What Makes Lasers Different From One Another?

I'm a big believer in doing your research before jumping into a treatment chair, not only on the person who's treating you but the equipment being used as well.

Problem is with so many different kinds of lasers and different brands that make them, it can be really overwhelming.

Without getting too far into it I'm going to break down what makes one laser different from another and why there's no such thing as "the best one."

A laser is a concentrated beam of energy (photons) that contains a single wavelength.
Think of a hand held laser pen. This makes it different than light which contains multiple wavelengths and is diffused and scattered energy (photons). Think of a light bulb.

To start, only the non-ionizing spectrum of energy is used in medical aesthetic devices.
This means the energy does not cause cellular mutations like x-ray or UV rays can, for example.
All the wavelengths used are safe and do not cause cancer, which is a concern many people have.

See image of light spectrum below:

















So for this article I'll be focusing on the non-ionizing wavelengths.

A wavelength is a measurement of the distance between two peaks in a wave of light energy and this distance is measure in nanometers (nm).

This is what makes lasers different from one another...but hang on it's not quite that simple.

Different wavelengths not only penetrate into tissue at different depths (see image below), but what they absorb into best varies from one another too. In medical aesthetics you have three main targets (chromophores) that you'd want a laser to absorb into.

Those three things are water, hemoglobin (in blood) and melanin (or other pigment such as tattoo ink). Some wavelengths "like" certain targets more than others.


Depth of penetration by wavelength:

For example a 755nm wavelength likes pigment and due to the depth of penetration the energy has into tissue it's used to treat sun spots, tattoos and hair removal since all these things have melanin or man made pigment.

Make sense?

Another example would be a 1064nm wavelength which penetrates so far into tissue it can reach the fat or subcutaneous layer. This wavelength absorbs into water and hemoglobin nicely and is what I use to treat leg and facial veins.

So choosing which wavelength is best depends on the target or chromophore you're treating, and where it is in the tissue. That's why there's no single best wavelength. They all behave very differently.

Then there's ablative or non-ablative wavelengths. Ablative meaning to remove tissue.
To do skin resurfacing for anti-aging or for acne scars you'd need to use an ablative wavelength like a CO2 laser or an Erbium YAG laser. Again, even though they can both be ablative they're actually still very different.

So now you may be wondering how to produce different wavelengths in the first place.
It's pretty cool actually!

Inside each laser there is an "Active Laser Medium" and this is what's used to amplify the power of the photons, which is what all light is made up of.
Depending on the medium, the photons come out as different wavelengths.

Different types of active laser mediums fall into three different categories...solid, liquid and gas.

An example of a solid state laser would be the 1064nm Nd YAG where neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet is used to produce this specific wavelength.
Neodymium is a metal and Yttrium Aluminium Garnet is a crystal.

An example of a liquid state laser would be a 600nm Pulse Dye Laser where an organic dye is used as the active laser medium.

And an example of a gas state laser would be a 10,600nm CO2 laser.
CO2 gas inside the laser is used as the active laser medium.

Told you it was pretty cool!

This is why it's incredibly difficult for people to do their own homework on what laser is best for their specific concern.
What I've explained here is just the tip of the iceberg and if you don't understand laser and light physics and the interaction is has with tissue, it's pretty much impossible to figure it out on your own.

This is also why I stress the need for people to do their research on the person behind the lasers, the technician. The technician has to have a solid understanding of this and so much more to decipher what will be best for each individual and give safe, effective treatments.



To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com

The Plateau Effect Explained

Ever wondered why some skin care seems great at first, but then just stops working for you after a while?

I come across this a lot during consultations with clients where I ask what line they're currently on. A lot of people will say "Well I'm using this (insert name here) brand and I actually really liked it at first, but now my skin has gone back to the way it was before. It's frustrating, nothing seems to work for me in the long term."

Some people get so fed up they stop using skin care all together and go back to plain old water and moisturizer while all the ghosts of their skin care past take up the space under their bathroom sink.
You're even picturing the exact cupboard all your old skin care is sitting in and collecting dust right now, aren't you?

It's alright...we've all done it, and we all have that cupboard!

No, you're not just imagining the lack of results. The skin plateaus since the skin care being used isn't made to progress the skin any further.

It's sort of like if you started a workout routine at the gym...10 minutes of cardio and 30 minutes of light weights...but did only that for the next 5 years.
Sure, you might notice an improvement in your fitness or muscle tone at first but without progressing to a more intense program to fit your new and improved level of fitness, you're never going to see anything more.

It's the same idea with your skin.
Most of us know there are 2 main layers to the skin. The dermis and epidermis. What you may not know is there are even more layers within these.
The epidermis is actually made up of 5 different layers and contrary to popular belief, it is very much alive. The only layer of the epidermis that is dead is the very top layer called the Stratum Corneum.

The dermis is made up of 2 different layers and is just above the layer of fat tissue, or subcutaneous tissue.

So without getting too far into the anatomy of the skin, my point is the skin is alive and is our barrier to the outside world. Beyond that it has many more jobs like heat regulation, sensation, secretion, excretion and absorption.

To do all those things properly it needs to be nourished, like any other part of our body does.
The skin needs vitamins, antioxidants and peptides (just to name a few) to function at its best.

But if you only ever feed your skin the same concentration/dosage of these things, it will never continue to improve. You will always plateau.
This is why so many people bounce around from one line to another. They're desperately trying to find something new to keep the results going, but unfortunately this chase usually ends in frustration and in money not-so-well spent.

Enter Environ!!!!

This is one of the reasons Environ has their unique step-up system.
They make different concentrations of their corrective serums and moisturizers to keep the improvements going and going.

Using the Youth-EssentiA C-Quence Serums (my all time favourite) as an example...you start on level 1 and it goes all the way up to 5.
Each serum lasts about three months so the skin has time to adjust to the dosage, improve, become stronger and repeat with each step up! This way you're constantly seeing positive changes.

...and I know what you're thinking, "What about when you get to level 5? Won't you just plateau at that point?"

NOOOO! That's the wonderful, amazing, ingeniousness that is Environ!!

Once you move up to the higher levels in the serums, you can start to add in Retinol (which also comes in two different levels) to further improve.

Now this is where it gets sort of tricky.

Since one of the very important jobs of the skin is to be our protection and barrier...when you make it stronger through vitamin therapy like this, it naturally becomes increasingly difficult for the vitamins and other nourishment in topical products to penetrate into the skin where it needs to be.

This is where cosmetic needling comes in!
I know, sounds sort of scary right? I promise it's really not!!

Environ makes a cosmetic needling device that you use at home for this very reason. Now that the skin has become so resilient and strong, we need to find a way to continue getting all the nourishment in the right place.

Imagine a miniature paint roller, except on the rolling head you have 0.1mm tiny needles.
They're only big enough to open microscopic pathways in the superficial layers of the skin so all the active ingredients applied afterwards, can get inside!

Even looking at the roller up close in person, it can be difficult to see the tiny needles at all. It sort of feels scratchy on the skin and can leave the face a little flushed for a few minutes afterwards, but that's only due to drawing extra blood flow to the area.
In case you're wondering, no! It does not cause any pin point bleeding at all! You'd have to use a roller with needles about 1mm in length to make that happen (just to give you a comparison).


In conclusion, that solves the on going mystery of why the initial improvement from typical skin care never seems to last. It's just not made to do anything more.

So, maybe it's time to switch over to something that will actually work for you in the long term and won't ever leave you feeling disappointed!!

Just sayin'!


To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email at lauraslasers@gmail.com

Home "Remedies" For Acne, Debunked!!

Apple Cider Vinegar.

This is the one I hear most often, so lets start off with the obvious...

All vinegar is very acidic, and while the skin is also acidic (healthy skin's pH should be about 4.5-5.5) this is taking it to the extreme.
The pH of vinegar sits around a 2 - 3 and not too far away from this is battery acid sitting comfortably at 1, I might add.

As I sit here reading all these ridiculous articles on the Internet on how apple cider vinegar will benefit acne, I can't help but roll my eyes and shake my head.

Things like "No need to buy professional acne creams, just use apple cider vinegar!" are legitimately making my eyes sore.

Yes, apple cider vinegar will kill bacteria but if you've read up on my other acne themed blogs you'll know that bacteria is not the problem.

Those with acne have a hypertrophic stratum corneum, or an extra thick layer of dead skin cells on the surface. These cells do not shed off regularly like those with normal, healthy skin.
These cells literally stick behind and come together with oil to form a clog. It isn't until this point that bacteria comes into play to feed off the excess oil.

So while it can be a good bonus if the products you're using kill bacteria, it shouldn't be the focus since most products aimed at killing off any living thing on your skin is going to be very strong, harsh, medicated and stripping.

The problem with products that strip the skin is by removing all the natural oil, you actually stimulate the oil glands to produce more! Which is bound to create more clogs.

Lastly vinegar being used on a regular basis will suck the hydration from the skin, creating tight, dry flaking skin that is more vulnerable to damage and environmental elements including bacteria.


...Next!!

Sugar Scrubs.

Just no. Any scrubs, but especially at home recipes that list mixing it into something like olive oil, will make acne worse!
The physical scrubbing and scraping of the skin creates microscopic lesions which induces a natural healing response, increasing inflammation. As if acne wasn't inflamed enough?!

The tiny granules of sugar, or any scrubbing agent picks up bacteria and spreads it across the face into open pores and follicles, worsening the problem.
Scrubs also strip the skin of any natural oil, increasing oil production and decreasing hydration.
If you add a thick heavy oil into the mix like olive oil for example, that is bound to sit on the surface of the skin and create more blockages as it will hinder any dead skill cells coming off, causing them to clog.


Crushed Aspirin.

First of all, Aspirin and salicylic acid are not the same thing. They do share similar chemical compounds since they are both made from the same willow bark, but you cannot simply crush up Aspirin tabs to create a salicylic acid peel at home.

The general idea of a mashed up Aspirin mask, or spot treatment is to help reduce inflammation. Most likely the inflammation caused by all these awful home remedy suggestions in the first place...insert dry laughter and knee slap here...

But seriously though, Aspirin tablets are made for oral ingestion not for topical use.
Using proper, professional products that are formulated, balanced, active, concentrated and packaged for topical use and skin therapy will take care of inflammation while treating acne, hydration levels and overall health.

And if you're looking for a salicylic acid peel, go see a  professional who can do it for you, properly. Peels for professional use are formulated to have a very specific pH to acid percentage ratio which indicates the strength and skin types they can be used on.


In conclusion, don't waste your time and money on home remedies floating around the Internet who could be written by anyone. They will leave your skin more damaged, and you more frustrated then when you started.

Leave it to those who understand the skin, how it functions and the professional high quality products that are made specifically for the skin.

A Beautiful Neck For A Lifetime

The skin on the neck is some of the thinnest on the entire body which means it’s more susceptible to premature aging.

Here are some tips on how to maintain a beautiful youthful neck for years to come...

 

#1: Prevent.

The first step is always prevention. To correct any damage that’s been done to the skin or maintain what you already have, you need to prevent further damage from happening in the first place. In this case that means wearing a high quality SPF daily! Nothing will ruin your skin faster than UV rays as they break down collagen and elastin fibers which is what keeps your skin plump, firm and youthful.

An SPF of about 30 is recommended for day to day use. When it comes to sunscreens you actually have the choice of two different types.

  

Chemical sunscreens contain...you guessed it! Chemicals that absorb into the skin and neutralize UV rays. To do this however the chemicals must go through a process that leads to them breaking down in the skin. This raises some controversy over the safety of these types of sunscreens. Some of the most common chemicals you’ll see listed in the medical ingredients section of sunscreens are oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene.

 

Physical sunscreens contain minerals like Titanium Dioxide and/or Zinc Oxide and these work by simply sitting on the surface of the skin and reflecting UV light. No chemicals, no interaction with the skin.

  

Our preferred sunscreen is from Environ, it is a physical sunscreen with an SPF of 25. The size of a large pea covers the entire face so it lasts forever, it’s non- greasy and will not cause breakouts!

 

#2: Equal Treatment.  

Treating your neck how you treat the rest of your face may sound simple but most of us don’t use our cleanser all the way down our neck, and we might even think using up our toners or moisturizers on the area is a waste.

 

Since your neck has thinner skin than your face it will age faster, so actually your neck needs just as much, if not more TLC than your face does! When you cleanse, tone or moisturize your face make sure to include your full neck! If you don’t, your face may look younger than you actually are but your neck is bound to give away your age in a heart beat!

 

#3: Exfoliate.

When we’re in our 20’s our skin renews itself about every 28 days meaning new skin cells are created in the lowest layers of our skin and the old, dried up dead surface cells flake off. In our 30’s this process slows down to every 40-50 days, in our 50’s and 60’s it can be as slow as every 2 months or more!

This gradual slowing of skin cell renewal is one of the many major changes, and challenges as our skin continues to age.

  

Without proper exfoliation our skin is left look dull, grey-ish, textured and unhealthy. There’s two different ways to exfoliate.

Mechanical exfoliation involves scraping of the skin to force off dead surface cells. The problem with this is it can be extremely irritating to the skin when done regularly, as a result it will increase inflammation in the skin. In the long run it can also cause the skin to thin out and be more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Chemical exfoliation involves acids or enzymes like Lactic or Glycolic acid which come from milk and sugar cane. Enzymes such as Bromelain from pineapple is a more gentle option and great for super sensitive and reactive skin types.

 

The acids or enzymes dissolve dead surface cells and stimulate the skin underneath to reproduce faster. It’s a wonderful way to produce a gorgeous dewy glow! All while being far more gentle in comparison to harsh daily scrubs which, the skin on the neck wouldn’t be able to tolerate for very long anyways due to this area being very thin skinned.

Moisturizers VS Hydrators

Moisturizers are products that contain things like oils, silicones, glycerin, or petroleum that coat the surface of the skin, giving a feeling of relief from dryness.

The problem is the sense of relief is temporary and often these products can initially feel good after application, but as the day goes on there can be a buildup of oil on the surface and the tight uncomfortable feeling can return underneath.

 

Once the product has been removed after cleansing, the skin returns to feel parched and tight.

To really correct moisture levels in the skin requires a product that can penetrate and draw moisture inside. This is what separates moisturizers from hydrators. Hydrators contain things like Hyaluronic Acid, which is famous for its water holding capabilities. A single molecule of HA can hold 1,000x its weight in water!

 

When formulated correctly with the appropriate molecular weight, the HA should be able to penetrate the skin deeply, attract water and hold it there. Correcting dryness, and not just masking it. This means the skin will feel better hydrated even when the product is not being used.

Those who struggle with dryness may be those who live in a dry climate (hello Calgary!) and even those on Accutane which sucks the skin dry of any natural oils and moisture, resulting in severe dryness and even cracked, sore skin.

 

For a proper hydrator that’s up for the job, we recommend Teoxane products. Teoxane was first developed in Switzerland and is formulated with a low molecular weight, high quality HA capable of sufficient penetration and correction.

Laser Vein Therapy Q&A

How:

Laser Vein Therapy works by administering enough heat energy to coagulate the blood on the inside of damaged veins and capillaries without damaging surrounding tissues. The result is the vessel collapses and flattens, minimizing the appearance or destroying the vessel all together. This is all done non-invasivly, no needles and no downtime.

 

Normal, healthy vessels have valves inside of them that open and close to allow for proper blood flow in one direction. Vessels that appear on the surface are damaged from faulty valves which allow blood to flow backwards, stretching, bulging and twisting them.

 

These vessels are not needed by the body for adequate blood flow. Once the laser has successfully destroyed them, blood flow is simply rerouted to healthy surrounding vessels.

On average, three treatments are recommended for ideal and long lasting results. Results are usually seen after the first treatment.

 

What:

Laser Vein Therapy works on spider veins which are the small, red to purple colored veins that are often found in the face or legs. It is also effective on larger veins such as reticular veins around the eyes, temples and legs. These veins are blue to green in color and can appear twisted and slightly swollen.

Laser Vein Therapy is not appropriate to treat varicose veins which are large, deep leg veins that cause pain and throbbing.

 

Why:

Genetics play a big role in why vessels become damaged in the first place but certain life style factors can contribute to the problem such as sun exposure, alcohol, high blood pressure, temperature extremes, harsh skin care products, habitual crossing of the legs and long periods of time spent standing or sitting.

Melasma

Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.

 

It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.

  

However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.

 

If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.

 

Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.

 

At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.

 

Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.

There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.

 

A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.

These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.

 

As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.

 

Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.

 

Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.

I'm Giving You Permission to Play The Field!

When it comes to medical aesthetics and skin health, there’s no need to stay faithful to only one treatment option. In fact, it’s better in the long term to dip your toe into a variety of treatments for the best possible effect.

 

Take injectables for example, neurotoxins and fillers can give you an immediate result and can last a long time. Fillers can do what nothing else can, replace lost volume in the face to restore a youthful appearance. They can augment the lips or nose without surgery or downtime.

 

On the other hand neurotoxins like Botox are the only options to relax muscles to minimize and prevent lines and wrinkles caused by expression. All fantastic things, right?

But if this is the only method of antiaging you’re exploring, you’re missing out on increasing your skins quality and health.

 

After years of only having injectables, you may maintain the volume and diminish excessive lines in the face, but you could compare this to renovating the inside of an old house with luxurious upgrades like hardwood, marble and brand new paint but leaving the outside completely untouched.

It just doesn’t make sense to put all your effort and money into improving the inside of the house when the outside remains weathered, outdated and rundown.

 

The same goes for your skin.

 

To improve the natural quality of your skin you need to nourish it, stimulate it and protect it by using an appropriate and structured skin care routine. In clinic treatments like laser and light can boost collagen production, to tighten and tone or remove damage such as scars, lines and pigmentation.

This can often result in less filler and Botox being required, so along with exploring injectables and touching up when needed, results tend to be much more natural and will last much longer than injectables alone.

 

So go ahead, see what else is out there!

3 Reasons to Break Up With Your Facial Scrub

At first you may ask yourself “where has this product been all my life??” since like with most new relationships, it seems exciting and fruitful. In the beginning your scrub may seem to deliver instantly soft, smooth skin and before you know it you’re hooked!

 

You find yourself scrubbing nearly every day and you can’t picture ever wanting to give it up. But unfortunately, we have some bad news…your scrub is actually hiding some nasty secrets from you.

 

1. Inflammation

If you were to look at a facial scrub under a microscope most of them would look like jagged, uneven, rough grains of sand. When rubbed across the skin these grains cause microscopic lesions and damage to the surface of the skin. As a result the skin automatically goes into a state of repair which leads to inflammation. When done on a regular basis you’ll actually find your skin can become quite sensitive and prone to redness and other irritation. That’s because it’s inflamed and constantly in a state of healing.

 

2. Thinning

As we get older our skin, like all the cells in our body, reproduce as a slower rate. This means it takes longer for our skin to make new cells than it did when we were younger. In our 20’s it can renew as often as every 28 days, and in our 30’s, 40’s 50’s and on it can slow down to as little as every 55-75 days or even longer! Now you add in a constant exfoliant like a scrub into the mix and you’re wearing down your skin before it even has time to renew. The result is thinning skin which is more prone to premature aging.

 

3. Bacteria and Oil

Not only do the scrubby beads in these types of product pick up and spread pre-existing bacteria (which is an exceptionally bad idea if you have acne) but it also strips the natural water/oil barrier on the surface of the skin called the “acid mantle”. This barrier keeps the skin protected from environmental elements including bacteria , and it keeps the skin moisturized and clean. When this barrier is removed the skin is prone to more damage and as a response the oil glands kick into hyper-drive to produce much more oil than normal to replace what was stripped away. The result is a vicious circle of stripped vulnerable skin, and excessive oily skin.

Now What?

Of course, we do need to exfoliate so you may be wondering what to do. Chemical exfoliation will be your knight in shining armor to save you from the nightmare that is facial scrubbing. Chemical exfoliation involves the use of gentle enzymes or acids to dissolve dead skin cells, excess oil and to kill bacteria.

It will show your skin so much love that it will in fact speed up how fast your skin renews itself, which will give you a healthy dewy youthful glow. It will thicken your skin over time and help to lift pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores and smooth your skins texture.

 

So what are you waiting for? Tell your scrub to take a hike and get ready for the best relationship of your life!!

The Miracle of Collagen Creams! ...Not.

We’ve all seen them…beautifully packaged and yummy smelling body or face lotions (that can also come with a serious price tag!) that promise firmer, younger looking skin. The secret ingredient? Collagen of course!

 

Collagen is the sexy protein fiber in the skin that gives it structure, firmness and therefor youthfulness! The younger you are, the more of it you’ll have! Due to natural aging, sun exposure, diet and other factors we lose collagen as we age (about 1-2% each year), so doesn’t it make sense to start applying it on our skin every day to stay looking young forever?

 

Well…no.

 

I have to give it to the skincare companies marketing angles, I mean it works right? We see the word collagen and immediately think “Anti-aging in a bottle! I must have it!”

 

The sad reality is this is just a great way to sell products. Similar to other gimmicky ingredients like activated charcoal, 24 karat gold, Australian clay, Co-Enzyme Q10, Himalayan salt, algae, fish caviar extract, plant stem cells, coconut oil, snail mucus…please, someone stop me. I can’t even.

 

There are simply too many of these ingredients to name but they all serve the very same purpose, to sell sell sell! And unfortunately your skin doesn’t actually benefit much. The size of a collagen molecule is huge when you’re talking about a substances ability to penetrate into the skin, which is meant to keep things out! It would be like trying to get a whole cucumber to fit through a spaghetti strainer, it just ain’t happening.

 

Why don’t we just say, for fun, that collagen could penetrate into the skin. Skin care products don’t contain human collagen; they typically contain bovine (cow) or fish collagen. Okay, so now we have a different species collagen in our skin. What is it going to do? Is it going to magically intertwine with our own collagen to give us more?? Nope! Even if it was human collagen it still doesn’t work that way.

 

Collagen is produced in the skin by cells called fibroblasts. Fibroblasts need nourishment such vitamin A, C and peptides to make lots of healthy collagen and elastin. Peptides are chains of amino acids and are specifically formulated into skin care to stimulate collagen production. Laser and light treatments will also stimulate healthy collagen production as this is your skins way of healing, by producing collagen.

 

Therefore, if you’re going to invest your hard earned money into the health of your skin you should invest in the right products to do so. Don’t go for the hottest trending product. Choose professionals who can sell you medical grade, top of the line skin care proven by science and facts.

 

Oh, and that collagen laced cream you just splurged on? Best possible outcome is it’s going to bring a little more moisture to the surface of your skin, since collagen does hold some water. That’s about it though.