Skin Lighteners and Brighteners vs Skin Bleachers....What's The Difference?

I can't stress enough how important it is to do your research before trusting your face to someone, but to questions any before and after photos you may come across too.

Whether it's results from treatment or skin care product, it's important to ask lots of questions...
"Is this treatment/product healthy for the skin?"
"How many treatments did it take to achieve this result?"
"How long was this product used for?"
"Can this product be used indefinitely without any negative side effects?"
"Were injectables like Botox or Dermal Fillers used along with this product or treatment?"

Just to list a few.

I personally see a lot of before and after photos floating around Instagram or Facebook showing the apparent "incredible results" on hyperpigmentation or Melasma from simply using topical products.
To be honest this always makes me cringe a little because I know that there are so many people out there seeing these pictures who don't know the difference between results that came from a healthy and respectable way of treating the skin, and results that came from the exact opposite kind of treatment.

I've always preached about healthy and sustainable ways to treat the skin since my goal is not to just make the problem go away, but instead treat the problem and find a great solution that also makes the skin stronger and healthier throughout the process.

When it comes to something like hyperpigmentation from sun exposure or discoloured marks left over from breakouts, or hormonal pigment like Melasma there are a few different topical options to choose from.

Lets start with my favourite (insert sarcastic eye roll here) ....bleaching agents!!
The most common is something called Hydroquinone or "HQ" for short. This is a chemical that has actually been banned in several countries due to the fact that it's a potential carcinogen to humans.
It's been proven to cause cancer in rats. Wonderful!
Hydroquinone works by essentially poisoning the pigment (melanin) producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.
It seems to "work" very quickly and often makes people very happy as a result, but hang on!
It comes with a catch.

When used for too long, the HQ can kill off melanocytes all together and once a melanocyte has died it does not regenerate. So, instead of hyperpigmentation, you're now left with permanent hypopigmentation which looks like white splotches in the skin.
If the use of the product is discontinued before this point (since you can't use it indefinitely) the damage done to the melanocytes is repaired and they kick into high gear with a vengeance!
The problem often comes back but far worse than it ever was in the first place.

This is not a healthy or sustainable option. End of story.

On the flip side skin lighteners and brighteners such as vitamin c, kojic acid, licorice root for example are technically known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is a nonessential amino acid made by the body which is a building block for several important neurotransmitters like epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine. In the skin it's responsible for communicating with the melanocytes, signaling them to make melanin.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root all work by blocking that signal to the melanocyte, therefor diminishing the production of melanin. This is not harmful to the skin whatsoever and can be used forever with only positive benefits!

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant which aids in sun protection, healthy collagen production and neutralizes free radicals.
Kojic acid has antimicrobial properties and licorice root is an anti-inflammatory, is also an antioxidant and helps to regulate oil production in the skin.
All great things!!

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What The Answer To These Simple Questions Can Reveal About Your Skin!!

People are often surprised at what kind of, and how many questions I ask them during their initial consultation with me.
I go over everything with a fine tooth comb so I can gather enough information to figure out what their skin type really is (and not just what they think it is), what their skin needs and isn't getting, what their skin doesn't need but may be getting anyways, how sensitive their skin may be and if it's a true sensitive skin type or if it's sensitivity that's being caused by vitamin deficiency.

There's so much to learn from asking very simple questions. Unfortunately a lot of my clients who have seen other skin care professionals/laser technicians in the past often tell me they've never been asked these questions before.

Of course, everyone in the industry has their own ways of doing what they do. For me this method has proven to be very successful in helping me identify what specific products someone needs and why. 
It's extremely rare that anyone who has started on a new skin care regimen with me has not been over the moon about how it changes the way their skin feels (usually within the first use) and how it looks and functions in the long term too.


So let me share just a couple of my secrets with all of you....

After learning what they're currently using, how often and in what order etc...

My first question usually refers to the cleanser.
"After you finish cleansing and pat your skin dry, before continuing to the next step...how does your skin feel?"

Nine times out of ten people say "tight and dry."This is important even if it's a mild feeling.
This means the cleanser is disrupting the natural moisture barrier of the skin called the "acid mantle."
The acid mantle is a oil/water film that is produced by the skin and acts as protection from dehydration, bacteria and damage from other environmental elements.

When disrupted or removed completely (you know that squeaky clean feeling?!) it actually stimulates the oil glands in the skin to produce more oil to replace what was lost.
Hence my next question...

"How does your skin feel around lunch time on your average day?"
Again usually the answer is "greasy" or "a little oily".

The oil glands are working over time! This is especially a big problem if someone is prone to breakouts or has acne.

"How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"
The response to this question is usually something like "I can't wait to get home, take my make up off and wash my face!"

Someone who experiences this would likely be an oily skin type.

These people tend to save the extra strong, foamy cleanser for the evening because they feel so much build up on their skin. Of course, that means the skin is being stripped once again...
It's a vicious cycle that can be fixed with simply changing the cleanser to something that does not foam and leaves the acid mantle intact.

That's why I love the Mild Cleansing Lotion and the Hydra-Intense Cleansing Lotion from Environ.
Neither of these cleansers foam therefor they leave the acid mantle intact and the skin comfortable. This actually calms down the oil glands and people usually notice their skin feels more balanced within the first use.

Next question if the person is using a toner is...
"Does the toner feel cooling on your skin?"

If yes, this is a sign that toner is actually more like an astringent and is full of alcohol that is going to suck the skin dry of any moisture. Not good!

A true toner balances the pH of the skin and should have something more to give rather than taking something away from the skin.
This is exactly why my first love from Environ was their Moisturizing Toner. After two weeks of daily use I was noticing my complexion evening out and my skin becoming brighter. I was hooked!

It of course balances the pH of the skin but it also has lactic acid to gently exfoliate and draw moisture (which is why it's appropriate for dry and sensitive skin types too) as well as botanicals and vitamins to calm and feed the skin.


Now, going back to that same question "How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"

Sometimes people are unsure how to respond because their skin feels oily on the surface or just in specific areas like the t-zone, but it also feels tight and dry underneath or in specific areas like the cheeks/chin. Their skin may even start to flake at this point. So they're unsure if they're an oily skin type or dry skin type!

Usually they go home, over cleanse to remove the excess oil and apply the thickest heaviest moisturizer they can find in an attempt to hydrate their skin. Again, another vicious circle.

Someone that experiences this would be a dry skin type, or at least prone to dryness. Since their cleanser is stripping the acid mantle from their skin it is now open to dehydration.

In Calgary we have a dry atmosphere (just in case you didn't already know that!) and what happens now is called Transepidermal Water Loss, or "TEWL" for short.
This is the process where water molecules from the skin are evaporated into the surrounding atmosphere, causing dehydration.

Again, a problem that can easily be fixed with changing over to the correct products that would keep the acid mantle intact, draw moisture and penetrate the skin to properly hydrate.
That thick heavy night cream is only going to sit on the surface and give the feeling of relief while the product is on. Once it's washed off your skin is back to square one.

A serum is actually better at correcting dryness since it has a much thinner viscosity and when formulated properly, can actually go inside the skin to help fix the problem instead of just masking it.

That's just one of the many, many reasons I love the C-Quence Serum from Environ. It absorbs so quickly and feels so light, yet it's so powerful...and becomes even more powerful as you move onto the higher levels! It's a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to feed, nourish and correct the skin.

If someone has a true dry skin type and finds the serum isn't enough in terms of moisture, that's where the C-Quence Crème would come in! The Crème can be applied on top of the serum to not only provide additional moisture but also boost the levels of antioxidants and peptides for a potent anti-aging effect.


So as you can see, just a couple simple questions can actually reveal a lot about someone's skin!




To book a complimentary consultation with me to talk about Environ or anything else...

Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
Instagram: @lauras_lasers

How To Treat Your Acne Scars At Home

To be clear, this is not an article on how to torture your skin with house hold products...if you've read my previous blogs you may know I'm not exactly the biggest fan of baking soda masks, lemon juice peels or apple cider vinegar in place of toner.

Instead this blog is about how to get the most out of your home care routine (with the correct products that were made for human skin) to lighten scars from acne.

To start off, there are actually two different kinds of scars that acne can leave behind.
The first is called Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH for short) and these are the scars that appear pink, red, purple or brown in colour and are flat, not indented in the skin.

The other kind are scars that are pitted and indented in the skin, and these can come in different shapes and have different names such as "box car" or "ice pick" scars.

These types of scars cannot be fixed with home care, so this blog is addressing the PIH scarring only.
I'll quickly say that to treat indented scarring you need to look into things like laser resurfacing, needling,  injectables and skin care as these scars are the most difficult to treat. It is do-able however so those with indented scars should no be deterred by this article.

Do your research and look into someone who has experience treating different types of scars on different types of skin (...hi!!) and go in for a consultation to get all the details.

Now as for those PIH scars...I have to say this is a very common concern as these scars can stick around for a very long time, can be embarrassing and a pain to try and cover with make up on a daily basis.
As someone who has been there and done that, I know how frustrating it is to constantly be reminded of those breakouts from the past and wondering when the spots will finally fade away.

Good news is the spots do tend to improve in most people over time, bad news is that it can take years and ain`t nobody got time for that, am I right?

First thing you have to do is ditch all the skin care I'd bet you're currently using that is slowing your progress down and likely damaging your skin. Make the switch to high quality effective products and once you start to see a difference, you'll be so happy you did!

Astringents

Sometime these products hide behind the word "toner" when they're actually full of alcohol and medicated ingredients such as peroxides, tea tree oil and salicylic acid.

While I don't have anything against those last two ingredients on their own, when formulated into an astringent with a bunch of alcohol it really does suck the skin dry of all moisture and hydration.
You know that tight, squeaky clean feeling it gives you?
Ya, that's not a good thing!

When you strip the skin of all its natural oils and moisture you're removing the protective barrier on the surface which leaves the skin open and vulnerable to environmental damage. It also stimulates the oil glands to work extra hard and produce more oil to replace what was lost. Excess oil can also contribute to more breakouts, and therefor more scars.

Replace your astringent with a real, proper toner. A true toner should balance pH and instead of taking away, it should give back to your skin.
Environs Moisturizing Toner was my first true love and what ultimately got me hooked on the rest of Environs incredible products.
The toner has vitamins, botanicals and lactic acid which all work together to even skin tone, lightly exfoliate, balance pH and add hydration. The product should be used morning and night after cleansing.


Scrubs

I don't care what brand it is or how much you paid for it, all scrubs are evil.
They increase inflammation, strip the skin, spread bacteria and will actually slow down how quickly your skin renews itself, which means it's slowing down how quickly those scars can start to fade away.

Use the rest of your scrub up on your feet, knees and elbows and switch to an exfoliant that will do much more for you. Environs Revival Masque, or Teoxane's Perfect Skin Refiner are both wonderful options.

Environs Revival Masque has lactic, malic and asiatic acid to dissolve dull, dead skin cells, kill bacteria, stimulate a faster renewal rate of the skin and prevent future breakouts at the same time.
I like to think of the Masque as a mini at-home chemical peel. Used 1-2 times a week and left on for 25 to 45 minutes at a time, it really helps to fade pigment, even skin tone and gives a beautiful dewy glow!

Teoxanes Perfect Skin Refiner has hyaluronic acid and glycolic acid to deeply hydrate the skin while the acid goes to work. This is a great option for anyone with severely dry skin, or those who want a product where you can put it on and forget about it as it's used as a night time lotion 2-3 times a week. Men usually love this product!


Skin Bleachers

I know it's easy to become frustrated and want a quick easy fix no matter the product or cost, but please don't go the skin bleaching route!
Hydroquinone or "HQ" has been banned in several countries around the world as it is considered a potential carcinogen, or cancer causing.

The chemical works by poisoning the pigment producing cells in the skin, called melanocytes.
Long term use of the chemical risks melanocyte death, and once a melanocyte has been destroyed there is no coming back.
This means you can be left with permanent white patches in the skin where there is no pigment at all. If however, you stop using the product before you get to that point the melanocytes often rebound after usage has stopped and produce way more pigment than ever before.
So, the problem comes right back and can even be worse than it was before!

A healthy alternative that is even more effective is something like Environs C-Boost Lotion. 
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and helps to lighten and brighten the skin naturally by simply blocking the signals to the melanocytes, so they never get the message to make more pigment!
Besides that it stimulates healthy collagen production, protects against sun damage, evens skin tone and hydrates all at the same time.
The product can be used twice a day for years and it will only make the skin more healthy and resilient.


For any questions or to book a consultation with me you can contact me through my Instagram page which is @Lauras_Lasers or call/text 403 991 1663

Home "Remedies" For Acne, Debunked!!

Apple Cider Vinegar.

This is the one I hear most often, so lets start off with the obvious...

All vinegar is very acidic, and while the skin is also acidic (healthy skin's pH should be about 4.5-5.5) this is taking it to the extreme.
The pH of vinegar sits around a 2 - 3 and not too far away from this is battery acid sitting comfortably at 1, I might add.

As I sit here reading all these ridiculous articles on the Internet on how apple cider vinegar will benefit acne, I can't help but roll my eyes and shake my head.

Things like "No need to buy professional acne creams, just use apple cider vinegar!" are legitimately making my eyes sore.

Yes, apple cider vinegar will kill bacteria but if you've read up on my other acne themed blogs you'll know that bacteria is not the problem.

Those with acne have a hypertrophic stratum corneum, or an extra thick layer of dead skin cells on the surface. These cells do not shed off regularly like those with normal, healthy skin.
These cells literally stick behind and come together with oil to form a clog. It isn't until this point that bacteria comes into play to feed off the excess oil.

So while it can be a good bonus if the products you're using kill bacteria, it shouldn't be the focus since most products aimed at killing off any living thing on your skin is going to be very strong, harsh, medicated and stripping.

The problem with products that strip the skin is by removing all the natural oil, you actually stimulate the oil glands to produce more! Which is bound to create more clogs.

Lastly vinegar being used on a regular basis will suck the hydration from the skin, creating tight, dry flaking skin that is more vulnerable to damage and environmental elements including bacteria.


...Next!!

Sugar Scrubs.

Just no. Any scrubs, but especially at home recipes that list mixing it into something like olive oil, will make acne worse!
The physical scrubbing and scraping of the skin creates microscopic lesions which induces a natural healing response, increasing inflammation. As if acne wasn't inflamed enough?!

The tiny granules of sugar, or any scrubbing agent picks up bacteria and spreads it across the face into open pores and follicles, worsening the problem.
Scrubs also strip the skin of any natural oil, increasing oil production and decreasing hydration.
If you add a thick heavy oil into the mix like olive oil for example, that is bound to sit on the surface of the skin and create more blockages as it will hinder any dead skill cells coming off, causing them to clog.


Crushed Aspirin.

First of all, Aspirin and salicylic acid are not the same thing. They do share similar chemical compounds since they are both made from the same willow bark, but you cannot simply crush up Aspirin tabs to create a salicylic acid peel at home.

The general idea of a mashed up Aspirin mask, or spot treatment is to help reduce inflammation. Most likely the inflammation caused by all these awful home remedy suggestions in the first place...insert dry laughter and knee slap here...

But seriously though, Aspirin tablets are made for oral ingestion not for topical use.
Using proper, professional products that are formulated, balanced, active, concentrated and packaged for topical use and skin therapy will take care of inflammation while treating acne, hydration levels and overall health.

And if you're looking for a salicylic acid peel, go see a  professional who can do it for you, properly. Peels for professional use are formulated to have a very specific pH to acid percentage ratio which indicates the strength and skin types they can be used on.


In conclusion, don't waste your time and money on home remedies floating around the Internet who could be written by anyone. They will leave your skin more damaged, and you more frustrated then when you started.

Leave it to those who understand the skin, how it functions and the professional high quality products that are made specifically for the skin.