Skin Lighteners and Brighteners vs Skin Bleachers....What's The Difference?

I can't stress enough how important it is to do your research before trusting your face to someone, but to questions any before and after photos you may come across too.

Whether it's results from treatment or skin care product, it's important to ask lots of questions...
"Is this treatment/product healthy for the skin?"
"How many treatments did it take to achieve this result?"
"How long was this product used for?"
"Can this product be used indefinitely without any negative side effects?"
"Were injectables like Botox or Dermal Fillers used along with this product or treatment?"

Just to list a few.

I personally see a lot of before and after photos floating around Instagram or Facebook showing the apparent "incredible results" on hyperpigmentation or Melasma from simply using topical products.
To be honest this always makes me cringe a little because I know that there are so many people out there seeing these pictures who don't know the difference between results that came from a healthy and respectable way of treating the skin, and results that came from the exact opposite kind of treatment.

I've always preached about healthy and sustainable ways to treat the skin since my goal is not to just make the problem go away, but instead treat the problem and find a great solution that also makes the skin stronger and healthier throughout the process.

When it comes to something like hyperpigmentation from sun exposure or discoloured marks left over from breakouts, or hormonal pigment like Melasma there are a few different topical options to choose from.

Lets start with my favourite (insert sarcastic eye roll here) ....bleaching agents!!
The most common is something called Hydroquinone or "HQ" for short. This is a chemical that has actually been banned in several countries due to the fact that it's a potential carcinogen to humans.
It's been proven to cause cancer in rats. Wonderful!
Hydroquinone works by essentially poisoning the pigment (melanin) producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.
It seems to "work" very quickly and often makes people very happy as a result, but hang on!
It comes with a catch.

When used for too long, the HQ can kill off melanocytes all together and once a melanocyte has died it does not regenerate. So, instead of hyperpigmentation, you're now left with permanent hypopigmentation which looks like white splotches in the skin.
If the use of the product is discontinued before this point (since you can't use it indefinitely) the damage done to the melanocytes is repaired and they kick into high gear with a vengeance!
The problem often comes back but far worse than it ever was in the first place.

This is not a healthy or sustainable option. End of story.

On the flip side skin lighteners and brighteners such as vitamin c, kojic acid, licorice root for example are technically known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is a nonessential amino acid made by the body which is a building block for several important neurotransmitters like epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine. In the skin it's responsible for communicating with the melanocytes, signaling them to make melanin.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root all work by blocking that signal to the melanocyte, therefor diminishing the production of melanin. This is not harmful to the skin whatsoever and can be used forever with only positive benefits!

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant which aids in sun protection, healthy collagen production and neutralizes free radicals.
Kojic acid has antimicrobial properties and licorice root is an anti-inflammatory, is also an antioxidant and helps to regulate oil production in the skin.
All great things!!

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Popular Misconceptions About Skin Care

It can shrink your pores!!


Nope. Our skin type is determined by our genes and the size of our pores, oil glands and amount of hair follicles we have is something we're born with.

No skin care out there can change any of these things. However, people will often notice their pores appearing larger than normal because they're skin is congested. This is usually caused by oil impactions in the pore which essentially cause them to widen and "stretch".

What skin care CAN do for this is help dissolve that oil so the pore can relax and return to it's normal size. Things like acids and enzymes work best as they gently dissolve surface debris such as dead skin cells which makes it easier for the oil to come out. When used regularly debris on the surface is kept to a minimum and so the acids or enzymes can get to work on the oil inside the pores too.

I never recommend any kind of "quick fix" such as extractions for example. Yes, the process will help to purge the skin but when not done correctly it can actually be very damaging for the skin.
Also when improper products are being used at home, the problem will just come right back.

Regular use of a chemical exfoliant will treat the congestion but also prevent it from happening in the future.


A facial cleanser should leave you "squeaky clean".

No!! This is probably the most common mistake people make with their skin care. A cleanser should not leave you feeling tight, dry or squeaky clean.
All that means is you've removed your natural oil barrier called your acid mantle from the surface. This barrier is created by the skin and is an oil/water film. It's purpose is to keep the skin clean, protected and hydrated.
When removed, the oil glands in the skin kick into hyper drive and produce far more oil than normal to replace what was lost.

Ever experienced that gradual oil build up during the day that leaves you feeling super greasy and itching to go home and cleanse again? Yup. You're stripping your skin and it's a vicious cycle!
In the long term this can lead to premature aging, dehydration and more.

It can easily be fixed however by switching to a gentle cleanser, possibly even a lotion/milk cleanser that does not foam. A cleanser does not have to foam up to clean your skin, by the way.
The job of a cleanser is to change the pH of the skin, allowing impurities to come out. That's it, and you don't need foam for that!


All natural/organic skin care that doesn't contain any preservatives is the best.

In this day and age when everything is full of weird chemicals, hormones or grown with pesticides it's very easy to understand why people tend to gravitate to the seemingly most healthy and clean products.
When it comes to skin care formulation however it's a bit of a different story. A lot goes in to making products for the skin that are effective, active, stable, long lasting and healthy.

Even the containers that hold the products are extremely important! For example....
Lets say you have an all natural preservative free vitamin C lotion that is packaged in a twist off lid style jar.

The first problem with this is vitamin C is actually a very difficult vitamin to keep stable in a formulation. Second the fact that the jar is opened up each and every time the product is used is only exposing the vitamin to oxygen and light, causing it to break down at a very fast rate.

At the most basic level, oxidation is the loss of electrons. Some elements are more easily oxidized than others, which is what I'm referring to when I say vitamin C is a particularly difficult vitamin to keep stable. A stable molecule would have an equal number of electrons, so when oxidation occurs and the balance of electrons is changed and becomes unbalance...you now have a free radical.


So that all natural, preservative free jar of vitamin C cream that you think is so healthy, quickly turns to a jar of free radicals especially when it's constantly exposed to light and oxygen. This process actually happens very quickly and may only take a couple days before most of the vitamin C is destroyed.

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The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging

Balance:

This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
 By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.

I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.

As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.

A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.

My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.



Nourish:

A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!

Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.

Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.

This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.



Protect:

Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.

It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.

So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.



 Stimulate:

As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.

It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.

Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.

Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.

The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!

Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.

By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!

A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!

In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.

That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start  there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.

Tanning...What Your Skin Is Desperately Trying To Tell You.

We've all heard the saying that a tan gives a "healthy glow". This day and age everyone is after that sun kissed look whether it's by indoor tanning, laying outside or sunless spray tans.

I find this funny since if you think about how back in the 18th century, it was actually more desirable to be extremely fair as this meant you had the means to protect yourself from the elements and did not have to work outside.
Royalty even went to the lengths of applying white powder on their faces to appear even more fair,  almost resembling porcelain dolls along with the white wigs they also sported.

Somewhere along the line the idea of a tan completely changed and it's now viewed as something desirable that makes you appear as if you've just been on vacation in a beautiful sunny destination.

No matter how you view a tan or what kind of impression it gives you, the fact remains the same that tan skin, is damaged skin. Turns out those in the 18th century had it right all along!

I'm specifically talking about tans from UV rays...at least for now. Trust me, I'll get to those spray tans in just a minute.

Have you ever wondered why our skin turns darker from sunlight? Probably not right? Our bodies are so amazing and they do so many different things, who has time to ponder every little purpose am I right?

You might be surprised to learn that this is your skins natural defence mechanism.

UVA rays are the rays that cause tanning and are the more damaging, and therefor ageing rays. They penetrate into the skin much deeper than UVB rays do. They can even reach the subcutaneous tissue (fat tissue) beneath the dermis.

UV rays are from the spectrum of light which is ionizing, the same spectrum that x-rays and gamma rays are categorized in. This means that these rays are capable of altering atoms and molecules by removing one or more electrons from them.
This then creates an unstable molecule or atom (also known as a free radical) and these carry on to cause havoc to others around them, repeating the process.

This chain reaction can eventually lead to DNA damage, which can then lead to mutations of cells...
as in skin cancer! Not to mention the rays will also breakdown collagen and elastin in the process which is the protien fibers in the skin that keep us looking youthful, healthy, firm and plump.

So what does your skin do to help protect you? It senses the damage being done and sends out signals to the pigment producing cells called melanocytes.
These cells create melanin (the chemical that gives our eyes, hair and skin colour) and it rises to the surface.

Aaaaah, there you have it. A tan!

But how is this pigment going to protect you, you might ask. Take a natural red head, with blue eyes and fair skin and a brown skinned person with dark eyes and hair. Make them stand outside on a hot summer day with not a cloud in the sky. Who do you think is going to burn first?

The more pigment (melanin) you have in your skin, the more natural protection you have from the sun since melanin is designed to absorb light. Hence the natural defence of producing more melanin in a state of crisis.

So, that all being said (and I know it was a lot) tan skin is skin that has already been damaged. Period. This is also why there is no such thing as a "base tan". The damage has already been done, you're simply intensifying it and making it happen even faster in a tanning bed where the concentrations of UV light are much stronger than natural sunlight outside.

Now to touch on spray tans quickly...

As a general rule if an at home tanning product, or professional spray tan goes on as one colour and darkens over a few hours afterwards...this is stimulating melanocyte activity in the skin. Not a good thing! This can be a disaster for those who struggle with hormonal pigment problems such as Melasma, or who already have sun damage in their skin. It will darken Melasma and sun spots, making them more noticeable and harder to remove/lighten.

For those products that go on and one colour and remain the same colour...these are ok since they're simply "dying" the top layer of dead cells on the skin to look darker.

In my opinion though...save your money and sport your natural and beautiful skin tone, whatever tone that may be.
Rock the pale, rock the fair skin or naturally sun kissed colour you were born with. Take that money and invest in your skins health by using high quality nourishing skin care, by using sunscreen and get that healthy glow by being...well, healthy!! Rather than frying your poor skin to death!

The Miracle of Collagen Creams! ...Not.

We’ve all seen them…beautifully packaged and yummy smelling body or face lotions (that can also come with a serious price tag!) that promise firmer, younger looking skin. The secret ingredient? Collagen of course!

 

Collagen is the sexy protein fiber in the skin that gives it structure, firmness and therefor youthfulness! The younger you are, the more of it you’ll have! Due to natural aging, sun exposure, diet and other factors we lose collagen as we age (about 1-2% each year), so doesn’t it make sense to start applying it on our skin every day to stay looking young forever?

 

Well…no.

 

I have to give it to the skincare companies marketing angles, I mean it works right? We see the word collagen and immediately think “Anti-aging in a bottle! I must have it!”

 

The sad reality is this is just a great way to sell products. Similar to other gimmicky ingredients like activated charcoal, 24 karat gold, Australian clay, Co-Enzyme Q10, Himalayan salt, algae, fish caviar extract, plant stem cells, coconut oil, snail mucus…please, someone stop me. I can’t even.

 

There are simply too many of these ingredients to name but they all serve the very same purpose, to sell sell sell! And unfortunately your skin doesn’t actually benefit much. The size of a collagen molecule is huge when you’re talking about a substances ability to penetrate into the skin, which is meant to keep things out! It would be like trying to get a whole cucumber to fit through a spaghetti strainer, it just ain’t happening.

 

Why don’t we just say, for fun, that collagen could penetrate into the skin. Skin care products don’t contain human collagen; they typically contain bovine (cow) or fish collagen. Okay, so now we have a different species collagen in our skin. What is it going to do? Is it going to magically intertwine with our own collagen to give us more?? Nope! Even if it was human collagen it still doesn’t work that way.

 

Collagen is produced in the skin by cells called fibroblasts. Fibroblasts need nourishment such vitamin A, C and peptides to make lots of healthy collagen and elastin. Peptides are chains of amino acids and are specifically formulated into skin care to stimulate collagen production. Laser and light treatments will also stimulate healthy collagen production as this is your skins way of healing, by producing collagen.

 

Therefore, if you’re going to invest your hard earned money into the health of your skin you should invest in the right products to do so. Don’t go for the hottest trending product. Choose professionals who can sell you medical grade, top of the line skin care proven by science and facts.

 

Oh, and that collagen laced cream you just splurged on? Best possible outcome is it’s going to bring a little more moisture to the surface of your skin, since collagen does hold some water. That’s about it though.