Popular Misconceptions About Skin Care

It can shrink your pores!!


Nope. Our skin type is determined by our genes and the size of our pores, oil glands and amount of hair follicles we have is something we're born with.

No skin care out there can change any of these things. However, people will often notice their pores appearing larger than normal because they're skin is congested. This is usually caused by oil impactions in the pore which essentially cause them to widen and "stretch".

What skin care CAN do for this is help dissolve that oil so the pore can relax and return to it's normal size. Things like acids and enzymes work best as they gently dissolve surface debris such as dead skin cells which makes it easier for the oil to come out. When used regularly debris on the surface is kept to a minimum and so the acids or enzymes can get to work on the oil inside the pores too.

I never recommend any kind of "quick fix" such as extractions for example. Yes, the process will help to purge the skin but when not done correctly it can actually be very damaging for the skin.
Also when improper products are being used at home, the problem will just come right back.

Regular use of a chemical exfoliant will treat the congestion but also prevent it from happening in the future.


A facial cleanser should leave you "squeaky clean".

No!! This is probably the most common mistake people make with their skin care. A cleanser should not leave you feeling tight, dry or squeaky clean.
All that means is you've removed your natural oil barrier called your acid mantle from the surface. This barrier is created by the skin and is an oil/water film. It's purpose is to keep the skin clean, protected and hydrated.
When removed, the oil glands in the skin kick into hyper drive and produce far more oil than normal to replace what was lost.

Ever experienced that gradual oil build up during the day that leaves you feeling super greasy and itching to go home and cleanse again? Yup. You're stripping your skin and it's a vicious cycle!
In the long term this can lead to premature aging, dehydration and more.

It can easily be fixed however by switching to a gentle cleanser, possibly even a lotion/milk cleanser that does not foam. A cleanser does not have to foam up to clean your skin, by the way.
The job of a cleanser is to change the pH of the skin, allowing impurities to come out. That's it, and you don't need foam for that!


All natural/organic skin care that doesn't contain any preservatives is the best.

In this day and age when everything is full of weird chemicals, hormones or grown with pesticides it's very easy to understand why people tend to gravitate to the seemingly most healthy and clean products.
When it comes to skin care formulation however it's a bit of a different story. A lot goes in to making products for the skin that are effective, active, stable, long lasting and healthy.

Even the containers that hold the products are extremely important! For example....
Lets say you have an all natural preservative free vitamin C lotion that is packaged in a twist off lid style jar.

The first problem with this is vitamin C is actually a very difficult vitamin to keep stable in a formulation. Second the fact that the jar is opened up each and every time the product is used is only exposing the vitamin to oxygen and light, causing it to break down at a very fast rate.

At the most basic level, oxidation is the loss of electrons. Some elements are more easily oxidized than others, which is what I'm referring to when I say vitamin C is a particularly difficult vitamin to keep stable. A stable molecule would have an equal number of electrons, so when oxidation occurs and the balance of electrons is changed and becomes unbalance...you now have a free radical.


So that all natural, preservative free jar of vitamin C cream that you think is so healthy, quickly turns to a jar of free radicals especially when it's constantly exposed to light and oxygen. This process actually happens very quickly and may only take a couple days before most of the vitamin C is destroyed.

Follow me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

What The Answer To These Simple Questions Can Reveal About Your Skin!!

People are often surprised at what kind of, and how many questions I ask them during their initial consultation with me.
I go over everything with a fine tooth comb so I can gather enough information to figure out what their skin type really is (and not just what they think it is), what their skin needs and isn't getting, what their skin doesn't need but may be getting anyways, how sensitive their skin may be and if it's a true sensitive skin type or if it's sensitivity that's being caused by vitamin deficiency.

There's so much to learn from asking very simple questions. Unfortunately a lot of my clients who have seen other skin care professionals/laser technicians in the past often tell me they've never been asked these questions before.

Of course, everyone in the industry has their own ways of doing what they do. For me this method has proven to be very successful in helping me identify what specific products someone needs and why. 
It's extremely rare that anyone who has started on a new skin care regimen with me has not been over the moon about how it changes the way their skin feels (usually within the first use) and how it looks and functions in the long term too.


So let me share just a couple of my secrets with all of you....

After learning what they're currently using, how often and in what order etc...

My first question usually refers to the cleanser.
"After you finish cleansing and pat your skin dry, before continuing to the next step...how does your skin feel?"

Nine times out of ten people say "tight and dry."This is important even if it's a mild feeling.
This means the cleanser is disrupting the natural moisture barrier of the skin called the "acid mantle."
The acid mantle is a oil/water film that is produced by the skin and acts as protection from dehydration, bacteria and damage from other environmental elements.

When disrupted or removed completely (you know that squeaky clean feeling?!) it actually stimulates the oil glands in the skin to produce more oil to replace what was lost.
Hence my next question...

"How does your skin feel around lunch time on your average day?"
Again usually the answer is "greasy" or "a little oily".

The oil glands are working over time! This is especially a big problem if someone is prone to breakouts or has acne.

"How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"
The response to this question is usually something like "I can't wait to get home, take my make up off and wash my face!"

Someone who experiences this would likely be an oily skin type.

These people tend to save the extra strong, foamy cleanser for the evening because they feel so much build up on their skin. Of course, that means the skin is being stripped once again...
It's a vicious cycle that can be fixed with simply changing the cleanser to something that does not foam and leaves the acid mantle intact.

That's why I love the Mild Cleansing Lotion and the Hydra-Intense Cleansing Lotion from Environ.
Neither of these cleansers foam therefor they leave the acid mantle intact and the skin comfortable. This actually calms down the oil glands and people usually notice their skin feels more balanced within the first use.

Next question if the person is using a toner is...
"Does the toner feel cooling on your skin?"

If yes, this is a sign that toner is actually more like an astringent and is full of alcohol that is going to suck the skin dry of any moisture. Not good!

A true toner balances the pH of the skin and should have something more to give rather than taking something away from the skin.
This is exactly why my first love from Environ was their Moisturizing Toner. After two weeks of daily use I was noticing my complexion evening out and my skin becoming brighter. I was hooked!

It of course balances the pH of the skin but it also has lactic acid to gently exfoliate and draw moisture (which is why it's appropriate for dry and sensitive skin types too) as well as botanicals and vitamins to calm and feed the skin.


Now, going back to that same question "How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"

Sometimes people are unsure how to respond because their skin feels oily on the surface or just in specific areas like the t-zone, but it also feels tight and dry underneath or in specific areas like the cheeks/chin. Their skin may even start to flake at this point. So they're unsure if they're an oily skin type or dry skin type!

Usually they go home, over cleanse to remove the excess oil and apply the thickest heaviest moisturizer they can find in an attempt to hydrate their skin. Again, another vicious circle.

Someone that experiences this would be a dry skin type, or at least prone to dryness. Since their cleanser is stripping the acid mantle from their skin it is now open to dehydration.

In Calgary we have a dry atmosphere (just in case you didn't already know that!) and what happens now is called Transepidermal Water Loss, or "TEWL" for short.
This is the process where water molecules from the skin are evaporated into the surrounding atmosphere, causing dehydration.

Again, a problem that can easily be fixed with changing over to the correct products that would keep the acid mantle intact, draw moisture and penetrate the skin to properly hydrate.
That thick heavy night cream is only going to sit on the surface and give the feeling of relief while the product is on. Once it's washed off your skin is back to square one.

A serum is actually better at correcting dryness since it has a much thinner viscosity and when formulated properly, can actually go inside the skin to help fix the problem instead of just masking it.

That's just one of the many, many reasons I love the C-Quence Serum from Environ. It absorbs so quickly and feels so light, yet it's so powerful...and becomes even more powerful as you move onto the higher levels! It's a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to feed, nourish and correct the skin.

If someone has a true dry skin type and finds the serum isn't enough in terms of moisture, that's where the C-Quence Crème would come in! The Crème can be applied on top of the serum to not only provide additional moisture but also boost the levels of antioxidants and peptides for a potent anti-aging effect.


So as you can see, just a couple simple questions can actually reveal a lot about someone's skin!




To book a complimentary consultation with me to talk about Environ or anything else...

Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
Instagram: @lauras_lasers

Of All Laser and Light Treatments...This Is The Most Dangerous And It's Probably Not What You Think!

With so many different laser and light treatments out there, it can really seem to be overwhelming.
Many people I meet put off exploring these kinds of treatments because they feel like they just don't know where to start, and I'll agree that it can seem pretty intimidating.

I always encourage everyone to do their research or "home work" on the clinic and treatment provider before committing to any kind of treatment plan at all. There are dozens of wavelengths that make lasers different from one another many and different companies that make lasers, which differ in quality.

Of course even if you find a clinic with the most high-tech equipment, the laser technician has to know how to use that piece of equipment properly and have the understanding of the skin, energy, tissue interaction and the condition which they're treating.
It's all actually very complicated and we've all heard one or two horror stories out there from a laser treatment gone bad.

That's why it's so important to find someone with experience and proper education. Since the industry isn't regulated, that responsibility falls on the client.
To clarify, no...you don't need any training or education to treat someone with a laser.
Scary, right? Tell me about it.

You may be wondering "Clinics don't actually hire just anyone, do they?"
Well yes, some do.
I've seen clinics convert their receptionist or manager to "Laser Tech" and suddenly they're treating people to remove hair, to do ablative skin resurfacing and even internal vaginal rejuvenation treatments.

The benefit for the clinic owner is a less expensive "technician" since they have zero experience, they don't get paid as much, and the benefit for the client is.......

Hmmmm, you might have to give me a minute for that one.......scratch that.

It's simply unfair to the client as treatments can be quite pricey and don't come without risks.
Common risks you may see on a consent form for a laser treatment are burns, blisters, scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, infection and permanent eye damage.

Just to name a few.

You may be thinking those risks listed would only show up on a more aggressive kind of laser treatment, right? Well no.
All those things listed above are quite possible even with an innocent laser hair removal treatment.

You may also be wondering what treatment carries the most risk? You're probably wondering that because it's the title of this blog...so ok, I'm getting there.

The treatment that is the most risky, which just also happens to be one of the most popular and well-liked is an IPL which stands for "Intense Pulsed Light".
Also called BBL which stands for "Broad Band Light" or simply called Photofacials.
They're all the same thing.

This is actually not a laser at all, it's light. What makes the two different is a laser is one concentrated beam of energy and contains one wavelength from the light spectrum.

Whereas as IPL or BBL contains multiple wavelengths and is scattered. While a laser being a concentrated beam of energy sounds way more scary than a scattered light...it is actually easier to hurt someone with an IPL than it is a laser.

Since an IPL contains multiple wavelengths and each different wavelength absorbs into certain things like melanin, hemoglobin or water all differently, you have more absorption into different targets all at the same time which is what makes it so much more risky.
The parameters (settings) that are dialled in by the technician have to be ON POINT for the treatment to walk that fine line of effective, yet safe.

To do that the technician should have a solid understanding of the light spectrum and tissue interaction. Sadly not a lot do.
The most common thing I hear from people who have had Photofacials is that they found the treatments ineffective.

This is common since a technician who isn't experienced will often shy away from stronger settings and simply under treat. So sure they're not burning people, but they're also not giving them what they paid for and the client is left disappointed.


Just another reason to do your research on who you trust your face to!


Go to my Instagram page @Lauras_Lasers to see my work, message me if you have any questions or to book a consultation!

The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging

Balance:

This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
 By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.

I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.

As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.

A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.

My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.



Nourish:

A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!

Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.

Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.

This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.



Protect:

Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.

It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.

So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.



 Stimulate:

As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.

It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.

Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.

Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.

The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!

Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.

By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!

A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!

In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.

That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start  there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.

What is Glycation?

Glycation is the process of a glucose (sugar) molecule binding with a protein (collagen and elastin) molecule in the body, causing the protein to become stiff and eventually break.

These damaged structures are known as advanced glycation end products, or appropriately abbreviated as “AGE’s”.

 

Collagen and elastin are the fibers that keep the skin plump, taught and youthful. These fibers, once damaged are not easily replaced by the body.

Scientists have proven that a rise in blood sugar levels causes inflammation on a cellular level throughout the entire body. This means when we eat processed or even natural sugary foods, that this will cause glycation in the skin, and this process helps to speed up aging and its negative effects.

Inflammation from this also causes free radicals to form which attack healthy compounds in the body. As if glycation alone wasn’t bad enough…

 

So what can you do about it? Cutting down on sugar intake will prevent glycation damage. To combat free radicals you need antioxidants. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, causing them to become inactive.

 

Antioxidants should be taken in orally and can be found in foods like berries, pomegranate, oranges , black plum, gala apples, sweet cherries, prunes, raisins, tomatoes, ginger, green vegetables like spinach, kale, broccoli and artichokes, nuts like pecans, walnuts, almonds, steel cut oats , quinoa, black beans, kidney beans and even chocolate (should be unprocessed dark and high in cacao content.)

 

Antioxidants can, and should also be applied topically to the skin with high quality professional skin care products.

 

Products containing vitamin A, C, E and certain extracts and enzymes that can be properly absorbed by the skin are best. This will help combat free radicals and even help to reverse their negative effects on the skin, inside and out.

Menopause and The Skin

Most people associate this condition with hot flashes, loss of menstruation and mood swings, but all of these symptoms are caused by hormone changes and hormones have a direct impact on the skin. The adrenal glands and ovaries of post-menopausal women secrete increased androgens (male hormones) and in the absence of estrogens (female hormones), this has a major impact on changing the physiology of the skin in new and different ways.

 

Dryness: During the reproductive years female hormones stimulate a more fluid, smooth sebaceous gland (oil gland) secretion; this oil along with other substances being secreted and excreted by the skin protects, moistens, cleans and maintains the pH balance of the skin. During menopause as female hormone levels decrease so do oil levels and this causes the skin to become dry, dull, delicate and more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Elasticity: Protein synthesis, like that of collagen and elastin are partially controlled by estrogens. During menopause, the lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed or has a history of long term exposure to ultra violet rays. UV rays actually break down these important proteins, and if we lose our repair mechanism then we lose our skin's resiliency. This results in elastosis.

 

Volume: Estrogens stimulate fat deposits in the female body; as estrogen levels drop during menopause, fat deposits tend to become redistributed and often concentrated over the abdomen and/or on the thighs and buttocks. The result is a loss of supportive fat tissue below the skin in areas like the face, neck, hands and arms; this causes sagging and wrinkling due to loss of volume.

 

Renewal: The growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of estrogens as well. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum (the bottom layer) of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate or cell renewal factor (“CRF” for short.) CRF is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the lowest layer of the Epidermis to the top layer, where it is eventually shed off. This process slows down dramatically with age and factors like diet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure all have a huge influence.

 

CRF by age

Babies: 14 days

Teenagers: 21 – 28 days

Adults: 28 – 42 days

50 and up: 42 – 84 days 

 

Pigment: The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. Melanin protects us from the sun by being released from the melanocytes after long periods of sun exposure, ultimately darkening the skin. The darker the skin, the longer it takes to absorb heat, light and energy. This is our body’s defense mechanism to try and slow the absorption of damaging UV rays. As menopause progresses, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced (they degenerate). With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Therefore, menopausal skin is more prone to sun damage, making it even more important to protect the skin with a proper sunblock.

 

So what can you do to help prevent and correct these problems? The most important thing anyone can do for their skin is have proper home care. You can go to all the fancy salons all you want but at the end of the day if you’re using harsh, incorrect and low quality products at home every day, you’ll be fighting (and most likely losing) an up-hill battle. Any skin, but especially mature, delicate and/or post-menopausal skin needs high quality, high concentrated and active ingredients.

 

-Vitamin A to correct sun damage and protect against future damage.

-Vitamin B3 for uneven skin tone, and increasing hydration.

-Vitamin B12 for healthy cell function.

-Vitamin C to address dullness, pigmentation and fight free radicals.

-Vitamin E for all of the above vitamin synergy and free radical protection.

 

The skin is the largest organ of the body but the last to receive any nutrients from the foods we eat. These vitamins are just the basics of what our skin needs every day.

The Science of Vitamin A

Vitamin A could easily be considered THE essential vitamin for the skin. It’s the only one that can not only reprogram, but repair DNA within the skin cells. This normalizes the cells and leads to a healthier function which can lead to the promotion of natural moisture, accelerated healing, normalizing of pigmentation and healthy collagen and elastin formation.

 

In fact, there is a direct correlation to skin cancer and vitamin A deficiency since skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA which leads to cell mutation. The depletion of vitamin A levels is a natural process that happens as we age, but is sped up by things like sun exposure, smoking, bad dietary habits and more.

 

As the skin becomes depleted, the cells lose their natural vitamin A receptors therefor losing the ability to absorb and use higher levels of vitamin A. Almost all medical grade skin care lines produce a retinol product.

 

This product will typically only come in one strength, and one strength only...the highest allowable level of vitamin A possible, usually as pure retinol. Companies will then instruct people to use their product a few times a week at night, with a warning that they will experience moderate to severe levels of redness, burning, dryness, discomfort and peeling. They often instruct to push through this reaction until the skin normalizes, which can take several weeks!

This is now thought to be the norm when using vitamin A products and some people have gone through such bad experiences attempting to use them that they’ve written off the idea of ever trying it again for good.

 

A retinoid reaction is what happens when the skin is exposed to high levels of vitamin A too quickly. Due to a natural depletion of vitamin A in the skin over the years, the cells lack receptors to absorb and use all the vitamin A.

 

Interestingly enough if you applied the same level of vitamin A product to a child’s skin, the reaction would likely be non-existent, or extremely mild as their skin still contains higher levels of the vitamin and therefor the proper receptors to process it. In an adult however, who has experienced long term depletion the result is the excess vitamin A sits around the cells causing massive irritation and forces the skin to purge.

 

This means a hyper production of skin cells to the point where physical shedding and peeling is experienced. The natural moisture barrier is disrupted; the skin becomes dry, inflamed, delicate and vulnerable. Many people experience sensitivity issues and thinning of the skin from the long term, and even short term use of products like this.

 

Even so, companies will stand by their products saying the dramatic shedding and healing response from the skin creates positive changes and is worth it. The industry has been saturated with the idea that using vitamin A means shocking your skin into getting the desired outcome.

 

However, there is no benefit to a retinoid reaction. In fact there are only downsides to be considered that lead to dehydration of the skin which increases textural problems and increases premature aging. It makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria, pollutants and damage.

 

A much more healthy and respectful way to introduce vitamin A is by applying only the level that the skin can absorb and use at that time. Starting off on low doses and increasing gradually to allow for vitamin A receptor development will ensure the skin can tolerate ultra-high doses eventually.

In the meantime the skins integrity is maintained and harsh reactions that can be painful, troublesome and damaging are avoided. Environ, which is now carried at Facial Esthetics One has a unique step-up system that feeds the skin only the appropriate level of vitamin A, which helps to stimulate, thicken and normalize.

 

Ultimately the health and function of the skin is increased to the point where the highest allowable doses of vitamin A are tolerated perfectly. The result is resilient, healthy, thick skin that will last a lifetime.