Why suffering through a retinoid reaction just isn't worth it.

If you've tried your fair share of skin care products over the years you've probably tried out some sort of vitamin A during that time. Most people are familiar with vitamin A as retinol, even though retinol is only one of the many different forms of vitamin A.

If you've tried a high dose vitamin A from your doctor, you likely would've been given a 1% Tretonoin cream which is retinoic acid.
If you've gone the medical grade route and have used vitamin A products from clinics you've likely tried 1% retinol creams, and if you've gone to stores like Shoppers or Sephora it's likely been a lower dose such as .25-.5% retinol product.

No matter where you've got your vitamin A product in the past, you've likely been given the same instructions...start using it at night a couple times a week and slowly increase the frequency of use while pushing through any irritation it may cause such as peeling, flaking, dryness, burning and inflammation. Why? Because if you can tolerate this uncomfortable reaction for several weeks...perfect skin is waiting at the end!! Or so they say.

Once again I'm here to burst that bubble!!! What can I say? It's sort of like a hobby of mine.

So here's the problem with that concept....
Skin cell walls are not easily penetrated. Only certain chemicals with distinct shapes can enter through different receptors on the wall. Retinoid receptors are responsible for allowing vitamin A to enter into a cell. Since there are many forms of vitamin A, not all the receptors are meant for retinol.
Some receptors will only allow retinoic acid, or retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate...you get the idea.

Another problem here is that as we age we naturally lose vitamin A from our skin and things like smoking or UV exposure quicken this process. As our skin becomes depleted in vitamin A, it also becomes depleted in retinoid receptors.

Suddenly the skin is flooded with an incredibly high dose of retinol and it simply can't use it all. The skin cells absorb what it can but seeing as how retinol only makes up 3% of the vitamin A in the skin, the majority of it sits around the cells and causes massive irritation. The skin reacts by purging and results in the peeling, burning and dryness....a retinoid reaction!

The most unnecessary, pointless, painful and embarrassing thing to go through that I've ever come across in this industry. Yet everyone believes this is the way to perfect skin, but usually because they're only regurgitating information that was given to them by the sales rep of companies who make products like these. Not because they know how the skin actually functions and how it is affected by different chemical substances.

The end result if someone can actually tolerate an on going retinoid reaction for that long until the skin acclimatizes is usually sensitive skin that is thinner than before, and likely more dehydrated too.
The constant inflammation and peeling caused from a retinoid reaction opens the skin up to more environmental damage such as dehydration, pollution, bacteria and can leave the skin hyper sensitive and prone to redness.
More often than not however, the ongoing reaction is not tolerated long enough for the skin to acclimatize and the use of the product is discontinued with the final impression being that vitamin A is awful and doesn't work.

There are so many vitamin A products on the market and sadly few of them are sophisticated enough    to work with the skin instead of against it. This is why vitamin A has acquired such a bad name over the years and is now thought of as a very harsh product to use.

The truth is vitamin A is vital for the skin and has many positive benefits such as anti-aging, normalizing the function of the skin and even repairing DNA damage caused from UV exposure.
So why is something as important as vitamin A not being formulated in a smarter way?
Well it is, but like I said it can be hard to find amongst the sea of 1% rip your face off strength retinol creams.

Environ makes all their vitamin A products in a step-up system and use a complex of several different forms of vitamin A to utilize all the different receptors on the skin cells. This means more of the vitamin A is actually used by the skin, is tolerated much better and makes the skin stronger.
By starting on a low dose and moving on to the higher doses, the skin can acclimatize to levels normally by making more retinoid receptors over time and therefor use the vitamin A properly and in a way that does not cause severe reactions.

Who would've thought that formulating a product according to how the skin functions would be a good idea?!

This is the main reason I swear by Environ products. They're smart, high quality, high concentrated products that are made from a company that actually has respect for the skin.


To book a consultation with me...
Call LAB11 Advanced Medical Aesthetics ‭(403) 283-0764‬

Skin Lighteners and Brighteners vs Skin Bleachers....What's The Difference?

I can't stress enough how important it is to do your research before trusting your face to someone, but to questions any before and after photos you may come across too.

Whether it's results from treatment or skin care product, it's important to ask lots of questions...
"Is this treatment/product healthy for the skin?"
"How many treatments did it take to achieve this result?"
"How long was this product used for?"
"Can this product be used indefinitely without any negative side effects?"
"Were injectables like Botox or Dermal Fillers used along with this product or treatment?"

Just to list a few.

I personally see a lot of before and after photos floating around Instagram or Facebook showing the apparent "incredible results" on hyperpigmentation or Melasma from simply using topical products.
To be honest this always makes me cringe a little because I know that there are so many people out there seeing these pictures who don't know the difference between results that came from a healthy and respectable way of treating the skin, and results that came from the exact opposite kind of treatment.

I've always preached about healthy and sustainable ways to treat the skin since my goal is not to just make the problem go away, but instead treat the problem and find a great solution that also makes the skin stronger and healthier throughout the process.

When it comes to something like hyperpigmentation from sun exposure or discoloured marks left over from breakouts, or hormonal pigment like Melasma there are a few different topical options to choose from.

Lets start with my favourite (insert sarcastic eye roll here) ....bleaching agents!!
The most common is something called Hydroquinone or "HQ" for short. This is a chemical that has actually been banned in several countries due to the fact that it's a potential carcinogen to humans.
It's been proven to cause cancer in rats. Wonderful!
Hydroquinone works by essentially poisoning the pigment (melanin) producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.
It seems to "work" very quickly and often makes people very happy as a result, but hang on!
It comes with a catch.

When used for too long, the HQ can kill off melanocytes all together and once a melanocyte has died it does not regenerate. So, instead of hyperpigmentation, you're now left with permanent hypopigmentation which looks like white splotches in the skin.
If the use of the product is discontinued before this point (since you can't use it indefinitely) the damage done to the melanocytes is repaired and they kick into high gear with a vengeance!
The problem often comes back but far worse than it ever was in the first place.

This is not a healthy or sustainable option. End of story.

On the flip side skin lighteners and brighteners such as vitamin c, kojic acid, licorice root for example are technically known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is a nonessential amino acid made by the body which is a building block for several important neurotransmitters like epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine. In the skin it's responsible for communicating with the melanocytes, signaling them to make melanin.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root all work by blocking that signal to the melanocyte, therefor diminishing the production of melanin. This is not harmful to the skin whatsoever and can be used forever with only positive benefits!

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant which aids in sun protection, healthy collagen production and neutralizes free radicals.
Kojic acid has antimicrobial properties and licorice root is an anti-inflammatory, is also an antioxidant and helps to regulate oil production in the skin.
All great things!!

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Popular Misconceptions About Skin Care

It can shrink your pores!!


Nope. Our skin type is determined by our genes and the size of our pores, oil glands and amount of hair follicles we have is something we're born with.

No skin care out there can change any of these things. However, people will often notice their pores appearing larger than normal because they're skin is congested. This is usually caused by oil impactions in the pore which essentially cause them to widen and "stretch".

What skin care CAN do for this is help dissolve that oil so the pore can relax and return to it's normal size. Things like acids and enzymes work best as they gently dissolve surface debris such as dead skin cells which makes it easier for the oil to come out. When used regularly debris on the surface is kept to a minimum and so the acids or enzymes can get to work on the oil inside the pores too.

I never recommend any kind of "quick fix" such as extractions for example. Yes, the process will help to purge the skin but when not done correctly it can actually be very damaging for the skin.
Also when improper products are being used at home, the problem will just come right back.

Regular use of a chemical exfoliant will treat the congestion but also prevent it from happening in the future.


A facial cleanser should leave you "squeaky clean".

No!! This is probably the most common mistake people make with their skin care. A cleanser should not leave you feeling tight, dry or squeaky clean.
All that means is you've removed your natural oil barrier called your acid mantle from the surface. This barrier is created by the skin and is an oil/water film. It's purpose is to keep the skin clean, protected and hydrated.
When removed, the oil glands in the skin kick into hyper drive and produce far more oil than normal to replace what was lost.

Ever experienced that gradual oil build up during the day that leaves you feeling super greasy and itching to go home and cleanse again? Yup. You're stripping your skin and it's a vicious cycle!
In the long term this can lead to premature aging, dehydration and more.

It can easily be fixed however by switching to a gentle cleanser, possibly even a lotion/milk cleanser that does not foam. A cleanser does not have to foam up to clean your skin, by the way.
The job of a cleanser is to change the pH of the skin, allowing impurities to come out. That's it, and you don't need foam for that!


All natural/organic skin care that doesn't contain any preservatives is the best.

In this day and age when everything is full of weird chemicals, hormones or grown with pesticides it's very easy to understand why people tend to gravitate to the seemingly most healthy and clean products.
When it comes to skin care formulation however it's a bit of a different story. A lot goes in to making products for the skin that are effective, active, stable, long lasting and healthy.

Even the containers that hold the products are extremely important! For example....
Lets say you have an all natural preservative free vitamin C lotion that is packaged in a twist off lid style jar.

The first problem with this is vitamin C is actually a very difficult vitamin to keep stable in a formulation. Second the fact that the jar is opened up each and every time the product is used is only exposing the vitamin to oxygen and light, causing it to break down at a very fast rate.

At the most basic level, oxidation is the loss of electrons. Some elements are more easily oxidized than others, which is what I'm referring to when I say vitamin C is a particularly difficult vitamin to keep stable. A stable molecule would have an equal number of electrons, so when oxidation occurs and the balance of electrons is changed and becomes unbalance...you now have a free radical.


So that all natural, preservative free jar of vitamin C cream that you think is so healthy, quickly turns to a jar of free radicals especially when it's constantly exposed to light and oxygen. This process actually happens very quickly and may only take a couple days before most of the vitamin C is destroyed.

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What The Answer To These Simple Questions Can Reveal About Your Skin!!

People are often surprised at what kind of, and how many questions I ask them during their initial consultation with me.
I go over everything with a fine tooth comb so I can gather enough information to figure out what their skin type really is (and not just what they think it is), what their skin needs and isn't getting, what their skin doesn't need but may be getting anyways, how sensitive their skin may be and if it's a true sensitive skin type or if it's sensitivity that's being caused by vitamin deficiency.

There's so much to learn from asking very simple questions. Unfortunately a lot of my clients who have seen other skin care professionals/laser technicians in the past often tell me they've never been asked these questions before.

Of course, everyone in the industry has their own ways of doing what they do. For me this method has proven to be very successful in helping me identify what specific products someone needs and why. 
It's extremely rare that anyone who has started on a new skin care regimen with me has not been over the moon about how it changes the way their skin feels (usually within the first use) and how it looks and functions in the long term too.


So let me share just a couple of my secrets with all of you....

After learning what they're currently using, how often and in what order etc...

My first question usually refers to the cleanser.
"After you finish cleansing and pat your skin dry, before continuing to the next step...how does your skin feel?"

Nine times out of ten people say "tight and dry."This is important even if it's a mild feeling.
This means the cleanser is disrupting the natural moisture barrier of the skin called the "acid mantle."
The acid mantle is a oil/water film that is produced by the skin and acts as protection from dehydration, bacteria and damage from other environmental elements.

When disrupted or removed completely (you know that squeaky clean feeling?!) it actually stimulates the oil glands in the skin to produce more oil to replace what was lost.
Hence my next question...

"How does your skin feel around lunch time on your average day?"
Again usually the answer is "greasy" or "a little oily".

The oil glands are working over time! This is especially a big problem if someone is prone to breakouts or has acne.

"How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"
The response to this question is usually something like "I can't wait to get home, take my make up off and wash my face!"

Someone who experiences this would likely be an oily skin type.

These people tend to save the extra strong, foamy cleanser for the evening because they feel so much build up on their skin. Of course, that means the skin is being stripped once again...
It's a vicious cycle that can be fixed with simply changing the cleanser to something that does not foam and leaves the acid mantle intact.

That's why I love the Mild Cleansing Lotion and the Hydra-Intense Cleansing Lotion from Environ.
Neither of these cleansers foam therefor they leave the acid mantle intact and the skin comfortable. This actually calms down the oil glands and people usually notice their skin feels more balanced within the first use.

Next question if the person is using a toner is...
"Does the toner feel cooling on your skin?"

If yes, this is a sign that toner is actually more like an astringent and is full of alcohol that is going to suck the skin dry of any moisture. Not good!

A true toner balances the pH of the skin and should have something more to give rather than taking something away from the skin.
This is exactly why my first love from Environ was their Moisturizing Toner. After two weeks of daily use I was noticing my complexion evening out and my skin becoming brighter. I was hooked!

It of course balances the pH of the skin but it also has lactic acid to gently exfoliate and draw moisture (which is why it's appropriate for dry and sensitive skin types too) as well as botanicals and vitamins to calm and feed the skin.


Now, going back to that same question "How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"

Sometimes people are unsure how to respond because their skin feels oily on the surface or just in specific areas like the t-zone, but it also feels tight and dry underneath or in specific areas like the cheeks/chin. Their skin may even start to flake at this point. So they're unsure if they're an oily skin type or dry skin type!

Usually they go home, over cleanse to remove the excess oil and apply the thickest heaviest moisturizer they can find in an attempt to hydrate their skin. Again, another vicious circle.

Someone that experiences this would be a dry skin type, or at least prone to dryness. Since their cleanser is stripping the acid mantle from their skin it is now open to dehydration.

In Calgary we have a dry atmosphere (just in case you didn't already know that!) and what happens now is called Transepidermal Water Loss, or "TEWL" for short.
This is the process where water molecules from the skin are evaporated into the surrounding atmosphere, causing dehydration.

Again, a problem that can easily be fixed with changing over to the correct products that would keep the acid mantle intact, draw moisture and penetrate the skin to properly hydrate.
That thick heavy night cream is only going to sit on the surface and give the feeling of relief while the product is on. Once it's washed off your skin is back to square one.

A serum is actually better at correcting dryness since it has a much thinner viscosity and when formulated properly, can actually go inside the skin to help fix the problem instead of just masking it.

That's just one of the many, many reasons I love the C-Quence Serum from Environ. It absorbs so quickly and feels so light, yet it's so powerful...and becomes even more powerful as you move onto the higher levels! It's a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to feed, nourish and correct the skin.

If someone has a true dry skin type and finds the serum isn't enough in terms of moisture, that's where the C-Quence Crème would come in! The Crème can be applied on top of the serum to not only provide additional moisture but also boost the levels of antioxidants and peptides for a potent anti-aging effect.


So as you can see, just a couple simple questions can actually reveal a lot about someone's skin!




To book a complimentary consultation with me to talk about Environ or anything else...

Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
Instagram: @lauras_lasers

What's The Difference Between Hot Sculpting and Cool Sculpting?

Since I've performed both of these treatments on other people, and have had both done on myself I think I'm in a pretty good position to clarify what the main differences are!

What is it?

Cool Sculpting is a machine that uses intense suction to draw tissue into an applicator which has cooling plates inside. Depending on the applicator the tissue is frozen for 35 to 60 minutes.
Afterwards the applicator is removed and the frozen tissue is kneaded out by the technician preforming the treatment. This helps to kill more fat cells for a better result.

Hot Sculpting is a non-invasive laser that is used to bring the temperature of the chosen area up to 40 degrees. Once this temperature is reached, it is maintained for ten minutes to achieve fat cell death.

What does it treat?

Cool Sculpting is meant for moderately sized pockets of fat but can also treat large areas such as a "spare tire" around the mid-section. Treatment areas are limited as the different applicators are made to fit very specific areas of the body.

Hot Sculpting is meant for smaller areas of stubborn fat, but can be used nearly anywhere on the body. The hand piece never even touches the skin, so it's much more versatile.


How many treatments are needed?

Cool Sculpting: For someone within their ideal BMI, one to two treatments usually does the trick.
Those who are heavier or have larger areas like the spare tire I mentioned, two or more may be needed. Treatments can be repeated 6-8 weeks apart.

Hot Sculpting: Five treatments are needed for any area. Treatments can be done as soon as every seven days.

Does it hurt?

Cool Sculpting: From my experience treating people and also being treated myself I can say with confidence that yes, it absolutely does hurt.
The process of the applicator going on with so much suction feels quite intense and when the cooling plates are turned on (before eventually going numb) there can be a strong stinging sensation.

Afterwards when the applicator is taken off, the frozen tissue begins to thaw and the technician starts their two minute kneading massage...that's the part that sends most people over the edge.

For myself, it was hands down the most painful body treatment I've ever had and brought me to tears every single time. Spending years treating people as a technician, I have to say no other treatment I've ever done caused so many people to faint or even vomit. It is not for the faint of heart!!

Hot Sculpting: From my experience treating people, some do say it causes a deep aching sensation after the ideal 40 degree temperature is reached.
From my experience treating myself, I have to say it was actually quite nice! It was warm and relaxing and I did not experience any kind of pain at all.

Is there downtime?

Cool Sculpting: There is no real downtime after the treatment however most people would be quite swollen, bruised and tender for anywhere from a couple days up to a couple weeks.
So things like going to the gym or doing anything overly physical were out.

The first time I had the treatment done I was horribly swollen and extremely sore to the point where I wore a tight tensor bandage around my abdomen for 5 days and 5 nights to keep me relatively comfortable.

Hot Sculpting: Zero downtime, no swelling, bruising or pain afterwards. Everyone can go right back to their normal routine.

How long do the results take?

Both Cool Sculpting and Hot Sculpting take 12 weeks after the last treatment to see the full effect. Both treatments kill fat cells right away, but it takes the body 3 months to flush out all the dead fat cells.

How long do the results last?

Both Cool Sculpting and Hot Sculpting are permanent.
The number of fat cells in ones body is set by the early 20's. When we gain weight, the fat cells expand and when we lose weight the fat cells shrink. We will always have the same number of cells unless we remove them with something like liposuction, or a non-invasive alternative.

How much does it cost?

Cool Sculpting prices are set by the company that makes the product, therefor you will not find that clinics offer competitive pricing.
It starts at $750 per applicator and goes down from there depending on how many you purchase at once. It's only clients with a lot of excess fat tissue (therefor needing more treatments) that get any significant discounts applied.

Hot Sculpting prices are controlled by the clinics and not the company who makes the laser, so prices may vary. Here Facial Esthetics One each treatment costs $549 per area or all five can be purchased at once to receive 20% off which is the same as getting the 5th one for free which is definitely some of the lowest pricing in the city.



To book a consultation with me for Hot Sculpting or anything else...
Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
IG: @lauras_lasers

What Makes Lasers Different From One Another?

I'm a big believer in doing your research before jumping into a treatment chair, not only on the person who's treating you but the equipment being used as well.

Problem is with so many different kinds of lasers and different brands that make them, it can be really overwhelming.

Without getting too far into it I'm going to break down what makes one laser different from another and why there's no such thing as "the best one."

A laser is a concentrated beam of energy (photons) that contains a single wavelength.
Think of a hand held laser pen. This makes it different than light which contains multiple wavelengths and is diffused and scattered energy (photons). Think of a light bulb.

To start, only the non-ionizing spectrum of energy is used in medical aesthetic devices.
This means the energy does not cause cellular mutations like x-ray or UV rays can, for example.
All the wavelengths used are safe and do not cause cancer, which is a concern many people have.

See image of light spectrum below:

















So for this article I'll be focusing on the non-ionizing wavelengths.

A wavelength is a measurement of the distance between two peaks in a wave of light energy and this distance is measure in nanometers (nm).

This is what makes lasers different from one another...but hang on it's not quite that simple.

Different wavelengths not only penetrate into tissue at different depths (see image below), but what they absorb into best varies from one another too. In medical aesthetics you have three main targets (chromophores) that you'd want a laser to absorb into.

Those three things are water, hemoglobin (in blood) and melanin (or other pigment such as tattoo ink). Some wavelengths "like" certain targets more than others.


Depth of penetration by wavelength:

For example a 755nm wavelength likes pigment and due to the depth of penetration the energy has into tissue it's used to treat sun spots, tattoos and hair removal since all these things have melanin or man made pigment.

Make sense?

Another example would be a 1064nm wavelength which penetrates so far into tissue it can reach the fat or subcutaneous layer. This wavelength absorbs into water and hemoglobin nicely and is what I use to treat leg and facial veins.

So choosing which wavelength is best depends on the target or chromophore you're treating, and where it is in the tissue. That's why there's no single best wavelength. They all behave very differently.

Then there's ablative or non-ablative wavelengths. Ablative meaning to remove tissue.
To do skin resurfacing for anti-aging or for acne scars you'd need to use an ablative wavelength like a CO2 laser or an Erbium YAG laser. Again, even though they can both be ablative they're actually still very different.

So now you may be wondering how to produce different wavelengths in the first place.
It's pretty cool actually!

Inside each laser there is an "Active Laser Medium" and this is what's used to amplify the power of the photons, which is what all light is made up of.
Depending on the medium, the photons come out as different wavelengths.

Different types of active laser mediums fall into three different categories...solid, liquid and gas.

An example of a solid state laser would be the 1064nm Nd YAG where neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet is used to produce this specific wavelength.
Neodymium is a metal and Yttrium Aluminium Garnet is a crystal.

An example of a liquid state laser would be a 600nm Pulse Dye Laser where an organic dye is used as the active laser medium.

And an example of a gas state laser would be a 10,600nm CO2 laser.
CO2 gas inside the laser is used as the active laser medium.

Told you it was pretty cool!

This is why it's incredibly difficult for people to do their own homework on what laser is best for their specific concern.
What I've explained here is just the tip of the iceberg and if you don't understand laser and light physics and the interaction is has with tissue, it's pretty much impossible to figure it out on your own.

This is also why I stress the need for people to do their research on the person behind the lasers, the technician. The technician has to have a solid understanding of this and so much more to decipher what will be best for each individual and give safe, effective treatments.



To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com

The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging

Balance:

This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
 By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.

I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.

As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.

A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.

My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.



Nourish:

A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!

Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.

Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.

This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.



Protect:

Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.

It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.

So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.



 Stimulate:

As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.

It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.

Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.

Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.

The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!

Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.

By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!

A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!

In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.

That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start  there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.

The Link Between Dairy and Acne

I get a lot of questions about how the diet impacts the skin. It actually varies quite a lot from person to person depending on how sensitive the skin, and certain skin conditions are to possible food triggers.

While some people can't seem to sneak any sort of junk food like chocolate or other sweets without suffering the consequences, others show no reaction at all.

One link between diary and acne however is a little more clear. It's been proven that often those who struggle with acne also have some level of insulin resistance.

Insulin resistance is a condition where the body doesn't respond to normal levels of the hormone being release in the blood stream post sugar spike. The pancreas continues to release more and more until, finally sugar levels are normalised.
The problem is now there's all this additional insulin hanging out that needs to be dealt with.
So the hormone is then processed very similarly to a male hormone, which has a direct stimulating effect on the sebaceous, or oil glands in the skin. More oil usually means more breakouts.

But what does insulin have to do with dairy? Typically when we think of a sugar spike we think of chocolate, candy or alcohol, right?
Well lactose is the natural sugar found in dairy products and contributes to sugar spikes. Along with added processed sugar like in ice cream, yogurt or chocolate it's suddenly an extra hit on the system.

Dairy also contains natural hormones, since cows milk is made to make small calves grow, and fast I might add. Dairy contains growth hormones no matter where it comes from.

Yes, in Canada we have dairy products that do not contain ADDED hormones and that's great...but don't let that make you think the diary we consume is hormone free.

These hormones get processed in the human body similarly to how we process our own natural growth hormones when we're growing ourselves. In children who already have a ton of their own natural growth hormones surging through them, now you've added in some extra, and for what? Good measure? In adults who are fully grown, well...you see where I'm going with this.

These hormones are also processed in the system similar to a male hormone, again, having a direct stimulating effect on the oil glands. As if they weren't working hard enough already, am I right?

The result is excessively oily, clogged and inflamed skin.

Medical tests are available to see if you may be someone struggling with insulin resistance however, an easy way to see if you're sensitive to the effects of dairy in general would be cutting it out for at least 2 weeks, if not 3.
Reintroduce one serving of dairy like a glass of milk or cup of yogurt and wait another 72 hours.

If you end up having a flare up in your acne, or notice your skin is more oily during those days it may be best to cut out dairy all together, or at least minimize your overall intake.

Of course, I have to say that I am a Laser Technician and Skin Health Therapist. So, if you're going to make any radical changes to your diet please talk to your doctor or nutritionist before doing so.

Striving For A Higher Standard

These days it seems like everyone and their dog is a skin care expert, it can be confusing to know how to decipher the real information and the trending now, gimmicky kind of information...i.e. 24K gold, collagen, Himalayan salt, coconut oil, and charcoal ingredients that all promise to transform your skin.

 

First off, many people will be surprised to learn that to be a skin care professional there are no requirements or standards set in place. Not even in spas or medi-spas, and of course anyone on the planet (and who knows, maybe even seriously their dog!?) can sign up and start selling skin care from pyramid type companies.

 

Without needing to write an entire separate blog, we’ll just say that the skin is an organ. The largest organ of the body, and just like any other organ it needs proper nutrition to be healthy.

The cells in the skin are growing and dividing constantly, just like all the cells in the rest of the human body. These cells need vitamins and minerals to function normally. When you come across new, trendy skin care you might want to approach with some healthy skepticism.

 

Skin care that provides high quality vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, peptides and hydration are products that will feed, and change the skin. These types of products are placed in a separate category all together, called cosmeceuticals. They are highly concentrated, active products that are only sold through spas or clinics with trained professionals.

 

Even more terrifying, the same goes for the laser and light industry. No requirements, no standards, nothing needed to get behind a laser and start treating people. That being said, it’s always important to do your homework when you’re choosing to hand over not just your money, but your face to someone.

 

Many clinics and spas choose to set higher standards and will only hire estheticians or laser technicians who have gone to school and have experience in the industry.

Some clinics and spas however, do not. So the onus is on the client to research, and to even simply ask what kind of education their esthetician or technician has and what the hiring policies of the establishment may be.

 

While getting bad skin care advice may not be the end of the world as it may only turn out to be a waste of money and dissapointment in the lack of results, a bad laser or light treatment can be far more costly.

Burns, infections, scarring, permanent pigmentation and eye damage are just a few of the complications that can arise from a treatment gone bad.

 

Of course, this article is not meant to instill fear in those who are looking into laser or light treatments. After all when done properly, the results can truly be amazing and well worth the investment.

 

However it’s important to know that these treatments don’t just involve a point and shoot method. Laser and light physics and the interaction this energy has with tissue is a science and something that needs to be well understood by those delivering treatments.

Be diligent, don’t trust blindly and do your homework!