Why suffering through a retinoid reaction just isn't worth it.

If you've tried your fair share of skin care products over the years you've probably tried out some sort of vitamin A during that time. Most people are familiar with vitamin A as retinol, even though retinol is only one of the many different forms of vitamin A.

If you've tried a high dose vitamin A from your doctor, you likely would've been given a 1% Tretonoin cream which is retinoic acid.
If you've gone the medical grade route and have used vitamin A products from clinics you've likely tried 1% retinol creams, and if you've gone to stores like Shoppers or Sephora it's likely been a lower dose such as .25-.5% retinol product.

No matter where you've got your vitamin A product in the past, you've likely been given the same instructions...start using it at night a couple times a week and slowly increase the frequency of use while pushing through any irritation it may cause such as peeling, flaking, dryness, burning and inflammation. Why? Because if you can tolerate this uncomfortable reaction for several weeks...perfect skin is waiting at the end!! Or so they say.

Once again I'm here to burst that bubble!!! What can I say? It's sort of like a hobby of mine.

So here's the problem with that concept....
Skin cell walls are not easily penetrated. Only certain chemicals with distinct shapes can enter through different receptors on the wall. Retinoid receptors are responsible for allowing vitamin A to enter into a cell. Since there are many forms of vitamin A, not all the receptors are meant for retinol.
Some receptors will only allow retinoic acid, or retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate...you get the idea.

Another problem here is that as we age we naturally lose vitamin A from our skin and things like smoking or UV exposure quicken this process. As our skin becomes depleted in vitamin A, it also becomes depleted in retinoid receptors.

Suddenly the skin is flooded with an incredibly high dose of retinol and it simply can't use it all. The skin cells absorb what it can but seeing as how retinol only makes up 3% of the vitamin A in the skin, the majority of it sits around the cells and causes massive irritation. The skin reacts by purging and results in the peeling, burning and dryness....a retinoid reaction!

The most unnecessary, pointless, painful and embarrassing thing to go through that I've ever come across in this industry. Yet everyone believes this is the way to perfect skin, but usually because they're only regurgitating information that was given to them by the sales rep of companies who make products like these. Not because they know how the skin actually functions and how it is affected by different chemical substances.

The end result if someone can actually tolerate an on going retinoid reaction for that long until the skin acclimatizes is usually sensitive skin that is thinner than before, and likely more dehydrated too.
The constant inflammation and peeling caused from a retinoid reaction opens the skin up to more environmental damage such as dehydration, pollution, bacteria and can leave the skin hyper sensitive and prone to redness.
More often than not however, the ongoing reaction is not tolerated long enough for the skin to acclimatize and the use of the product is discontinued with the final impression being that vitamin A is awful and doesn't work.

There are so many vitamin A products on the market and sadly few of them are sophisticated enough    to work with the skin instead of against it. This is why vitamin A has acquired such a bad name over the years and is now thought of as a very harsh product to use.

The truth is vitamin A is vital for the skin and has many positive benefits such as anti-aging, normalizing the function of the skin and even repairing DNA damage caused from UV exposure.
So why is something as important as vitamin A not being formulated in a smarter way?
Well it is, but like I said it can be hard to find amongst the sea of 1% rip your face off strength retinol creams.

Environ makes all their vitamin A products in a step-up system and use a complex of several different forms of vitamin A to utilize all the different receptors on the skin cells. This means more of the vitamin A is actually used by the skin, is tolerated much better and makes the skin stronger.
By starting on a low dose and moving on to the higher doses, the skin can acclimatize to levels normally by making more retinoid receptors over time and therefor use the vitamin A properly and in a way that does not cause severe reactions.

Who would've thought that formulating a product according to how the skin functions would be a good idea?!

This is the main reason I swear by Environ products. They're smart, high quality, high concentrated products that are made from a company that actually has respect for the skin.


To book a consultation with me...
Call LAB11 Advanced Medical Aesthetics ‭(403) 283-0764‬

The Plateau Effect Explained

Ever wondered why some skin care seems great at first, but then just stops working for you after a while?

I come across this a lot during consultations with clients where I ask what line they're currently on. A lot of people will say "Well I'm using this (insert name here) brand and I actually really liked it at first, but now my skin has gone back to the way it was before. It's frustrating, nothing seems to work for me in the long term."

Some people get so fed up they stop using skin care all together and go back to plain old water and moisturizer while all the ghosts of their skin care past take up the space under their bathroom sink.
You're even picturing the exact cupboard all your old skin care is sitting in and collecting dust right now, aren't you?

It's alright...we've all done it, and we all have that cupboard!

No, you're not just imagining the lack of results. The skin plateaus since the skin care being used isn't made to progress the skin any further.

It's sort of like if you started a workout routine at the gym...10 minutes of cardio and 30 minutes of light weights...but did only that for the next 5 years.
Sure, you might notice an improvement in your fitness or muscle tone at first but without progressing to a more intense program to fit your new and improved level of fitness, you're never going to see anything more.

It's the same idea with your skin.
Most of us know there are 2 main layers to the skin. The dermis and epidermis. What you may not know is there are even more layers within these.
The epidermis is actually made up of 5 different layers and contrary to popular belief, it is very much alive. The only layer of the epidermis that is dead is the very top layer called the Stratum Corneum.

The dermis is made up of 2 different layers and is just above the layer of fat tissue, or subcutaneous tissue.

So without getting too far into the anatomy of the skin, my point is the skin is alive and is our barrier to the outside world. Beyond that it has many more jobs like heat regulation, sensation, secretion, excretion and absorption.

To do all those things properly it needs to be nourished, like any other part of our body does.
The skin needs vitamins, antioxidants and peptides (just to name a few) to function at its best.

But if you only ever feed your skin the same concentration/dosage of these things, it will never continue to improve. You will always plateau.
This is why so many people bounce around from one line to another. They're desperately trying to find something new to keep the results going, but unfortunately this chase usually ends in frustration and in money not-so-well spent.

Enter Environ!!!!

This is one of the reasons Environ has their unique step-up system.
They make different concentrations of their corrective serums and moisturizers to keep the improvements going and going.

Using the Youth-EssentiA C-Quence Serums (my all time favourite) as an example...you start on level 1 and it goes all the way up to 5.
Each serum lasts about three months so the skin has time to adjust to the dosage, improve, become stronger and repeat with each step up! This way you're constantly seeing positive changes.

...and I know what you're thinking, "What about when you get to level 5? Won't you just plateau at that point?"

NOOOO! That's the wonderful, amazing, ingeniousness that is Environ!!

Once you move up to the higher levels in the serums, you can start to add in Retinol (which also comes in two different levels) to further improve.

Now this is where it gets sort of tricky.

Since one of the very important jobs of the skin is to be our protection and barrier...when you make it stronger through vitamin therapy like this, it naturally becomes increasingly difficult for the vitamins and other nourishment in topical products to penetrate into the skin where it needs to be.

This is where cosmetic needling comes in!
I know, sounds sort of scary right? I promise it's really not!!

Environ makes a cosmetic needling device that you use at home for this very reason. Now that the skin has become so resilient and strong, we need to find a way to continue getting all the nourishment in the right place.

Imagine a miniature paint roller, except on the rolling head you have 0.1mm tiny needles.
They're only big enough to open microscopic pathways in the superficial layers of the skin so all the active ingredients applied afterwards, can get inside!

Even looking at the roller up close in person, it can be difficult to see the tiny needles at all. It sort of feels scratchy on the skin and can leave the face a little flushed for a few minutes afterwards, but that's only due to drawing extra blood flow to the area.
In case you're wondering, no! It does not cause any pin point bleeding at all! You'd have to use a roller with needles about 1mm in length to make that happen (just to give you a comparison).


In conclusion, that solves the on going mystery of why the initial improvement from typical skin care never seems to last. It's just not made to do anything more.

So, maybe it's time to switch over to something that will actually work for you in the long term and won't ever leave you feeling disappointed!!

Just sayin'!


To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email at lauraslasers@gmail.com

Why Environ Skin Care Is The Best Bang For Your Buck, By A Mile!!

It's definitely no secret that I truly believe Environ is the best skin care out there. 
I've been using it for over 5 years and I'm baffled at the transformation my skin has gone through. Not only in the way my skin looks, but in the way it functions as well.

As a skin health professional I also understand what it takes for a topical product to be effective and safe. There is nothing about Environ that doesn't make perfect sense to me.

Of course, I don't always expect people to simply take my word for it since almost anyone who sells skin care for a living will say their product is the best. For that reason people often take that statement with a grain of salt.

So, here's just a few reasons why investing in Environ is worth every single penny, and more.



No Fluff.

Environ doesn't use any "trendy" ingredients in any of their products.
I'm talking about things like 24 Karat Gold, caviar extract, coconut oil, plant stem cells...just to name a few.
Ingredients like these are recognizable, they seem fancy and therefor seem to justify the hefty price tag of the product.

In reality, they do diddly squat for your skin.

If I'm being honest the 24 Karat Gold thing particularly annoys me...how is applying a precious metal to your face going to make it healthier?! Our skin cells don't live off of gold people. Stop it already!

Anyways...
Environ only uses scientifically proven ingredients to feed, nourish and stimulate the skin. Things like vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Things that your cells can actually absorb and put to good use which will increase the quality and normalize the function of the skin.



It Respects The Skin.

When I first started at Facial Esthetics One the clinic had already brought on a different brand of skin care. I will not name names, but it just happened to be a line that I honestly loathe. It's comprised of harsh scrubs, strong retinols that can only be compared to something like battery acid and drying, irritating acid soaked wipes.

I simply couldn't sell the line. I haven't scrubbed my face in 6 years and I don't believe in punishing the skin to force the desired outcome. So, we eventually made the switch over to Environ!

Aaaaah, sweet relief.

To give one great example of what makes Environs approach so different, lets talk about vitamin A, which is the corner stone of Environ.

We naturally lose vitamin A as we age, and things like diet, sun exposure, pollutants and more cause the depletion of vitamin A in the skin to occur even faster.
Since we lose vitamin A from our skin, our skin cells therefor lose the ability to absorb it normally over time.

Few people understand that a deficiency of vitamin A in the skin leads to the development of major problems and contributes to aging and sun damage...and even skin cancer.

Most skin care lines produce some sort of vitamin A/retinol product however, more often than not there is only one strength made, and it's a potent strength!

The problem with this is the skins inability to absorb a high dose of vitamin A right off the bat like that, as a result the cells will absorb what they can but everything left over sits around the cells and irritates the entire area.

The skin reacts by purging which creates major inflammation, peeling, burning, dryness and therefor opens up the skin to more damage.
This is called a retinoid reaction and can lasts for several weeks while continuing to use a product like this. Eventually the skin is forced to adjust and absorb more vitamin A, but until then people tend to go through quite the uncomfortable, embarrassing and even painful reaction until the skin finally normalizes.

This has never made any sense to me since there is literally zero benefit in putting your skin through such a reaction.

On the flip side, Environ has a unique step-up system to introduce levels of vitamin A slowly allowing the skin time to adjust, normalize, strengthen and repeat!

All of their corrective serums come in four different strengths. This ensures the skins barrier is maintained, the integrity is not compromised, the skin is properly nourished and function is improved. Only good things come from doing it this way!
Over time the skin can easily tolerate the highest dose of vitamin A and is much stronger as a result.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, it's our barrier from the environment and it's what we present to everyone around us, so it deserves nothing but love and respect.



Science!!!

Environ is one of the few skin care ranges with its own sterile manufacturing facilities with dedicated chemists and state of the art technology.
All products are manufactured and filled under red light to protect light sensitive ingredients. They are also manufactured under a vacuum to prevent exposure to air which can denature active ingredients.

The packaging is specially designed to protect the product from light and air to ensure maximum hygiene and freshness.

Every single batch is scientifically tested by internationally accredited independent laboratories to check the chemical content and sterility of the product.

For this reason Environ is the only skincare brand in the world to carry the prestigious "Swiss Vitamin Institute" label on their products... no big deal!!
This guarantees the products contain the strength of ingredients that are declared by Environ and that consumers are getting a quality, highly active and effective product.



No Animal Testing.

Environ products are only tests on human volunteers and trials are conducted on more than 100 people over an 18 month period.
What a concept to test a skin care line intended for human skin...on human skin!
No bunnies required.



Standards.

Environ is only sold by professionals. You will never find it at a kiosk in the mall or hear that your girlfriend is now selling it from home as a side gig.

When Environ branches into a new clinic many steps are taken to educate the staff on everything Environ does, makes and why.

Personally I've never received such thorough training on any skincare line like I have on Environ.
The company does this because they are committed to quality and not just the physical quality of what they make, but the quality of product consultations and education that skin health professionals give each and everyone of their clients.

This is just one reasons why Environ doesn't do celebrity endorsements and very little advertising at all. The company has become so successful by creating real results through their products, and that gets noticed all on its own!


*Oh, I would also like to add for good measure that I have never been paid by Environ to promote their products.

I'm simply just a huge skincare snob (I'm not ashamed!!) and promote what I believe in.

The Science of Vitamin A

Vitamin A could easily be considered THE essential vitamin for the skin. It’s the only one that can not only reprogram, but repair DNA within the skin cells. This normalizes the cells and leads to a healthier function which can lead to the promotion of natural moisture, accelerated healing, normalizing of pigmentation and healthy collagen and elastin formation.

 

In fact, there is a direct correlation to skin cancer and vitamin A deficiency since skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA which leads to cell mutation. The depletion of vitamin A levels is a natural process that happens as we age, but is sped up by things like sun exposure, smoking, bad dietary habits and more.

 

As the skin becomes depleted, the cells lose their natural vitamin A receptors therefor losing the ability to absorb and use higher levels of vitamin A. Almost all medical grade skin care lines produce a retinol product.

 

This product will typically only come in one strength, and one strength only...the highest allowable level of vitamin A possible, usually as pure retinol. Companies will then instruct people to use their product a few times a week at night, with a warning that they will experience moderate to severe levels of redness, burning, dryness, discomfort and peeling. They often instruct to push through this reaction until the skin normalizes, which can take several weeks!

This is now thought to be the norm when using vitamin A products and some people have gone through such bad experiences attempting to use them that they’ve written off the idea of ever trying it again for good.

 

A retinoid reaction is what happens when the skin is exposed to high levels of vitamin A too quickly. Due to a natural depletion of vitamin A in the skin over the years, the cells lack receptors to absorb and use all the vitamin A.

 

Interestingly enough if you applied the same level of vitamin A product to a child’s skin, the reaction would likely be non-existent, or extremely mild as their skin still contains higher levels of the vitamin and therefor the proper receptors to process it. In an adult however, who has experienced long term depletion the result is the excess vitamin A sits around the cells causing massive irritation and forces the skin to purge.

 

This means a hyper production of skin cells to the point where physical shedding and peeling is experienced. The natural moisture barrier is disrupted; the skin becomes dry, inflamed, delicate and vulnerable. Many people experience sensitivity issues and thinning of the skin from the long term, and even short term use of products like this.

 

Even so, companies will stand by their products saying the dramatic shedding and healing response from the skin creates positive changes and is worth it. The industry has been saturated with the idea that using vitamin A means shocking your skin into getting the desired outcome.

 

However, there is no benefit to a retinoid reaction. In fact there are only downsides to be considered that lead to dehydration of the skin which increases textural problems and increases premature aging. It makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria, pollutants and damage.

 

A much more healthy and respectful way to introduce vitamin A is by applying only the level that the skin can absorb and use at that time. Starting off on low doses and increasing gradually to allow for vitamin A receptor development will ensure the skin can tolerate ultra-high doses eventually.

In the meantime the skins integrity is maintained and harsh reactions that can be painful, troublesome and damaging are avoided. Environ, which is now carried at Facial Esthetics One has a unique step-up system that feeds the skin only the appropriate level of vitamin A, which helps to stimulate, thicken and normalize.

 

Ultimately the health and function of the skin is increased to the point where the highest allowable doses of vitamin A are tolerated perfectly. The result is resilient, healthy, thick skin that will last a lifetime.