hide away for those three days.

Other people however, do schedule the time to stay at home and wait until all shedding and healing of the skin is complete. On day four mineral powders and SPF can be applied and you can go back to your normal routine.

To this day I've never performed a Microlaser Peel for anyone who didn't love the results!

Home "Remedies" For Acne, Debunked!!

Apple Cider Vinegar.

This is the one I hear most often, so lets start off with the obvious...

All vinegar is very acidic, and while the skin is also acidic (healthy skin's pH should be about 4.5-5.5) this is taking it to the extreme.
The pH of vinegar sits around a 2 - 3 and not too far away from this is battery acid sitting comfortably at 1, I might add.

As I sit here reading all these ridiculous articles on the Internet on how apple cider vinegar will benefit acne, I can't help but roll my eyes and shake my head.

Things like "No need to buy professional acne creams, just use apple cider vinegar!" are legitimately making my eyes sore.

Yes, apple cider vinegar will kill bacteria but if you've read up on my other acne themed blogs you'll know that bacteria is not the problem.

Those with acne have a hypertrophic stratum corneum, or an extra thick layer of dead skin cells on the surface. These cells do not shed off regularly like those with normal, healthy skin.
These cells literally stick behind and come together with oil to form a clog. It isn't until this point that bacteria comes into play to feed off the excess oil.

So while it can be a good bonus if the products you're using kill bacteria, it shouldn't be the focus since most products aimed at killing off any living thing on your skin is going to be very strong, harsh, medicated and stripping.

The problem with products that strip the skin is by removing all the natural oil, you actually stimulate the oil glands to produce more! Which is bound to create more clogs.

Lastly vinegar being used on a regular basis will suck the hydration from the skin, creating tight, dry flaking skin that is more vulnerable to damage and environmental elements including bacteria.


...Next!!

Sugar Scrubs.

Just no. Any scrubs, but especially at home recipes that list mixing it into something like olive oil, will make acne worse!
The physical scrubbing and scraping of the skin creates microscopic lesions which induces a natural healing response, increasing inflammation. As if acne wasn't inflamed enough?!

The tiny granules of sugar, or any scrubbing agent picks up bacteria and spreads it across the face into open pores and follicles, worsening the problem.
Scrubs also strip the skin of any natural oil, increasing oil production and decreasing hydration.
If you add a thick heavy oil into the mix like olive oil for example, that is bound to sit on the surface of the skin and create more blockages as it will hinder any dead skill cells coming off, causing them to clog.


Crushed Aspirin.

First of all, Aspirin and salicylic acid are not the same thing. They do share similar chemical compounds since they are both made from the same willow bark, but you cannot simply crush up Aspirin tabs to create a salicylic acid peel at home.

The general idea of a mashed up Aspirin mask, or spot treatment is to help reduce inflammation. Most likely the inflammation caused by all these awful home remedy suggestions in the first place...insert dry laughter and knee slap here...

But seriously though, Aspirin tablets are made for oral ingestion not for topical use.
Using proper, professional products that are formulated, balanced, active, concentrated and packaged for topical use and skin therapy will take care of inflammation while treating acne, hydration levels and overall health.

And if you're looking for a salicylic acid peel, go see a  professional who can do it for you, properly. Peels for professional use are formulated to have a very specific pH to acid percentage ratio which indicates the strength and skin types they can be used on.


In conclusion, don't waste your time and money on home remedies floating around the Internet who could be written by anyone. They will leave your skin more damaged, and you more frustrated then when you started.

Leave it to those who understand the skin, how it functions and the professional high quality products that are made specifically for the skin.

The Link Between Dairy and Acne

I get a lot of questions about how the diet impacts the skin. It actually varies quite a lot from person to person depending on how sensitive the skin, and certain skin conditions are to possible food triggers.

While some people can't seem to sneak any sort of junk food like chocolate or other sweets without suffering the consequences, others show no reaction at all.

One link between diary and acne however is a little more clear. It's been proven that often those who struggle with acne also have some level of insulin resistance.

Insulin resistance is a condition where the body doesn't respond to normal levels of the hormone being release in the blood stream post sugar spike. The pancreas continues to release more and more until, finally sugar levels are normalised.
The problem is now there's all this additional insulin hanging out that needs to be dealt with.
So the hormone is then processed very similarly to a male hormone, which has a direct stimulating effect on the sebaceous, or oil glands in the skin. More oil usually means more breakouts.

But what does insulin have to do with dairy? Typically when we think of a sugar spike we think of chocolate, candy or alcohol, right?
Well lactose is the natural sugar found in dairy products and contributes to sugar spikes. Along with added processed sugar like in ice cream, yogurt or chocolate it's suddenly an extra hit on the system.

Dairy also contains natural hormones, since cows milk is made to make small calves grow, and fast I might add. Dairy contains growth hormones no matter where it comes from.

Yes, in Canada we have dairy products that do not contain ADDED hormones and that's great...but don't let that make you think the diary we consume is hormone free.

These hormones get processed in the human body similarly to how we process our own natural growth hormones when we're growing ourselves. In children who already have a ton of their own natural growth hormones surging through them, now you've added in some extra, and for what? Good measure? In adults who are fully grown, well...you see where I'm going with this.

These hormones are also processed in the system similar to a male hormone, again, having a direct stimulating effect on the oil glands. As if they weren't working hard enough already, am I right?

The result is excessively oily, clogged and inflamed skin.

Medical tests are available to see if you may be someone struggling with insulin resistance however, an easy way to see if you're sensitive to the effects of dairy in general would be cutting it out for at least 2 weeks, if not 3.
Reintroduce one serving of dairy like a glass of milk or cup of yogurt and wait another 72 hours.

If you end up having a flare up in your acne, or notice your skin is more oily during those days it may be best to cut out dairy all together, or at least minimize your overall intake.

Of course, I have to say that I am a Laser Technician and Skin Health Therapist. So, if you're going to make any radical changes to your diet please talk to your doctor or nutritionist before doing so.

Choosing Products For Your Acne....You're Doing It Wrong!!

Aaaah the skin care isle…bright, colorful and playful packaging, delicious smells, celebrity endorsements and promises of turning your acne around and making your way to perfect, clear skin!

It’s tempting isn’t it? Even as a laser tech and skin health specialist I still even find myself aimlessly wandering down the very same isle.

First off, drug store skin care is just not the way to go in general. It’s inexpensive because it’s cheaply made. If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck and looks like a duck…it must be a squirrel! Oh no wait, I mean it’s a duck, duh! Sorry.

There’s also a stigma when it comes to acne that’s been ingrained in all of us, and most likely from skin care product advertisements. That stigma is that acne skin is dirty skin.

Most of us have struggled with break outs at one time or another. For some it’s short lived and for others, it can go on for years. Therefore, most of us have been in the very same isle wandering aimlessly hoping to stumble upon the solution.

Now, most skin care you see at the drug store that is meant for oily, or acne prone skin tends to be medicated with things like salicylic acid, peroxides, tea tree oil etc and promise to kill off any living thing that is on your face. Wow, intense!

Anyone who has used these kinds of products know firsthand that they leave the skin feeling dry, tight and squeaky clean, but that’s a good thing since we want our skin to be super clean, right?

No, not exactly.

Would you be surprised if I told you that bacteria is not actually the main problem when it comes to acne? Well, then hang on to your squirrels because you’re about to get the shock of your life!

Bacteria is NOT the problem! It’s been proven that those who have acne also have a hypertrophic stratum corneum. Or, an extra thick dead skin cell layer which sits on the surface. These cells stick together and don’t shed off naturally as they do in otherwise healthy skin.

These dead cells lingering around tend to come together with oil and create a clog. Only THEN do the bacteria come into play to feed off the oil.

It’s right about then one finds themselves constantly over cleansing, either too often or with a harsh cleanser, or both!

Well the issue here is that tight, dry squeaky clean feeling those products give you. This is not a good sign as that means you’ve just stripped your skin of all its natural oils and moisture.

Your skin is now exposed to all sorts of environmental damage including bacteria and dehydration. So, what does your skin do to combat this? The oil glands kick into hyper-drive and produce a ton of oil to replace what was lost.

Now you mix in all this extra oil, with those extra dead cells and you’ve really got a problem!

This is why it’s so important to give up those foamy, medicated cleansers and use something gentle. After all, acne is a condition that causes inflammation and damage so the skin could use some extra TLC as opposed to constant punishment.

My recommendations are always a milky cream cleanser, like Environ’s Mild Cleansing Lotion and a pH balancing Toner like the Moisturizing Toner from Environ as well. This ensures the skin is comfortable, hydrated and balanced. Beyond that there are further steps to take like chemical exfoliation and nourishing the skin but that’s best left up to a professional during a consultation to see what your skin needs since everyone is different and not all acne is the same.

Striving For A Higher Standard

These days it seems like everyone and their dog is a skin care expert, it can be confusing to know how to decipher the real information and the trending now, gimmicky kind of information...i.e. 24K gold, collagen, Himalayan salt, coconut oil, and charcoal ingredients that all promise to transform your skin.

 

First off, many people will be surprised to learn that to be a skin care professional there are no requirements or standards set in place. Not even in spas or medi-spas, and of course anyone on the planet (and who knows, maybe even seriously their dog!?) can sign up and start selling skin care from pyramid type companies.

 

Without needing to write an entire separate blog, we’ll just say that the skin is an organ. The largest organ of the body, and just like any other organ it needs proper nutrition to be healthy.

The cells in the skin are growing and dividing constantly, just like all the cells in the rest of the human body. These cells need vitamins and minerals to function normally. When you come across new, trendy skin care you might want to approach with some healthy skepticism.

 

Skin care that provides high quality vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, peptides and hydration are products that will feed, and change the skin. These types of products are placed in a separate category all together, called cosmeceuticals. They are highly concentrated, active products that are only sold through spas or clinics with trained professionals.

 

Even more terrifying, the same goes for the laser and light industry. No requirements, no standards, nothing needed to get behind a laser and start treating people. That being said, it’s always important to do your homework when you’re choosing to hand over not just your money, but your face to someone.

 

Many clinics and spas choose to set higher standards and will only hire estheticians or laser technicians who have gone to school and have experience in the industry.

Some clinics and spas however, do not. So the onus is on the client to research, and to even simply ask what kind of education their esthetician or technician has and what the hiring policies of the establishment may be.

 

While getting bad skin care advice may not be the end of the world as it may only turn out to be a waste of money and dissapointment in the lack of results, a bad laser or light treatment can be far more costly.

Burns, infections, scarring, permanent pigmentation and eye damage are just a few of the complications that can arise from a treatment gone bad.

 

Of course, this article is not meant to instill fear in those who are looking into laser or light treatments. After all when done properly, the results can truly be amazing and well worth the investment.

 

However it’s important to know that these treatments don’t just involve a point and shoot method. Laser and light physics and the interaction this energy has with tissue is a science and something that needs to be well understood by those delivering treatments.

Be diligent, don’t trust blindly and do your homework!

Top 3 Acne Mistakes

Many different age groups and skin types suffer from mild, moderate or severe acne and almost all of us have been there at one time or another.

 

Most common in teens, acne often shows up along with the introduction of sex hormones that stimulate oil production in the skin.

 

It can also show up in menopausal women as adult acne for the same reason, a shift and change in hormones. The truth is acne at any age is frustrating, embarrassing and can seem like an uphill battle.

Most people can relate to the fact that it seems the more you try and treat acne with harsh topical medications or scrubs, the worse it becomes.

  

The idea that having acne means that ones skin is somehow “dirty” or “greasy” often causes us to go straight for the strongest products we can find to kill bacteria and strip our skin almost cleansing it half to death.

 

There has to be a better way, right? Listed below are the top three most common mistakes people make when trying to treat their acne.

#1: Over Cleansing.

Somehow we’ve been programed to think that having acne means we have dirty skin. Most likely an idea that was placed in our minds purposely to encourage the purchasing of products that claim to clean our skin of dirt, grime and gunk. The truth is acne prone skin is not dirty, it is inflamed and congested and therefor needs some major TLC.

When talking facial cleansers you typically have three options...

  

-Gel cleanser.

-Foam cleanser.

-Cream cleanser.

 

Typically acne type cleansers are gel that lathers and foams up a ton when used. These cleansers are the strongest of all since they remove and strip the skin of all oil. That’s where you get that squeaky clean feeling from. These cleansers typically leave you feeling tight, dry and itching to slather on some moisturizer ASAP before your face begins to crack.

 

However, your skin needs oil. Sebaceous glands in the skin produce oil as a natural lubricant, cleaner, and barrier for the skin. Without it the skin is actually more vulnerable to environmental damage and bacteria.

  

Your skin quickly senses the lack of protection after all the oil has been removed and the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was taken away. This is why most people start to feel extremely oily mid-day and can hardly wait to go home and cleanse all over again...it’s a vicious cycle! Too much oil being produced will actually stimulate more clogs and breakouts, all while drying out the skin and making it vulnerable to damage. Not a good option.

 

The best option is actually a cream type cleanser that does not foam. This will still clean the skin, but will not strip it of all the healthy oils the skin needs! In turn the oil glands will calm down and produce a more normal amount of oil which will reduce breakouts and ensure the skin is feeling much more balanced throughout the day.

#2: Exfoliating.

Continuing to follow the idea that our skin is somehow dirty, a very popular product used by most who suffer with acne is facial scrubs. Simply put, these types of products should either be thrown out or used up on your feet, knees or elbows because they do not belong on your face!

 

Especially for those who struggle with acne, scrubs are just so not the way to go. They create microscopic lesions in the top layer of skin which stimulates a healing response, increasing inflammation. The beads pick up and spread bacteria to other open pores and follicles in the skin, spreading and worsening breakouts.

 

In the long term facial scrubs thin the skin and make it more vulnerable to damage. This being said, one of the main problems with acne prone skin is the extra thick layer of dead skin cells on top, this is fact. So how do we get rid of this build up without scrubbing? Acids.

Sounds a little scary and aggressive right? Well acids like Lactic or Glycolic for example come from natural sources such as milk and sugar cane and are actually more beneficial for the skin than scrubs will ever be.

Lactic acid is a great option for those with acne who also struggle with dryness as this acid increases hydration in the skin, drawing moisture.

Glycolic acid is a great option for those with acne who struggle with excessive oil production, or those with adult acne as this acid is widely used for anti-aging purposes.

The acids dissolve dead surface cells, kill bacteria and actually stimulate the skin to renew at a faster rate. So the more often you use acids the more often you’ll have new skin!!

For those who may be wondering I did not list Salicylic acid here as I believe it removes too much oil from the skin and can continue to stimulate further oil production.

#3 Depriving the skin.

Our skin is the largest organ of the body, yet it is last to receive any nutrients from the foods we take in. It also takes one heck of a beating with environmental damage such as UV light, pollution, cold and heat extremes and so on.

 

Our skin needs topical nutrition and protection to be able to function properly. Vitamin A, C and E for example assist in healthy cell function, DNA repair and antioxidant protection.

 

However most people struggling with acne are overly focused on using cleansing type products that contain medications like peroxide, antibiotics, scrubs and harsh cleansers that they forget to nourish their skin all together.

Skin that is suffering from acne is inflammed, damaged and stressed so feeding it high quality nutrients to repair and calm makes sense doesn’t it?

High quality, medical grade skin care is a must when treating acne. A regular home care routine with the proper products will do most of the work!

Moisturizers VS Hydrators

Moisturizers are products that contain things like oils, silicones, glycerin, or petroleum that coat the surface of the skin, giving a feeling of relief from dryness.

The problem is the sense of relief is temporary and often these products can initially feel good after application, but as the day goes on there can be a buildup of oil on the surface and the tight uncomfortable feeling can return underneath.

 

Once the product has been removed after cleansing, the skin returns to feel parched and tight.

To really correct moisture levels in the skin requires a product that can penetrate and draw moisture inside. This is what separates moisturizers from hydrators. Hydrators contain things like Hyaluronic Acid, which is famous for its water holding capabilities. A single molecule of HA can hold 1,000x its weight in water!

 

When formulated correctly with the appropriate molecular weight, the HA should be able to penetrate the skin deeply, attract water and hold it there. Correcting dryness, and not just masking it. This means the skin will feel better hydrated even when the product is not being used.

Those who struggle with dryness may be those who live in a dry climate (hello Calgary!) and even those on Accutane which sucks the skin dry of any natural oils and moisture, resulting in severe dryness and even cracked, sore skin.

 

For a proper hydrator that’s up for the job, we recommend Teoxane products. Teoxane was first developed in Switzerland and is formulated with a low molecular weight, high quality HA capable of sufficient penetration and correction.

Melasma

Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.

 

It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.

  

However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.

 

If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.

 

Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.

 

At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.

 

Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.

There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.

 

A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.

These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.

 

As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.

 

Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.

 

Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.

Top 3 Skin Myths, Debunked!!

“A daily facial scrub will give me soft, glowing skin.”

 

Facial scrubs strip the skin of its natural oil barrier which leads to hyper production of excess oil to compensate. At first a scrub will make your skin feel super soft and it will seem to glow from all that extra oil but eventually everything will turn into a dull, dry, greasy mess.

 

In the long term scrubs increase inflammation, thin the skin and leave it open to more environmental damage including bacteria in absence of that natural protective moisture layer.

“The best way to get rid of black heads is by extracting them.”

 

Not quite. Extractions must be done in a very specific and delicate way to avoid damage to the skin, when not done properly permanent scarring and/or infection can be left behind. When done appropriately there will be some temporary relief, until that follicle decides to fill back up with oil again and before you know it, you’re back to square one. 

 

Without regular use of products with acids, enzymes or vitamin A you will never find long term relief from blackheads and congestion. Regular long term use of products containing these ingredients will dissolve pre-existing black heads as well as excess oil before it can settle into a follicle in the first place. The result is treatment and prevention all in one, without ever squeezing and hurting your skin.

“If I tan and don’t burn, I’m being sun safe.”

 

Being any shade darker than your natural skin tone from sun exposure is a sign of damaged skin. Period.

 

After being exposed to UV rays long enough, the skin senses the inflammation and damage being done and signals are sent out to the pigment producing cells, melanocytes, telling them to make melanin. This is the chemical that gives our eyes, hair and skin its color. This excess melanin goes to the surface, darkening the skin in attempts to slow the absorption of UV rays. This is the skins natural defence mechanism against the sun, so whenever there is a tan present, there is damage present too.

 

It’s also been proven that someone who’s had long term sun exposure throughout their life that has resulted in mild sun burns, or no sun burns is at a higher risk for skin cancer than those who have had incidental sun exposure with less, but more severe sun burns.

Your skin is like an elephant, it never forgets. Sun exposure and the damage it causes collects in the skin over our lifetime and can eventually catch up with you.

3 Reasons to Break Up With Your Facial Scrub

At first you may ask yourself “where has this product been all my life??” since like with most new relationships, it seems exciting and fruitful. In the beginning your scrub may seem to deliver instantly soft, smooth skin and before you know it you’re hooked!

 

You find yourself scrubbing nearly every day and you can’t picture ever wanting to give it up. But unfortunately, we have some bad news…your scrub is actually hiding some nasty secrets from you.

 

1. Inflammation

If you were to look at a facial scrub under a microscope most of them would look like jagged, uneven, rough grains of sand. When rubbed across the skin these grains cause microscopic lesions and damage to the surface of the skin. As a result the skin automatically goes into a state of repair which leads to inflammation. When done on a regular basis you’ll actually find your skin can become quite sensitive and prone to redness and other irritation. That’s because it’s inflamed and constantly in a state of healing.

 

2. Thinning

As we get older our skin, like all the cells in our body, reproduce as a slower rate. This means it takes longer for our skin to make new cells than it did when we were younger. In our 20’s it can renew as often as every 28 days, and in our 30’s, 40’s 50’s and on it can slow down to as little as every 55-75 days or even longer! Now you add in a constant exfoliant like a scrub into the mix and you’re wearing down your skin before it even has time to renew. The result is thinning skin which is more prone to premature aging.

 

3. Bacteria and Oil

Not only do the scrubby beads in these types of product pick up and spread pre-existing bacteria (which is an exceptionally bad idea if you have acne) but it also strips the natural water/oil barrier on the surface of the skin called the “acid mantle”. This barrier keeps the skin protected from environmental elements including bacteria , and it keeps the skin moisturized and clean. When this barrier is removed the skin is prone to more damage and as a response the oil glands kick into hyper-drive to produce much more oil than normal to replace what was stripped away. The result is a vicious circle of stripped vulnerable skin, and excessive oily skin.

Now What?

Of course, we do need to exfoliate so you may be wondering what to do. Chemical exfoliation will be your knight in shining armor to save you from the nightmare that is facial scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation involves the use of gentle enzymes or acids to dissolve dead skin cells, excess oil and to kill bacteria.

It will show your skin so much love that it will in fact speed up how fast your skin renews itself, which will give you a healthy dewy youthful glow. It will thicken your skin over time and help to lift pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores and smooth your skins texture.

 

So what are you waiting for? Tell your scrub to take a hike and get ready for the best relationship of your life!!