Skin Lighteners and Brighteners vs Skin Bleachers....What's The Difference?

I can't stress enough how important it is to do your research before trusting your face to someone, but to questions any before and after photos you may come across too.

Whether it's results from treatment or skin care product, it's important to ask lots of questions...
"Is this treatment/product healthy for the skin?"
"How many treatments did it take to achieve this result?"
"How long was this product used for?"
"Can this product be used indefinitely without any negative side effects?"
"Were injectables like Botox or Dermal Fillers used along with this product or treatment?"

Just to list a few.

I personally see a lot of before and after photos floating around Instagram or Facebook showing the apparent "incredible results" on hyperpigmentation or Melasma from simply using topical products.
To be honest this always makes me cringe a little because I know that there are so many people out there seeing these pictures who don't know the difference between results that came from a healthy and respectable way of treating the skin, and results that came from the exact opposite kind of treatment.

I've always preached about healthy and sustainable ways to treat the skin since my goal is not to just make the problem go away, but instead treat the problem and find a great solution that also makes the skin stronger and healthier throughout the process.

When it comes to something like hyperpigmentation from sun exposure or discoloured marks left over from breakouts, or hormonal pigment like Melasma there are a few different topical options to choose from.

Lets start with my favourite (insert sarcastic eye roll here) ....bleaching agents!!
The most common is something called Hydroquinone or "HQ" for short. This is a chemical that has actually been banned in several countries due to the fact that it's a potential carcinogen to humans.
It's been proven to cause cancer in rats. Wonderful!
Hydroquinone works by essentially poisoning the pigment (melanin) producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.
It seems to "work" very quickly and often makes people very happy as a result, but hang on!
It comes with a catch.

When used for too long, the HQ can kill off melanocytes all together and once a melanocyte has died it does not regenerate. So, instead of hyperpigmentation, you're now left with permanent hypopigmentation which looks like white splotches in the skin.
If the use of the product is discontinued before this point (since you can't use it indefinitely) the damage done to the melanocytes is repaired and they kick into high gear with a vengeance!
The problem often comes back but far worse than it ever was in the first place.

This is not a healthy or sustainable option. End of story.

On the flip side skin lighteners and brighteners such as vitamin c, kojic acid, licorice root for example are technically known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is a nonessential amino acid made by the body which is a building block for several important neurotransmitters like epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine. In the skin it's responsible for communicating with the melanocytes, signaling them to make melanin.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root all work by blocking that signal to the melanocyte, therefor diminishing the production of melanin. This is not harmful to the skin whatsoever and can be used forever with only positive benefits!

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant which aids in sun protection, healthy collagen production and neutralizes free radicals.
Kojic acid has antimicrobial properties and licorice root is an anti-inflammatory, is also an antioxidant and helps to regulate oil production in the skin.
All great things!!

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Popular Misconceptions About Skin Care

It can shrink your pores!!


Nope. Our skin type is determined by our genes and the size of our pores, oil glands and amount of hair follicles we have is something we're born with.

No skin care out there can change any of these things. However, people will often notice their pores appearing larger than normal because they're skin is congested. This is usually caused by oil impactions in the pore which essentially cause them to widen and "stretch".

What skin care CAN do for this is help dissolve that oil so the pore can relax and return to it's normal size. Things like acids and enzymes work best as they gently dissolve surface debris such as dead skin cells which makes it easier for the oil to come out. When used regularly debris on the surface is kept to a minimum and so the acids or enzymes can get to work on the oil inside the pores too.

I never recommend any kind of "quick fix" such as extractions for example. Yes, the process will help to purge the skin but when not done correctly it can actually be very damaging for the skin.
Also when improper products are being used at home, the problem will just come right back.

Regular use of a chemical exfoliant will treat the congestion but also prevent it from happening in the future.


A facial cleanser should leave you "squeaky clean".

No!! This is probably the most common mistake people make with their skin care. A cleanser should not leave you feeling tight, dry or squeaky clean.
All that means is you've removed your natural oil barrier called your acid mantle from the surface. This barrier is created by the skin and is an oil/water film. It's purpose is to keep the skin clean, protected and hydrated.
When removed, the oil glands in the skin kick into hyper drive and produce far more oil than normal to replace what was lost.

Ever experienced that gradual oil build up during the day that leaves you feeling super greasy and itching to go home and cleanse again? Yup. You're stripping your skin and it's a vicious cycle!
In the long term this can lead to premature aging, dehydration and more.

It can easily be fixed however by switching to a gentle cleanser, possibly even a lotion/milk cleanser that does not foam. A cleanser does not have to foam up to clean your skin, by the way.
The job of a cleanser is to change the pH of the skin, allowing impurities to come out. That's it, and you don't need foam for that!


All natural/organic skin care that doesn't contain any preservatives is the best.

In this day and age when everything is full of weird chemicals, hormones or grown with pesticides it's very easy to understand why people tend to gravitate to the seemingly most healthy and clean products.
When it comes to skin care formulation however it's a bit of a different story. A lot goes in to making products for the skin that are effective, active, stable, long lasting and healthy.

Even the containers that hold the products are extremely important! For example....
Lets say you have an all natural preservative free vitamin C lotion that is packaged in a twist off lid style jar.

The first problem with this is vitamin C is actually a very difficult vitamin to keep stable in a formulation. Second the fact that the jar is opened up each and every time the product is used is only exposing the vitamin to oxygen and light, causing it to break down at a very fast rate.

At the most basic level, oxidation is the loss of electrons. Some elements are more easily oxidized than others, which is what I'm referring to when I say vitamin C is a particularly difficult vitamin to keep stable. A stable molecule would have an equal number of electrons, so when oxidation occurs and the balance of electrons is changed and becomes unbalance...you now have a free radical.


So that all natural, preservative free jar of vitamin C cream that you think is so healthy, quickly turns to a jar of free radicals especially when it's constantly exposed to light and oxygen. This process actually happens very quickly and may only take a couple days before most of the vitamin C is destroyed.

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What The Answer To These Simple Questions Can Reveal About Your Skin!!

People are often surprised at what kind of, and how many questions I ask them during their initial consultation with me.
I go over everything with a fine tooth comb so I can gather enough information to figure out what their skin type really is (and not just what they think it is), what their skin needs and isn't getting, what their skin doesn't need but may be getting anyways, how sensitive their skin may be and if it's a true sensitive skin type or if it's sensitivity that's being caused by vitamin deficiency.

There's so much to learn from asking very simple questions. Unfortunately a lot of my clients who have seen other skin care professionals/laser technicians in the past often tell me they've never been asked these questions before.

Of course, everyone in the industry has their own ways of doing what they do. For me this method has proven to be very successful in helping me identify what specific products someone needs and why. 
It's extremely rare that anyone who has started on a new skin care regimen with me has not been over the moon about how it changes the way their skin feels (usually within the first use) and how it looks and functions in the long term too.


So let me share just a couple of my secrets with all of you....

After learning what they're currently using, how often and in what order etc...

My first question usually refers to the cleanser.
"After you finish cleansing and pat your skin dry, before continuing to the next step...how does your skin feel?"

Nine times out of ten people say "tight and dry."This is important even if it's a mild feeling.
This means the cleanser is disrupting the natural moisture barrier of the skin called the "acid mantle."
The acid mantle is a oil/water film that is produced by the skin and acts as protection from dehydration, bacteria and damage from other environmental elements.

When disrupted or removed completely (you know that squeaky clean feeling?!) it actually stimulates the oil glands in the skin to produce more oil to replace what was lost.
Hence my next question...

"How does your skin feel around lunch time on your average day?"
Again usually the answer is "greasy" or "a little oily".

The oil glands are working over time! This is especially a big problem if someone is prone to breakouts or has acne.

"How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"
The response to this question is usually something like "I can't wait to get home, take my make up off and wash my face!"

Someone who experiences this would likely be an oily skin type.

These people tend to save the extra strong, foamy cleanser for the evening because they feel so much build up on their skin. Of course, that means the skin is being stripped once again...
It's a vicious cycle that can be fixed with simply changing the cleanser to something that does not foam and leaves the acid mantle intact.

That's why I love the Mild Cleansing Lotion and the Hydra-Intense Cleansing Lotion from Environ.
Neither of these cleansers foam therefor they leave the acid mantle intact and the skin comfortable. This actually calms down the oil glands and people usually notice their skin feels more balanced within the first use.

Next question if the person is using a toner is...
"Does the toner feel cooling on your skin?"

If yes, this is a sign that toner is actually more like an astringent and is full of alcohol that is going to suck the skin dry of any moisture. Not good!

A true toner balances the pH of the skin and should have something more to give rather than taking something away from the skin.
This is exactly why my first love from Environ was their Moisturizing Toner. After two weeks of daily use I was noticing my complexion evening out and my skin becoming brighter. I was hooked!

It of course balances the pH of the skin but it also has lactic acid to gently exfoliate and draw moisture (which is why it's appropriate for dry and sensitive skin types too) as well as botanicals and vitamins to calm and feed the skin.


Now, going back to that same question "How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"

Sometimes people are unsure how to respond because their skin feels oily on the surface or just in specific areas like the t-zone, but it also feels tight and dry underneath or in specific areas like the cheeks/chin. Their skin may even start to flake at this point. So they're unsure if they're an oily skin type or dry skin type!

Usually they go home, over cleanse to remove the excess oil and apply the thickest heaviest moisturizer they can find in an attempt to hydrate their skin. Again, another vicious circle.

Someone that experiences this would be a dry skin type, or at least prone to dryness. Since their cleanser is stripping the acid mantle from their skin it is now open to dehydration.

In Calgary we have a dry atmosphere (just in case you didn't already know that!) and what happens now is called Transepidermal Water Loss, or "TEWL" for short.
This is the process where water molecules from the skin are evaporated into the surrounding atmosphere, causing dehydration.

Again, a problem that can easily be fixed with changing over to the correct products that would keep the acid mantle intact, draw moisture and penetrate the skin to properly hydrate.
That thick heavy night cream is only going to sit on the surface and give the feeling of relief while the product is on. Once it's washed off your skin is back to square one.

A serum is actually better at correcting dryness since it has a much thinner viscosity and when formulated properly, can actually go inside the skin to help fix the problem instead of just masking it.

That's just one of the many, many reasons I love the C-Quence Serum from Environ. It absorbs so quickly and feels so light, yet it's so powerful...and becomes even more powerful as you move onto the higher levels! It's a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to feed, nourish and correct the skin.

If someone has a true dry skin type and finds the serum isn't enough in terms of moisture, that's where the C-Quence Crème would come in! The Crème can be applied on top of the serum to not only provide additional moisture but also boost the levels of antioxidants and peptides for a potent anti-aging effect.


So as you can see, just a couple simple questions can actually reveal a lot about someone's skin!




To book a complimentary consultation with me to talk about Environ or anything else...

Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
Instagram: @lauras_lasers

Before I was a Laser Tech, I was a client and here's what happend to me.

I wanted to share a more personal story with everyone to explain why I do things the way I do as a laser tech and skin health therapist. I'm specifically talking about how I encourage everyone to be diligent and do their research before even stepping foot into an aesthetic clinic and definitely before hopping into a treatment chair and trusting a total stranger with your face.

When I was 17-20 years old I had persistent acne on my forehead. It was painful, embarrassing and left me with scars. I hated my skin.
I spent so much time and effort covering my scars every day with layer upon layer of heavy makeup before I'd even leave the house to run a simple errand.

Eventually I thought there must be something I could do to make them go away. I tried to do research on what the best treatment might be for me, but I was overwhelmed by so many options and found it extremely confusing since every site I looked at on line had a completely different opinion about what really works.

I ended up stumbling upon a new "laser clinic" that was close to where I was living at the time so I thought I'd give it a try based on nothing except the location. I called in to book my appointment and without even asking what I wanted the treatment for the man on the phone said "our laser will make you look ten years younger after one treatment!"

Ooook....I was 20 years old at the time and had no desire to look any younger, I just wanted my scars gone. I disregarded that comment and booked an appointment anyways.

When I walked into the "clinic" I realized it was actually a hair salon so at first I thought I must've been in the wrong place. After going to the front desk to ask it turned out I was in the right place after all.

It wasn't a laser clinic, it was just a room in the back of the salon that someone was renting to do services in. I didn't really think anything of it.
Eventually a woman came and took me to the small room in the back. She didn't explain the treatment to me, how it works, what it feels like, what to do afterwards...nothing.

She told me to lay down on the treatment table, so I did and she immediately put metal goggles over my eyes. So not only do I have no idea of what's about to happen, but now I can't even see. Great!

A few moments passed and I heard the woman call out to someone but wasn't sure who as she was speaking another language now. I heard the door open and a man came into the room.
They started going back and forth in discussion while I lie there and wasn't able to understand a single word.

I slid my goggles off to see the woman had the manual to the machine out on the table and was flipping through the pages while talking to her husband.

This probably should've been the point where I clued in that these people really didn't know what they were doing, and I should've gotten up and walked out.
But I didn't! Because I was 20 years old and sick of being embarrassed of my skin and was willing to risk being treated by this clueless woman if it meant my scars would get better.

I mean, what's the worst that could happen right??....oh, if  my 20 year old self had only known!
I would've RAN straight out of that room.

With a nervous knot in my stomach I laid back down and let her start the treatment. I wasn't prepared for the pain or bright flashing lights I could see regardless of wearing metal goggles, so that really startled me at first. I had to wonder if that was normal, or if I was risking damage to my eyes.

I asked the lady to stop and I told her I could see the bright light. She said it wasn't a problem and kept going...not exactly the warmest personality I've ever come across.

I couldn't wait for her to finish. When she finally did she took my goggles off, and told me to reschedule in a couple weeks for another treatment.
She didn't give me any post care instructions, or even tell me to wear sunscreen. It was the middle of summer, I was outdoors a lot and never wore sunscreen.

I ended up doing two more treatments which were over $200 a pop. That was a lot of money for me at the time since I was working in retail, but again I didn't care. I just wanted my scars gone.

In the end the treatments didn't change a single thing about my skin except for the fact that I had accumulating more sun damage. I wasn't informed that the treatments would make my skin more photo-sensitive than normal and I went all summer long without a drop of sunscreen.

I think back on that experience now and I'm so grateful it wasn't any worse.
I know now that lady was treating me with an IPL (Intense Pulse Light) which isn't a laser.
I now know that IPL has the highest risk of burns and other complications than any other light based device.
I now know that to claim one treatment will make someone look ten years younger is beyond outrageous and misleading.

I also know now that there is no education required before someone can get behind a laser, IPL or nearly any other aesthetic device/machine out there and treat someone. Terrifying!!

I can only assume that I paid all that money to be under treated since this is a common occurrence when technicians are unsure of the proper settings to use on someone.

It's because of that experience I strive to make sure everyone in my treatment chair feels informed, comfortable and confident in anything they choose to do for their skin. Even if it's just trying new skin care products.

I make sure everyone knows exactly what to expect before, during and after their treatments. I always make sure they can get in touch with me should they have any questions or concerns.
I don't mind a little "hand holding" if it means my clients are comfortable and happy with the service I provide for them. I will never sugar coat anything or give someone unrealistic expectations.

A consultation with me might take a little longer than it does with someone else, but I like to think that means my clients leave far more educated and able to make the best decision for themselves instead of blindly trusting what I'm telling them to do.



To book a consultation with me Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com
Message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

Of All Laser and Light Treatments...This Is The Most Dangerous And It's Probably Not What You Think!

With so many different laser and light treatments out there, it can really seem to be overwhelming.
Many people I meet put off exploring these kinds of treatments because they feel like they just don't know where to start, and I'll agree that it can seem pretty intimidating.

I always encourage everyone to do their research or "home work" on the clinic and treatment provider before committing to any kind of treatment plan at all. There are dozens of wavelengths that make lasers different from one another many and different companies that make lasers, which differ in quality.

Of course even if you find a clinic with the most high-tech equipment, the laser technician has to know how to use that piece of equipment properly and have the understanding of the skin, energy, tissue interaction and the condition which they're treating.
It's all actually very complicated and we've all heard one or two horror stories out there from a laser treatment gone bad.

That's why it's so important to find someone with experience and proper education. Since the industry isn't regulated, that responsibility falls on the client.
To clarify, no...you don't need any training or education to treat someone with a laser.
Scary, right? Tell me about it.

You may be wondering "Clinics don't actually hire just anyone, do they?"
Well yes, some do.
I've seen clinics convert their receptionist or manager to "Laser Tech" and suddenly they're treating people to remove hair, to do ablative skin resurfacing and even internal vaginal rejuvenation treatments.

The benefit for the clinic owner is a less expensive "technician" since they have zero experience, they don't get paid as much, and the benefit for the client is.......

Hmmmm, you might have to give me a minute for that one.......scratch that.

It's simply unfair to the client as treatments can be quite pricey and don't come without risks.
Common risks you may see on a consent form for a laser treatment are burns, blisters, scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, infection and permanent eye damage.

Just to name a few.

You may be thinking those risks listed would only show up on a more aggressive kind of laser treatment, right? Well no.
All those things listed above are quite possible even with an innocent laser hair removal treatment.

You may also be wondering what treatment carries the most risk? You're probably wondering that because it's the title of this blog...so ok, I'm getting there.

The treatment that is the most risky, which just also happens to be one of the most popular and well-liked is an IPL which stands for "Intense Pulsed Light".
Also called BBL which stands for "Broad Band Light" or simply called Photofacials.
They're all the same thing.

This is actually not a laser at all, it's light. What makes the two different is a laser is one concentrated beam of energy and contains one wavelength from the light spectrum.

Whereas as IPL or BBL contains multiple wavelengths and is scattered. While a laser being a concentrated beam of energy sounds way more scary than a scattered light...it is actually easier to hurt someone with an IPL than it is a laser.

Since an IPL contains multiple wavelengths and each different wavelength absorbs into certain things like melanin, hemoglobin or water all differently, you have more absorption into different targets all at the same time which is what makes it so much more risky.
The parameters (settings) that are dialled in by the technician have to be ON POINT for the treatment to walk that fine line of effective, yet safe.

To do that the technician should have a solid understanding of the light spectrum and tissue interaction. Sadly not a lot do.
The most common thing I hear from people who have had Photofacials is that they found the treatments ineffective.

This is common since a technician who isn't experienced will often shy away from stronger settings and simply under treat. So sure they're not burning people, but they're also not giving them what they paid for and the client is left disappointed.


Just another reason to do your research on who you trust your face to!


Go to my Instagram page @Lauras_Lasers to see my work, message me if you have any questions or to book a consultation!

How To Treat Your Acne Scars At Home

To be clear, this is not an article on how to torture your skin with house hold products...if you've read my previous blogs you may know I'm not exactly the biggest fan of baking soda masks, lemon juice peels or apple cider vinegar in place of toner.

Instead this blog is about how to get the most out of your home care routine (with the correct products that were made for human skin) to lighten scars from acne.

To start off, there are actually two different kinds of scars that acne can leave behind.
The first is called Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH for short) and these are the scars that appear pink, red, purple or brown in colour and are flat, not indented in the skin.

The other kind are scars that are pitted and indented in the skin, and these can come in different shapes and have different names such as "box car" or "ice pick" scars.

These types of scars cannot be fixed with home care, so this blog is addressing the PIH scarring only.
I'll quickly say that to treat indented scarring you need to look into things like laser resurfacing, needling,  injectables and skin care as these scars are the most difficult to treat. It is do-able however so those with indented scars should no be deterred by this article.

Do your research and look into someone who has experience treating different types of scars on different types of skin (...hi!!) and go in for a consultation to get all the details.

Now as for those PIH scars...I have to say this is a very common concern as these scars can stick around for a very long time, can be embarrassing and a pain to try and cover with make up on a daily basis.
As someone who has been there and done that, I know how frustrating it is to constantly be reminded of those breakouts from the past and wondering when the spots will finally fade away.

Good news is the spots do tend to improve in most people over time, bad news is that it can take years and ain`t nobody got time for that, am I right?

First thing you have to do is ditch all the skin care I'd bet you're currently using that is slowing your progress down and likely damaging your skin. Make the switch to high quality effective products and once you start to see a difference, you'll be so happy you did!

Astringents

Sometime these products hide behind the word "toner" when they're actually full of alcohol and medicated ingredients such as peroxides, tea tree oil and salicylic acid.

While I don't have anything against those last two ingredients on their own, when formulated into an astringent with a bunch of alcohol it really does suck the skin dry of all moisture and hydration.
You know that tight, squeaky clean feeling it gives you?
Ya, that's not a good thing!

When you strip the skin of all its natural oils and moisture you're removing the protective barrier on the surface which leaves the skin open and vulnerable to environmental damage. It also stimulates the oil glands to work extra hard and produce more oil to replace what was lost. Excess oil can also contribute to more breakouts, and therefor more scars.

Replace your astringent with a real, proper toner. A true toner should balance pH and instead of taking away, it should give back to your skin.
Environs Moisturizing Toner was my first true love and what ultimately got me hooked on the rest of Environs incredible products.
The toner has vitamins, botanicals and lactic acid which all work together to even skin tone, lightly exfoliate, balance pH and add hydration. The product should be used morning and night after cleansing.


Scrubs

I don't care what brand it is or how much you paid for it, all scrubs are evil.
They increase inflammation, strip the skin, spread bacteria and will actually slow down how quickly your skin renews itself, which means it's slowing down how quickly those scars can start to fade away.

Use the rest of your scrub up on your feet, knees and elbows and switch to an exfoliant that will do much more for you. Environs Revival Masque, or Teoxane's Perfect Skin Refiner are both wonderful options.

Environs Revival Masque has lactic, malic and asiatic acid to dissolve dull, dead skin cells, kill bacteria, stimulate a faster renewal rate of the skin and prevent future breakouts at the same time.
I like to think of the Masque as a mini at-home chemical peel. Used 1-2 times a week and left on for 25 to 45 minutes at a time, it really helps to fade pigment, even skin tone and gives a beautiful dewy glow!

Teoxanes Perfect Skin Refiner has hyaluronic acid and glycolic acid to deeply hydrate the skin while the acid goes to work. This is a great option for anyone with severely dry skin, or those who want a product where you can put it on and forget about it as it's used as a night time lotion 2-3 times a week. Men usually love this product!


Skin Bleachers

I know it's easy to become frustrated and want a quick easy fix no matter the product or cost, but please don't go the skin bleaching route!
Hydroquinone or "HQ" has been banned in several countries around the world as it is considered a potential carcinogen, or cancer causing.

The chemical works by poisoning the pigment producing cells in the skin, called melanocytes.
Long term use of the chemical risks melanocyte death, and once a melanocyte has been destroyed there is no coming back.
This means you can be left with permanent white patches in the skin where there is no pigment at all. If however, you stop using the product before you get to that point the melanocytes often rebound after usage has stopped and produce way more pigment than ever before.
So, the problem comes right back and can even be worse than it was before!

A healthy alternative that is even more effective is something like Environs C-Boost Lotion. 
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and helps to lighten and brighten the skin naturally by simply blocking the signals to the melanocytes, so they never get the message to make more pigment!
Besides that it stimulates healthy collagen production, protects against sun damage, evens skin tone and hydrates all at the same time.
The product can be used twice a day for years and it will only make the skin more healthy and resilient.


For any questions or to book a consultation with me you can contact me through my Instagram page which is @Lauras_Lasers or call/text 403 991 1663

Why Environ Skin Care Is The Best Bang For Your Buck, By A Mile!!

It's definitely no secret that I truly believe Environ is the best skin care out there. 
I've been using it for over 5 years and I'm baffled at the transformation my skin has gone through. Not only in the way my skin looks, but in the way it functions as well.

As a skin health professional I also understand what it takes for a topical product to be effective and safe. There is nothing about Environ that doesn't make perfect sense to me.

Of course, I don't always expect people to simply take my word for it since almost anyone who sells skin care for a living will say their product is the best. For that reason people often take that statement with a grain of salt.

So, here's just a few reasons why investing in Environ is worth every single penny, and more.



No Fluff.

Environ doesn't use any "trendy" ingredients in any of their products.
I'm talking about things like 24 Karat Gold, caviar extract, coconut oil, plant stem cells...just to name a few.
Ingredients like these are recognizable, they seem fancy and therefor seem to justify the hefty price tag of the product.

In reality, they do diddly squat for your skin.

If I'm being honest the 24 Karat Gold thing particularly annoys me...how is applying a precious metal to your face going to make it healthier?! Our skin cells don't live off of gold people. Stop it already!

Anyways...
Environ only uses scientifically proven ingredients to feed, nourish and stimulate the skin. Things like vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Things that your cells can actually absorb and put to good use which will increase the quality and normalize the function of the skin.



It Respects The Skin.

When I first started at Facial Esthetics One the clinic had already brought on a different brand of skin care. I will not name names, but it just happened to be a line that I honestly loathe. It's comprised of harsh scrubs, strong retinols that can only be compared to something like battery acid and drying, irritating acid soaked wipes.

I simply couldn't sell the line. I haven't scrubbed my face in 6 years and I don't believe in punishing the skin to force the desired outcome. So, we eventually made the switch over to Environ!

Aaaaah, sweet relief.

To give one great example of what makes Environs approach so different, lets talk about vitamin A, which is the corner stone of Environ.

We naturally lose vitamin A as we age, and things like diet, sun exposure, pollutants and more cause the depletion of vitamin A in the skin to occur even faster.
Since we lose vitamin A from our skin, our skin cells therefor lose the ability to absorb it normally over time.

Few people understand that a deficiency of vitamin A in the skin leads to the development of major problems and contributes to aging and sun damage...and even skin cancer.

Most skin care lines produce some sort of vitamin A/retinol product however, more often than not there is only one strength made, and it's a potent strength!

The problem with this is the skins inability to absorb a high dose of vitamin A right off the bat like that, as a result the cells will absorb what they can but everything left over sits around the cells and irritates the entire area.

The skin reacts by purging which creates major inflammation, peeling, burning, dryness and therefor opens up the skin to more damage.
This is called a retinoid reaction and can lasts for several weeks while continuing to use a product like this. Eventually the skin is forced to adjust and absorb more vitamin A, but until then people tend to go through quite the uncomfortable, embarrassing and even painful reaction until the skin finally normalizes.

This has never made any sense to me since there is literally zero benefit in putting your skin through such a reaction.

On the flip side, Environ has a unique step-up system to introduce levels of vitamin A slowly allowing the skin time to adjust, normalize, strengthen and repeat!

All of their corrective serums come in four different strengths. This ensures the skins barrier is maintained, the integrity is not compromised, the skin is properly nourished and function is improved. Only good things come from doing it this way!
Over time the skin can easily tolerate the highest dose of vitamin A and is much stronger as a result.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, it's our barrier from the environment and it's what we present to everyone around us, so it deserves nothing but love and respect.



Science!!!

Environ is one of the few skin care ranges with its own sterile manufacturing facilities with dedicated chemists and state of the art technology.
All products are manufactured and filled under red light to protect light sensitive ingredients. They are also manufactured under a vacuum to prevent exposure to air which can denature active ingredients.

The packaging is specially designed to protect the product from light and air to ensure maximum hygiene and freshness.

Every single batch is scientifically tested by internationally accredited independent laboratories to check the chemical content and sterility of the product.

For this reason Environ is the only skincare brand in the world to carry the prestigious "Swiss Vitamin Institute" label on their products... no big deal!!
This guarantees the products contain the strength of ingredients that are declared by Environ and that consumers are getting a quality, highly active and effective product.



No Animal Testing.

Environ products are only tests on human volunteers and trials are conducted on more than 100 people over an 18 month period.
What a concept to test a skin care line intended for human skin...on human skin!
No bunnies required.



Standards.

Environ is only sold by professionals. You will never find it at a kiosk in the mall or hear that your girlfriend is now selling it from home as a side gig.

When Environ branches into a new clinic many steps are taken to educate the staff on everything Environ does, makes and why.

Personally I've never received such thorough training on any skincare line like I have on Environ.
The company does this because they are committed to quality and not just the physical quality of what they make, but the quality of product consultations and education that skin health professionals give each and everyone of their clients.

This is just one reasons why Environ doesn't do celebrity endorsements and very little advertising at all. The company has become so successful by creating real results through their products, and that gets noticed all on its own!


*Oh, I would also like to add for good measure that I have never been paid by Environ to promote their products.

I'm simply just a huge skincare snob (I'm not ashamed!!) and promote what I believe in.

Microlaser Peel vs. Chemical Peel...What's The Difference?

It's no secret that one of my favourite treatments is a Microlaser Peel.
They're fast, tolerable, aggressive enough that they yield some fantastic results with as little as one treatment, but not so aggressive that it puts you down and out for days and days recovering.

Also known as a Skin Polishing Peel, or Micron Peel. I prefer to perform the treatment with  Fotona Erbium YAG which is a 2940 nm wavelength laser. The huge benefit of this system is that it's a medical grade laser, it's even used for surgery.

So not only is the system extremely high tech, but it's also extremely versatile and allows the user to dial in whatever settings they see fit. It's extremely customizable, unlike some other run of the mill systems out there that have pre-determined programs for the user to choose from...program A, B, C. Level 1, 2 or 3...you get the idea.

My preferred depth for the treatment is 20 microns on the face, and 15 microns on the eyes.
To give you an idea, I'd have to go 1,000 microns to go 1mm deep in the skin.
So, 20 microns is really not that aggressive. It's really only working on the surface to vaporize the dead surface cell layer on top of the skin.

I often compare one Microlaser Peel to have a full series (5 or 6) mild to moderate Chemical Peels, but in one treatment, and with a laser instead. No acids, no chemicals.

The obvious benefit of choosing a Microlaser Peel over a full series of chemical peels is you save a ton of time. Usually chemical peels are done anywhere from 2-4 weeks apart. So it's going to take some significant time to get through all the treatments and finally see the end result.

While I'm also a big fan of chemical peels, they just don't measure up to what a laser can do.
Chemical peels come in different forms, different percentages and pH levels which determine the strength. They work by eating away at dead surface cells, dissolving excess oil, killing bacteria, and stimulating a higher cell renewal rate.

However, a single Microlaser peel does all of that and more. The biggest difference is that by using a laser, you have the added benefit of putting energy into the skin, laser energy, which converts to heat in the tissue.
I can also dial in exactly how much heat I want to put into the skin, which is a huge benefit as that allows me to treat any skin colour and nearly any skin concern.

Heat stimulates collagen production and a natural healing response but much deeper than your typical chemical peel would, so therefor it's much better for anti-ageing.

A Microlaser Peel is also ablative, meaning it removes tissue.
While chemical peels dissolve dead surface cells, a Microlaser Peel done with an Erbium YAG is vaporizing cells.
So if you're someone who's concerned with something like sun damage (brown spots), a Microlaser Peel will physically remove those cells. A chemical peel will only fade the pigment.

There's also the nice bonus of treating right over the eyelids, from the brow down to the lash line and from the cheek bone up to the lash line. You definitely can't take acids and chemicals around the eyes.

After inserting surgical grade ocular shields to protect the eyes from the laser light, the treatment takes about 5 minutes and the result is smoothing, firming and tightening of the area.

After one Microlaser Peel, everyone will see a noticeable difference. The skin is smoother, brighter, softer and more even. After 2-3 peels done one month apart, the results can be remarkable.

There is no real downtime after the treatment, only social downtime meaning makeup cannot be applied for three days afterwards. A post healing balm must be worn instead for those three days to keep the skin protected and hydrated. Sun exposure is a big no-no until a proper SPF can applied on day four.

I do have many patients that choose to go into work regardless of not wearing any makeup and being red and a little blotchy, and that's perfectly fine too. As long as the guidelines are followed afterwards and the proper products are being used, there's no need to hide away for those three days.

Other people however, do schedule the time to stay at home and wait until all shedding and healing of the skin is complete. On day four mineral powders and SPF can be applied and you can go back to your normal routine.

To this day I've never performed a Microlaser Peel for anyone who didn't love the results!

Choosing Products For Your Acne....You're Doing It Wrong!!

Aaaah the skin care isle…bright, colorful and playful packaging, delicious smells, celebrity endorsements and promises of turning your acne around and making your way to perfect, clear skin!

It’s tempting isn’t it? Even as a laser tech and skin health specialist I still even find myself aimlessly wandering down the very same isle.

First off, drug store skin care is just not the way to go in general. It’s inexpensive because it’s cheaply made. If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck and looks like a duck…it must be a squirrel! Oh no wait, I mean it’s a duck, duh! Sorry.

There’s also a stigma when it comes to acne that’s been ingrained in all of us, and most likely from skin care product advertisements. That stigma is that acne skin is dirty skin.

Most of us have struggled with break outs at one time or another. For some it’s short lived and for others, it can go on for years. Therefore, most of us have been in the very same isle wandering aimlessly hoping to stumble upon the solution.

Now, most skin care you see at the drug store that is meant for oily, or acne prone skin tends to be medicated with things like salicylic acid, peroxides, tea tree oil etc and promise to kill off any living thing that is on your face. Wow, intense!

Anyone who has used these kinds of products know firsthand that they leave the skin feeling dry, tight and squeaky clean, but that’s a good thing since we want our skin to be super clean, right?

No, not exactly.

Would you be surprised if I told you that bacteria is not actually the main problem when it comes to acne? Well, then hang on to your squirrels because you’re about to get the shock of your life!

Bacteria is NOT the problem! It’s been proven that those who have acne also have a hypertrophic stratum corneum. Or, an extra thick dead skin cell layer which sits on the surface. These cells stick together and don’t shed off naturally as they do in otherwise healthy skin.

These dead cells lingering around tend to come together with oil and create a clog. Only THEN do the bacteria come into play to feed off the oil.

It’s right about then one finds themselves constantly over cleansing, either too often or with a harsh cleanser, or both!

Well the issue here is that tight, dry squeaky clean feeling those products give you. This is not a good sign as that means you’ve just stripped your skin of all its natural oils and moisture.

Your skin is now exposed to all sorts of environmental damage including bacteria and dehydration. So, what does your skin do to combat this? The oil glands kick into hyper-drive and produce a ton of oil to replace what was lost.

Now you mix in all this extra oil, with those extra dead cells and you’ve really got a problem!

This is why it’s so important to give up those foamy, medicated cleansers and use something gentle. After all, acne is a condition that causes inflammation and damage so the skin could use some extra TLC as opposed to constant punishment.

My recommendations are always a milky cream cleanser, like Environ’s Mild Cleansing Lotion and a pH balancing Toner like the Moisturizing Toner from Environ as well. This ensures the skin is comfortable, hydrated and balanced. Beyond that there are further steps to take like chemical exfoliation and nourishing the skin but that’s best left up to a professional during a consultation to see what your skin needs since everyone is different and not all acne is the same.

Striving For A Higher Standard

These days it seems like everyone and their dog is a skin care expert, it can be confusing to know how to decipher the real information and the trending now, gimmicky kind of information...i.e. 24K gold, collagen, Himalayan salt, coconut oil, and charcoal ingredients that all promise to transform your skin.

 

First off, many people will be surprised to learn that to be a skin care professional there are no requirements or standards set in place. Not even in spas or medi-spas, and of course anyone on the planet (and who knows, maybe even seriously their dog!?) can sign up and start selling skin care from pyramid type companies.

 

Without needing to write an entire separate blog, we’ll just say that the skin is an organ. The largest organ of the body, and just like any other organ it needs proper nutrition to be healthy.

The cells in the skin are growing and dividing constantly, just like all the cells in the rest of the human body. These cells need vitamins and minerals to function normally. When you come across new, trendy skin care you might want to approach with some healthy skepticism.

 

Skin care that provides high quality vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, peptides and hydration are products that will feed, and change the skin. These types of products are placed in a separate category all together, called cosmeceuticals. They are highly concentrated, active products that are only sold through spas or clinics with trained professionals.

 

Even more terrifying, the same goes for the laser and light industry. No requirements, no standards, nothing needed to get behind a laser and start treating people. That being said, it’s always important to do your homework when you’re choosing to hand over not just your money, but your face to someone.

 

Many clinics and spas choose to set higher standards and will only hire estheticians or laser technicians who have gone to school and have experience in the industry.

Some clinics and spas however, do not. So the onus is on the client to research, and to even simply ask what kind of education their esthetician or technician has and what the hiring policies of the establishment may be.

 

While getting bad skin care advice may not be the end of the world as it may only turn out to be a waste of money and dissapointment in the lack of results, a bad laser or light treatment can be far more costly.

Burns, infections, scarring, permanent pigmentation and eye damage are just a few of the complications that can arise from a treatment gone bad.

 

Of course, this article is not meant to instill fear in those who are looking into laser or light treatments. After all when done properly, the results can truly be amazing and well worth the investment.

 

However it’s important to know that these treatments don’t just involve a point and shoot method. Laser and light physics and the interaction this energy has with tissue is a science and something that needs to be well understood by those delivering treatments.

Be diligent, don’t trust blindly and do your homework!

Why Tanning Beds Are Actually Robbing You Of Your Vitamin D

Many indoor tanning companies advertise their beds to be beneficial for providing vitamin D. This is a marketing angle that these companies have come up with in an attempt to offset the bad reputation that indoor tanning has gathered in the more recent years in regards to skin cancer and other health and cosmetic problems.

 

Surprisingly, this tactic has worked quite well in attracting people who are interested in this new, and so called “healthy” way to get their vitamin D. While we obviously need healthy levels of vitamin D, this is definitely not the ideal way to get it and we will tell you why!

 

As most of us know there are 3 main rays that are dispersed from the sun. UVA, UVB and UVC rays.

UVA rays are the rays that cause tanning, skin cancer and are responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin fibers deep in the skin which is why they’re also responsible for causing the majority of premature aging.

 

UVB rays are the rays that damage the skin more superficially (on the surface), cause burns and enable the skin to make vitamin D.

Thankfully UVC rays are filtered out by the earth’s atmosphere, so we don’t have to worry too much about those ones!

 

A tanning bed will contain up to about 90% UVA rays, since these are the rays that cause tanning, and only 10% UVB rays. Clearly the concentration of UVB is very low, however this isn’t the main problem when talking about why a tanning bed would actually diminish our levels of vitamin D.

The real problem is a sneaky one and probably something you’ve never heard about before.

 

UVA rays denature and destroy vitamin D. Yup, that’s right! You see normally, in cases of long term sun exposure outside the balance of UVB allowing us to create the vitamin, along with UVA denaturing it would keep us from essentially over dosing on vitamin D. But, since tanning beds are about 12x the concentration and are mostly UVA rays, this throws any natural balance way off whack. This means that any vitamin D we’re creating from the low levels of UVB rays in a tanning bed, is being destroyed just as fast by the UVA rays.

 

In addition, any vitamin D we walked in with is also being destroyed straight from the skin as well as the blood stream since UVA rays penetrate deep down into the dermis which is home to many nutrient rich blood vessels. It’s because of this that we’re actually leaving the tanning salon with less vitamin D than when we entered it!

 

So, now that we’ve thoroughly discredited tanning beds in offering us any health benefits…what is the best way to get vitamin D?

Some health care professionals will actually recommend getting natural sunlight outside and collecting your vitamin D that way. That however, leads us to a problem…actually several problems, but let’s take it one at a time shall we?

 

How much sun does one need to get their daily dose of vitamin D? This can vary greatly from person to person and is solely dictated by skin color. Someone who has fair skin and light hair needs a lot less sun exposure than someone who has brown or black skin with dark hair to get their vitamin D.

This process can also be effected by factors like certain prescriptions. For example, something like cholesterol lowering medications can inhibit your skin from making vitamin D since the vitamin is ultimately created from a precursor of cholesterol!

 

The less cholesterol available, the less vitamin D can be created.

Another factor is the time you would have to spend in the sun on a day to day basis is going to vary greatly with weather/seasonal changes. One day it could be 10 minutes on a beautiful sunny day, the next it could be 25+ minutes on a cloudy one. The amount of exposure needed also varies widely depending on where you live and how close you are to the equator.

 

So, that being said, as a general rule when exposing yourself to the sun without any protection such as long sleeves, an umbrella or sunscreen for example. The time it takes for your skin to turn light pink is the recommended time someone should stay in the sun in order to create enough vitamin D.

However, another general rule for sun exposure is when the skin starts to turn red, there has already been free radical damage to the area.

 

This may not sound so bad to most people but keep in mind, it’s actually free radical damage that leads to development of something like skin cancer. There’s a fine line between some pink tones developing and redness developing in the skin. Most people won’t be paying enough attention to even notice that there’s any difference at all and would therefor end up causing unwanted damage.

People also often assume the skin is not only creating, but is absorbing the vitamin D instantly, or at least in a relatively short amount of time, right? Guess again!

 

New research shows that the process of the vitamin D reaching and being absorbed into the blood stream can take up to 48 hours! Until then, it’s vulnerable near the surface of the skin and can even be washed off with soap in the shower!

 

So it’s for ALL of these reasons that getting your vitamin D outside is simply not a safe, reliable or a realistic option!!

Our opinion and that of many skin health professionals is that the safest and most effective way to get your vitamin D is through supplementation. A high quality, high absorbency type of nutritional supplement not only keeps you safely out of the sun, but allows you to dispense exactly how much vitamin D you need for your specific needs. Depending on body weight and many other factors, this can range anywhere between 1,000 to 5,000+ UI’s.

 

Checking in with your doctor is always a good idea to make sure you’re getting the amount you need. Hopefully with this new information, you’ll be able to make the best choice for yourself!!

A Beautiful Neck For A Lifetime

The skin on the neck is some of the thinnest on the entire body which means it’s more susceptible to premature aging.

Here are some tips on how to maintain a beautiful youthful neck for years to come...

 

#1: Prevent.

The first step is always prevention. To correct any damage that’s been done to the skin or maintain what you already have, you need to prevent further damage from happening in the first place. In this case that means wearing a high quality SPF daily! Nothing will ruin your skin faster than UV rays as they break down collagen and elastin fibers which is what keeps your skin plump, firm and youthful.

An SPF of about 30 is recommended for day to day use. When it comes to sunscreens you actually have the choice of two different types.

  

Chemical sunscreens contain...you guessed it! Chemicals that absorb into the skin and neutralize UV rays. To do this however the chemicals must go through a process that leads to them breaking down in the skin. This raises some controversy over the safety of these types of sunscreens. Some of the most common chemicals you’ll see listed in the medical ingredients section of sunscreens are oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene.

 

Physical sunscreens contain minerals like Titanium Dioxide and/or Zinc Oxide and these work by simply sitting on the surface of the skin and reflecting UV light. No chemicals, no interaction with the skin.

  

Our preferred sunscreen is from Environ, it is a physical sunscreen with an SPF of 25. The size of a large pea covers the entire face so it lasts forever, it’s non- greasy and will not cause breakouts!

 

#2: Equal Treatment.  

Treating your neck how you treat the rest of your face may sound simple but most of us don’t use our cleanser all the way down our neck, and we might even think using up our toners or moisturizers on the area is a waste.

 

Since your neck has thinner skin than your face it will age faster, so actually your neck needs just as much, if not more TLC than your face does! When you cleanse, tone or moisturize your face make sure to include your full neck! If you don’t, your face may look younger than you actually are but your neck is bound to give away your age in a heart beat!

 

#3: Exfoliate.

When we’re in our 20’s our skin renews itself about every 28 days meaning new skin cells are created in the lowest layers of our skin and the old, dried up dead surface cells flake off. In our 30’s this process slows down to every 40-50 days, in our 50’s and 60’s it can be as slow as every 2 months or more!

This gradual slowing of skin cell renewal is one of the many major changes, and challenges as our skin continues to age.

  

Without proper exfoliation our skin is left look dull, grey-ish, textured and unhealthy. There’s two different ways to exfoliate.

Mechanical exfoliation involves scraping of the skin to force off dead surface cells. The problem with this is it can be extremely irritating to the skin when done regularly, as a result it will increase inflammation in the skin. In the long run it can also cause the skin to thin out and be more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Chemical exfoliation involves acids or enzymes like Lactic or Glycolic acid which come from milk and sugar cane. Enzymes such as Bromelain from pineapple is a more gentle option and great for super sensitive and reactive skin types.

 

The acids or enzymes dissolve dead surface cells and stimulate the skin underneath to reproduce faster. It’s a wonderful way to produce a gorgeous dewy glow! All while being far more gentle in comparison to harsh daily scrubs which, the skin on the neck wouldn’t be able to tolerate for very long anyways due to this area being very thin skinned.

Top 3 Acne Mistakes

Many different age groups and skin types suffer from mild, moderate or severe acne and almost all of us have been there at one time or another.

 

Most common in teens, acne often shows up along with the introduction of sex hormones that stimulate oil production in the skin.

 

It can also show up in menopausal women as adult acne for the same reason, a shift and change in hormones. The truth is acne at any age is frustrating, embarrassing and can seem like an uphill battle.

Most people can relate to the fact that it seems the more you try and treat acne with harsh topical medications or scrubs, the worse it becomes.

  

The idea that having acne means that ones skin is somehow “dirty” or “greasy” often causes us to go straight for the strongest products we can find to kill bacteria and strip our skin almost cleansing it half to death.

 

There has to be a better way, right? Listed below are the top three most common mistakes people make when trying to treat their acne.

#1: Over Cleansing.

Somehow we’ve been programed to think that having acne means we have dirty skin. Most likely an idea that was placed in our minds purposely to encourage the purchasing of products that claim to clean our skin of dirt, grime and gunk. The truth is acne prone skin is not dirty, it is inflamed and congested and therefor needs some major TLC.

When talking facial cleansers you typically have three options...

  

-Gel cleanser.

-Foam cleanser.

-Cream cleanser.

 

Typically acne type cleansers are gel that lathers and foams up a ton when used. These cleansers are the strongest of all since they remove and strip the skin of all oil. That’s where you get that squeaky clean feeling from. These cleansers typically leave you feeling tight, dry and itching to slather on some moisturizer ASAP before your face begins to crack.

 

However, your skin needs oil. Sebaceous glands in the skin produce oil as a natural lubricant, cleaner, and barrier for the skin. Without it the skin is actually more vulnerable to environmental damage and bacteria.

  

Your skin quickly senses the lack of protection after all the oil has been removed and the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was taken away. This is why most people start to feel extremely oily mid-day and can hardly wait to go home and cleanse all over again...it’s a vicious cycle! Too much oil being produced will actually stimulate more clogs and breakouts, all while drying out the skin and making it vulnerable to damage. Not a good option.

 

The best option is actually a cream type cleanser that does not foam. This will still clean the skin, but will not strip it of all the healthy oils the skin needs! In turn the oil glands will calm down and produce a more normal amount of oil which will reduce breakouts and ensure the skin is feeling much more balanced throughout the day.

#2: Exfoliating.

Continuing to follow the idea that our skin is somehow dirty, a very popular product used by most who suffer with acne is facial scrubs. Simply put, these types of products should either be thrown out or used up on your feet, knees or elbows because they do not belong on your face!

 

Especially for those who struggle with acne, scrubs are just so not the way to go. They create microscopic lesions in the top layer of skin which stimulates a healing response, increasing inflammation. The beads pick up and spread bacteria to other open pores and follicles in the skin, spreading and worsening breakouts.

 

In the long term facial scrubs thin the skin and make it more vulnerable to damage. This being said, one of the main problems with acne prone skin is the extra thick layer of dead skin cells on top, this is fact. So how do we get rid of this build up without scrubbing? Acids.

Sounds a little scary and aggressive right? Well acids like Lactic or Glycolic for example come from natural sources such as milk and sugar cane and are actually more beneficial for the skin than scrubs will ever be.

Lactic acid is a great option for those with acne who also struggle with dryness as this acid increases hydration in the skin, drawing moisture.

Glycolic acid is a great option for those with acne who struggle with excessive oil production, or those with adult acne as this acid is widely used for anti-aging purposes.

The acids dissolve dead surface cells, kill bacteria and actually stimulate the skin to renew at a faster rate. So the more often you use acids the more often you’ll have new skin!!

For those who may be wondering I did not list Salicylic acid here as I believe it removes too much oil from the skin and can continue to stimulate further oil production.

#3 Depriving the skin.

Our skin is the largest organ of the body, yet it is last to receive any nutrients from the foods we take in. It also takes one heck of a beating with environmental damage such as UV light, pollution, cold and heat extremes and so on.

 

Our skin needs topical nutrition and protection to be able to function properly. Vitamin A, C and E for example assist in healthy cell function, DNA repair and antioxidant protection.

 

However most people struggling with acne are overly focused on using cleansing type products that contain medications like peroxide, antibiotics, scrubs and harsh cleansers that they forget to nourish their skin all together.

Skin that is suffering from acne is inflammed, damaged and stressed so feeding it high quality nutrients to repair and calm makes sense doesn’t it?

High quality, medical grade skin care is a must when treating acne. A regular home care routine with the proper products will do most of the work!

What is Glycation?

Glycation is the process of a glucose (sugar) molecule binding with a protein (collagen and elastin) molecule in the body, causing the protein to become stiff and eventually break.

These damaged structures are known as advanced glycation end products, or appropriately abbreviated as “AGE’s”.

 

Collagen and elastin are the fibers that keep the skin plump, taught and youthful. These fibers, once damaged are not easily replaced by the body.

Scientists have proven that a rise in blood sugar levels causes inflammation on a cellular level throughout the entire body. This means when we eat processed or even natural sugary foods, that this will cause glycation in the skin, and this process helps to speed up aging and its negative effects.

Inflammation from this also causes free radicals to form which attack healthy compounds in the body. As if glycation alone wasn’t bad enough…

 

So what can you do about it? Cutting down on sugar intake will prevent glycation damage. To combat free radicals you need antioxidants. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, causing them to become inactive.

 

Antioxidants should be taken in orally and can be found in foods like berries, pomegranate, oranges , black plum, gala apples, sweet cherries, prunes, raisins, tomatoes, ginger, green vegetables like spinach, kale, broccoli and artichokes, nuts like pecans, walnuts, almonds, steel cut oats , quinoa, black beans, kidney beans and even chocolate (should be unprocessed dark and high in cacao content.)

 

Antioxidants can, and should also be applied topically to the skin with high quality professional skin care products.

 

Products containing vitamin A, C, E and certain extracts and enzymes that can be properly absorbed by the skin are best. This will help combat free radicals and even help to reverse their negative effects on the skin, inside and out.

Menopause and The Skin

Most people associate this condition with hot flashes, loss of menstruation and mood swings, but all of these symptoms are caused by hormone changes and hormones have a direct impact on the skin. The adrenal glands and ovaries of post-menopausal women secrete increased androgens (male hormones) and in the absence of estrogens (female hormones), this has a major impact on changing the physiology of the skin in new and different ways.

 

Dryness: During the reproductive years female hormones stimulate a more fluid, smooth sebaceous gland (oil gland) secretion; this oil along with other substances being secreted and excreted by the skin protects, moistens, cleans and maintains the pH balance of the skin. During menopause as female hormone levels decrease so do oil levels and this causes the skin to become dry, dull, delicate and more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Elasticity: Protein synthesis, like that of collagen and elastin are partially controlled by estrogens. During menopause, the lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed or has a history of long term exposure to ultra violet rays. UV rays actually break down these important proteins, and if we lose our repair mechanism then we lose our skin's resiliency. This results in elastosis.

 

Volume: Estrogens stimulate fat deposits in the female body; as estrogen levels drop during menopause, fat deposits tend to become redistributed and often concentrated over the abdomen and/or on the thighs and buttocks. The result is a loss of supportive fat tissue below the skin in areas like the face, neck, hands and arms; this causes sagging and wrinkling due to loss of volume.

 

Renewal: The growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of estrogens as well. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum (the bottom layer) of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate or cell renewal factor (“CRF” for short.) CRF is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the lowest layer of the Epidermis to the top layer, where it is eventually shed off. This process slows down dramatically with age and factors like diet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure all have a huge influence.

 

CRF by age

Babies: 14 days

Teenagers: 21 – 28 days

Adults: 28 – 42 days

50 and up: 42 – 84 days 

 

Pigment: The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. Melanin protects us from the sun by being released from the melanocytes after long periods of sun exposure, ultimately darkening the skin. The darker the skin, the longer it takes to absorb heat, light and energy. This is our body’s defense mechanism to try and slow the absorption of damaging UV rays. As menopause progresses, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced (they degenerate). With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Therefore, menopausal skin is more prone to sun damage, making it even more important to protect the skin with a proper sunblock.

 

So what can you do to help prevent and correct these problems? The most important thing anyone can do for their skin is have proper home care. You can go to all the fancy salons all you want but at the end of the day if you’re using harsh, incorrect and low quality products at home every day, you’ll be fighting (and most likely losing) an up-hill battle. Any skin, but especially mature, delicate and/or post-menopausal skin needs high quality, high concentrated and active ingredients.

 

-Vitamin A to correct sun damage and protect against future damage.

-Vitamin B3 for uneven skin tone, and increasing hydration.

-Vitamin B12 for healthy cell function.

-Vitamin C to address dullness, pigmentation and fight free radicals.

-Vitamin E for all of the above vitamin synergy and free radical protection.

 

The skin is the largest organ of the body but the last to receive any nutrients from the foods we eat. These vitamins are just the basics of what our skin needs every day.

The Science of Vitamin A

Vitamin A could easily be considered THE essential vitamin for the skin. It’s the only one that can not only reprogram, but repair DNA within the skin cells. This normalizes the cells and leads to a healthier function which can lead to the promotion of natural moisture, accelerated healing, normalizing of pigmentation and healthy collagen and elastin formation.

 

In fact, there is a direct correlation to skin cancer and vitamin A deficiency since skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA which leads to cell mutation. The depletion of vitamin A levels is a natural process that happens as we age, but is sped up by things like sun exposure, smoking, bad dietary habits and more.

 

As the skin becomes depleted, the cells lose their natural vitamin A receptors therefor losing the ability to absorb and use higher levels of vitamin A. Almost all medical grade skin care lines produce a retinol product.

 

This product will typically only come in one strength, and one strength only...the highest allowable level of vitamin A possible, usually as pure retinol. Companies will then instruct people to use their product a few times a week at night, with a warning that they will experience moderate to severe levels of redness, burning, dryness, discomfort and peeling. They often instruct to push through this reaction until the skin normalizes, which can take several weeks!

This is now thought to be the norm when using vitamin A products and some people have gone through such bad experiences attempting to use them that they’ve written off the idea of ever trying it again for good.

 

A retinoid reaction is what happens when the skin is exposed to high levels of vitamin A too quickly. Due to a natural depletion of vitamin A in the skin over the years, the cells lack receptors to absorb and use all the vitamin A.

 

Interestingly enough if you applied the same level of vitamin A product to a child’s skin, the reaction would likely be non-existent, or extremely mild as their skin still contains higher levels of the vitamin and therefor the proper receptors to process it. In an adult however, who has experienced long term depletion the result is the excess vitamin A sits around the cells causing massive irritation and forces the skin to purge.

 

This means a hyper production of skin cells to the point where physical shedding and peeling is experienced. The natural moisture barrier is disrupted; the skin becomes dry, inflamed, delicate and vulnerable. Many people experience sensitivity issues and thinning of the skin from the long term, and even short term use of products like this.

 

Even so, companies will stand by their products saying the dramatic shedding and healing response from the skin creates positive changes and is worth it. The industry has been saturated with the idea that using vitamin A means shocking your skin into getting the desired outcome.

 

However, there is no benefit to a retinoid reaction. In fact there are only downsides to be considered that lead to dehydration of the skin which increases textural problems and increases premature aging. It makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria, pollutants and damage.

 

A much more healthy and respectful way to introduce vitamin A is by applying only the level that the skin can absorb and use at that time. Starting off on low doses and increasing gradually to allow for vitamin A receptor development will ensure the skin can tolerate ultra-high doses eventually.

In the meantime the skins integrity is maintained and harsh reactions that can be painful, troublesome and damaging are avoided. Environ, which is now carried at Facial Esthetics One has a unique step-up system that feeds the skin only the appropriate level of vitamin A, which helps to stimulate, thicken and normalize.

 

Ultimately the health and function of the skin is increased to the point where the highest allowable doses of vitamin A are tolerated perfectly. The result is resilient, healthy, thick skin that will last a lifetime.