Showing posts with label health. Show all posts
Showing posts with label health. Show all posts
Saturday, 15 July 2017
Why Environ Skin Care Is The Best Bang For Your Buck, By A Mile!!
It's definitely no secret that I truly believe Environ is the best skin care out there.
I've been using it for over 5 years and I'm baffled at the transformation my skin has gone through. Not only in the way my skin looks, but in the way it functions as well.
As a skin health professional I also understand what it takes for a topical product to be effective and safe. There is nothing about Environ that doesn't make perfect sense to me.
Of course, I don't always expect people to simply take my word for it since almost anyone who sells skin care for a living will say their product is the best. For that reason people often take that statement with a grain of salt.
So, here's just a few reasons why investing in Environ is worth every single penny, and more.
No Fluff.
Environ doesn't use any "trendy" ingredients in any of their products.
I'm talking about things like 24 Karat Gold, caviar extract, coconut oil, plant stem cells...just to name a few.
Ingredients like these are recognizable, they seem fancy and therefor seem to justify the hefty price tag of the product.
In reality, they do diddly squat for your skin.
If I'm being honest the 24 Karat Gold thing particularly annoys me...how is applying a precious metal to your face going to make it healthier?! Our skin cells don't live off of gold people. Stop it already!
Anyways...
Environ only uses scientifically proven ingredients to feed, nourish and stimulate the skin. Things like vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Things that your cells can actually absorb and put to good use which will increase the quality and normalize the function of the skin.
It Respects The Skin.
When I first started at Facial Esthetics One the clinic had already brought on a different brand of skin care. I will not name names, but it just happened to be a line that I honestly loathe. It's comprised of harsh scrubs, strong retinols that can only be compared to something like battery acid and drying, irritating acid soaked wipes.
I simply couldn't sell the line. I haven't scrubbed my face in 6 years and I don't believe in punishing the skin to force the desired outcome. So, we eventually made the switch over to Environ!
Aaaaah, sweet relief.
To give one great example of what makes Environs approach so different, lets talk about vitamin A, which is the corner stone of Environ.
We naturally lose vitamin A as we age, and things like diet, sun exposure, pollutants and more cause the depletion of vitamin A in the skin to occur even faster.
Since we lose vitamin A from our skin, our skin cells therefor lose the ability to absorb it normally over time.
Few people understand that a deficiency of vitamin A in the skin leads to the development of major problems and contributes to aging and sun damage...and even skin cancer.
Most skin care lines produce some sort of vitamin A/retinol product however, more often than not there is only one strength made, and it's a potent strength!
The problem with this is the skins inability to absorb a high dose of vitamin A right off the bat like that, as a result the cells will absorb what they can but everything left over sits around the cells and irritates the entire area.
The skin reacts by purging which creates major inflammation, peeling, burning, dryness and therefor opens up the skin to more damage.
This is called a retinoid reaction and can lasts for several weeks while continuing to use a product like this. Eventually the skin is forced to adjust and absorb more vitamin A, but until then people tend to go through quite the uncomfortable, embarrassing and even painful reaction until the skin finally normalizes.
This has never made any sense to me since there is literally zero benefit in putting your skin through such a reaction.
On the flip side, Environ has a unique step-up system to introduce levels of vitamin A slowly allowing the skin time to adjust, normalize, strengthen and repeat!
All of their corrective serums come in four different strengths. This ensures the skins barrier is maintained, the integrity is not compromised, the skin is properly nourished and function is improved. Only good things come from doing it this way!
Over time the skin can easily tolerate the highest dose of vitamin A and is much stronger as a result.
The skin is the largest organ of the body, it's our barrier from the environment and it's what we present to everyone around us, so it deserves nothing but love and respect.
Science!!!
Environ is one of the few skin care ranges with its own sterile manufacturing facilities with dedicated chemists and state of the art technology.
All products are manufactured and filled under red light to protect light sensitive ingredients. They are also manufactured under a vacuum to prevent exposure to air which can denature active ingredients.
The packaging is specially designed to protect the product from light and air to ensure maximum hygiene and freshness.
Every single batch is scientifically tested by internationally accredited independent laboratories to check the chemical content and sterility of the product.
For this reason Environ is the only skincare brand in the world to carry the prestigious "Swiss Vitamin Institute" label on their products... no big deal!!
This guarantees the products contain the strength of ingredients that are declared by Environ and that consumers are getting a quality, highly active and effective product.
No Animal Testing.
Environ products are only tests on human volunteers and trials are conducted on more than 100 people over an 18 month period.
What a concept to test a skin care line intended for human skin...on human skin!
No bunnies required.
Standards.
Environ is only sold by professionals. You will never find it at a kiosk in the mall or hear that your girlfriend is now selling it from home as a side gig.
When Environ branches into a new clinic many steps are taken to educate the staff on everything Environ does, makes and why.
Personally I've never received such thorough training on any skincare line like I have on Environ.
The company does this because they are committed to quality and not just the physical quality of what they make, but the quality of product consultations and education that skin health professionals give each and everyone of their clients.
This is just one reasons why Environ doesn't do celebrity endorsements and very little advertising at all. The company has become so successful by creating real results through their products, and that gets noticed all on its own!
*Oh, I would also like to add for good measure that I have never been paid by Environ to promote their products.
I'm simply just a huge skincare snob (I'm not ashamed!!) and promote what I believe in.
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Thursday, 13 July 2017
The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging
Balance:
This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.
I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.
As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.
A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.
My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.
Nourish:
A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!
Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.
Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.
This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.
Protect:
Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.
It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.
So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.
Stimulate:
As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.
It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.
Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.
Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.
The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!
Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.
By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!
A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!
In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.
That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.
This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.
I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.
As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.
A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.
My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.
Nourish:
A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!
Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.
Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.
This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.
Protect:
Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.
It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.
So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.
Stimulate:
As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.
It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.
Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.
Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.
The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!
Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.
By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!
A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!
In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.
That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.
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Saturday, 24 June 2017
The Link Between Dairy and Acne
I get a lot of questions about how the diet impacts the skin. It actually varies quite a lot from person to person depending on how sensitive the skin, and certain skin conditions are to possible food triggers.
While some people can't seem to sneak any sort of junk food like chocolate or other sweets without suffering the consequences, others show no reaction at all.
One link between diary and acne however is a little more clear. It's been proven that often those who struggle with acne also have some level of insulin resistance.
Insulin resistance is a condition where the body doesn't respond to normal levels of the hormone being release in the blood stream post sugar spike. The pancreas continues to release more and more until, finally sugar levels are normalised.
The problem is now there's all this additional insulin hanging out that needs to be dealt with.
So the hormone is then processed very similarly to a male hormone, which has a direct stimulating effect on the sebaceous, or oil glands in the skin. More oil usually means more breakouts.
But what does insulin have to do with dairy? Typically when we think of a sugar spike we think of chocolate, candy or alcohol, right?
Well lactose is the natural sugar found in dairy products and contributes to sugar spikes. Along with added processed sugar like in ice cream, yogurt or chocolate it's suddenly an extra hit on the system.
Dairy also contains natural hormones, since cows milk is made to make small calves grow, and fast I might add. Dairy contains growth hormones no matter where it comes from.
Yes, in Canada we have dairy products that do not contain ADDED hormones and that's great...but don't let that make you think the diary we consume is hormone free.
These hormones get processed in the human body similarly to how we process our own natural growth hormones when we're growing ourselves. In children who already have a ton of their own natural growth hormones surging through them, now you've added in some extra, and for what? Good measure? In adults who are fully grown, well...you see where I'm going with this.
These hormones are also processed in the system similar to a male hormone, again, having a direct stimulating effect on the oil glands. As if they weren't working hard enough already, am I right?
The result is excessively oily, clogged and inflamed skin.
Medical tests are available to see if you may be someone struggling with insulin resistance however, an easy way to see if you're sensitive to the effects of dairy in general would be cutting it out for at least 2 weeks, if not 3.
Reintroduce one serving of dairy like a glass of milk or cup of yogurt and wait another 72 hours.
If you end up having a flare up in your acne, or notice your skin is more oily during those days it may be best to cut out dairy all together, or at least minimize your overall intake.
Of course, I have to say that I am a Laser Technician and Skin Health Therapist. So, if you're going to make any radical changes to your diet please talk to your doctor or nutritionist before doing so.
While some people can't seem to sneak any sort of junk food like chocolate or other sweets without suffering the consequences, others show no reaction at all.
One link between diary and acne however is a little more clear. It's been proven that often those who struggle with acne also have some level of insulin resistance.
Insulin resistance is a condition where the body doesn't respond to normal levels of the hormone being release in the blood stream post sugar spike. The pancreas continues to release more and more until, finally sugar levels are normalised.
The problem is now there's all this additional insulin hanging out that needs to be dealt with.
So the hormone is then processed very similarly to a male hormone, which has a direct stimulating effect on the sebaceous, or oil glands in the skin. More oil usually means more breakouts.
But what does insulin have to do with dairy? Typically when we think of a sugar spike we think of chocolate, candy or alcohol, right?
Well lactose is the natural sugar found in dairy products and contributes to sugar spikes. Along with added processed sugar like in ice cream, yogurt or chocolate it's suddenly an extra hit on the system.
Dairy also contains natural hormones, since cows milk is made to make small calves grow, and fast I might add. Dairy contains growth hormones no matter where it comes from.
Yes, in Canada we have dairy products that do not contain ADDED hormones and that's great...but don't let that make you think the diary we consume is hormone free.
These hormones get processed in the human body similarly to how we process our own natural growth hormones when we're growing ourselves. In children who already have a ton of their own natural growth hormones surging through them, now you've added in some extra, and for what? Good measure? In adults who are fully grown, well...you see where I'm going with this.
These hormones are also processed in the system similar to a male hormone, again, having a direct stimulating effect on the oil glands. As if they weren't working hard enough already, am I right?
The result is excessively oily, clogged and inflamed skin.
Medical tests are available to see if you may be someone struggling with insulin resistance however, an easy way to see if you're sensitive to the effects of dairy in general would be cutting it out for at least 2 weeks, if not 3.
Reintroduce one serving of dairy like a glass of milk or cup of yogurt and wait another 72 hours.
If you end up having a flare up in your acne, or notice your skin is more oily during those days it may be best to cut out dairy all together, or at least minimize your overall intake.
Of course, I have to say that I am a Laser Technician and Skin Health Therapist. So, if you're going to make any radical changes to your diet please talk to your doctor or nutritionist before doing so.
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Thursday, 22 June 2017
Why Tanning Beds Are Actually Robbing You Of Your Vitamin D
Many indoor tanning companies advertise their beds to be beneficial for providing vitamin D. This is a marketing angle that these companies have come up with in an attempt to offset the bad reputation that indoor tanning has gathered in the more recent years in regards to skin cancer and other health and cosmetic problems.
Surprisingly, this tactic has worked quite well in attracting people who are interested in this new, and so called “healthy” way to get their vitamin D. While we obviously need healthy levels of vitamin D, this is definitely not the ideal way to get it and we will tell you why!
As most of us know there are 3 main rays that are dispersed from the sun. UVA, UVB and UVC rays.
UVA rays are the rays that cause tanning, skin cancer and are responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin fibers deep in the skin which is why they’re also responsible for causing the majority of premature aging.
UVB rays are the rays that damage the skin more superficially (on the surface), cause burns and enable the skin to make vitamin D.
Thankfully UVC rays are filtered out by the earth’s atmosphere, so we don’t have to worry too much about those ones!
A tanning bed will contain up to about 90% UVA rays, since these are the rays that cause tanning, and only 10% UVB rays. Clearly the concentration of UVB is very low, however this isn’t the main problem when talking about why a tanning bed would actually diminish our levels of vitamin D.
The real problem is a sneaky one and probably something you’ve never heard about before.
UVA rays denature and destroy vitamin D. Yup, that’s right! You see normally, in cases of long term sun exposure outside the balance of UVB allowing us to create the vitamin, along with UVA denaturing it would keep us from essentially over dosing on vitamin D. But, since tanning beds are about 12x the concentration and are mostly UVA rays, this throws any natural balance way off whack. This means that any vitamin D we’re creating from the low levels of UVB rays in a tanning bed, is being destroyed just as fast by the UVA rays.
In addition, any vitamin D we walked in with is also being destroyed straight from the skin as well as the blood stream since UVA rays penetrate deep down into the dermis which is home to many nutrient rich blood vessels. It’s because of this that we’re actually leaving the tanning salon with less vitamin D than when we entered it!
So, now that we’ve thoroughly discredited tanning beds in offering us any health benefits…what is the best way to get vitamin D?
Some health care professionals will actually recommend getting natural sunlight outside and collecting your vitamin D that way. That however, leads us to a problem…actually several problems, but let’s take it one at a time shall we?
How much sun does one need to get their daily dose of vitamin D? This can vary greatly from person to person and is solely dictated by skin color. Someone who has fair skin and light hair needs a lot less sun exposure than someone who has brown or black skin with dark hair to get their vitamin D.
This process can also be effected by factors like certain prescriptions. For example, something like cholesterol lowering medications can inhibit your skin from making vitamin D since the vitamin is ultimately created from a precursor of cholesterol!
The less cholesterol available, the less vitamin D can be created.
Another factor is the time you would have to spend in the sun on a day to day basis is going to vary greatly with weather/seasonal changes. One day it could be 10 minutes on a beautiful sunny day, the next it could be 25+ minutes on a cloudy one. The amount of exposure needed also varies widely depending on where you live and how close you are to the equator.
So, that being said, as a general rule when exposing yourself to the sun without any protection such as long sleeves, an umbrella or sunscreen for example. The time it takes for your skin to turn light pink is the recommended time someone should stay in the sun in order to create enough vitamin D.
However, another general rule for sun exposure is when the skin starts to turn red, there has already been free radical damage to the area.
This may not sound so bad to most people but keep in mind, it’s actually free radical damage that leads to development of something like skin cancer. There’s a fine line between some pink tones developing and redness developing in the skin. Most people won’t be paying enough attention to even notice that there’s any difference at all and would therefor end up causing unwanted damage.
People also often assume the skin is not only creating, but is absorbing the vitamin D instantly, or at least in a relatively short amount of time, right? Guess again!
New research shows that the process of the vitamin D reaching and being absorbed into the blood stream can take up to 48 hours! Until then, it’s vulnerable near the surface of the skin and can even be washed off with soap in the shower!
So it’s for ALL of these reasons that getting your vitamin D outside is simply not a safe, reliable or a realistic option!!
Our opinion and that of many skin health professionals is that the safest and most effective way to get your vitamin D is through supplementation. A high quality, high absorbency type of nutritional supplement not only keeps you safely out of the sun, but allows you to dispense exactly how much vitamin D you need for your specific needs. Depending on body weight and many other factors, this can range anywhere between 1,000 to 5,000+ UI’s.
Checking in with your doctor is always a good idea to make sure you’re getting the amount you need. Hopefully with this new information, you’ll be able to make the best choice for yourself!!
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Top 3 Acne Mistakes
Many different age groups and skin types suffer from mild, moderate or severe acne and almost all of us have been there at one time or another.
Most common in teens, acne often shows up along with the introduction of sex hormones that stimulate oil production in the skin.
It can also show up in menopausal women as adult acne for the same reason, a shift and change in hormones. The truth is acne at any age is frustrating, embarrassing and can seem like an uphill battle.
Most people can relate to the fact that it seems the more you try and treat acne with harsh topical medications or scrubs, the worse it becomes.
The idea that having acne means that ones skin is somehow “dirty” or “greasy” often causes us to go straight for the strongest products we can find to kill bacteria and strip our skin almost cleansing it half to death.
There has to be a better way, right? Listed below are the top three most common mistakes people make when trying to treat their acne.
#1: Over Cleansing.
Somehow we’ve been programed to think that having acne means we have dirty skin. Most likely an idea that was placed in our minds purposely to encourage the purchasing of products that claim to clean our skin of dirt, grime and gunk. The truth is acne prone skin is not dirty, it is inflamed and congested and therefor needs some major TLC.
When talking facial cleansers you typically have three options...
-Gel cleanser.
-Foam cleanser.
-Cream cleanser.
Typically acne type cleansers are gel that lathers and foams up a ton when used. These cleansers are the strongest of all since they remove and strip the skin of all oil. That’s where you get that squeaky clean feeling from. These cleansers typically leave you feeling tight, dry and itching to slather on some moisturizer ASAP before your face begins to crack.
However, your skin needs oil. Sebaceous glands in the skin produce oil as a natural lubricant, cleaner, and barrier for the skin. Without it the skin is actually more vulnerable to environmental damage and bacteria.
Your skin quickly senses the lack of protection after all the oil has been removed and the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was taken away. This is why most people start to feel extremely oily mid-day and can hardly wait to go home and cleanse all over again...it’s a vicious cycle! Too much oil being produced will actually stimulate more clogs and breakouts, all while drying out the skin and making it vulnerable to damage. Not a good option.
The best option is actually a cream type cleanser that does not foam. This will still clean the skin, but will not strip it of all the healthy oils the skin needs! In turn the oil glands will calm down and produce a more normal amount of oil which will reduce breakouts and ensure the skin is feeling much more balanced throughout the day.
#2: Exfoliating.
Continuing to follow the idea that our skin is somehow dirty, a very popular product used by most who suffer with acne is facial scrubs. Simply put, these types of products should either be thrown out or used up on your feet, knees or elbows because they do not belong on your face!
Especially for those who struggle with acne, scrubs are just so not the way to go. They create microscopic lesions in the top layer of skin which stimulates a healing response, increasing inflammation. The beads pick up and spread bacteria to other open pores and follicles in the skin, spreading and worsening breakouts.
In the long term facial scrubs thin the skin and make it more vulnerable to damage. This being said, one of the main problems with acne prone skin is the extra thick layer of dead skin cells on top, this is fact. So how do we get rid of this build up without scrubbing? Acids.
Sounds a little scary and aggressive right? Well acids like Lactic or Glycolic for example come from natural sources such as milk and sugar cane and are actually more beneficial for the skin than scrubs will ever be.
Lactic acid is a great option for those with acne who also struggle with dryness as this acid increases hydration in the skin, drawing moisture.
Glycolic acid is a great option for those with acne who struggle with excessive oil production, or those with adult acne as this acid is widely used for anti-aging purposes.
The acids dissolve dead surface cells, kill bacteria and actually stimulate the skin to renew at a faster rate. So the more often you use acids the more often you’ll have new skin!!
For those who may be wondering I did not list Salicylic acid here as I believe it removes too much oil from the skin and can continue to stimulate further oil production.
#3 Depriving the skin.
Our skin is the largest organ of the body, yet it is last to receive any nutrients from the foods we take in. It also takes one heck of a beating with environmental damage such as UV light, pollution, cold and heat extremes and so on.
Our skin needs topical nutrition and protection to be able to function properly. Vitamin A, C and E for example assist in healthy cell function, DNA repair and antioxidant protection.
However most people struggling with acne are overly focused on using cleansing type products that contain medications like peroxide, antibiotics, scrubs and harsh cleansers that they forget to nourish their skin all together.
Skin that is suffering from acne is inflammed, damaged and stressed so feeding it high quality nutrients to repair and calm makes sense doesn’t it?
High quality, medical grade skin care is a must when treating acne. A regular home care routine with the proper products will do most of the work!
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What is Glycation?
Glycation is the process of a glucose (sugar) molecule binding with a protein (collagen and elastin) molecule in the body, causing the protein to become stiff and eventually break.
These damaged structures are known as advanced glycation end products, or appropriately abbreviated as “AGE’s”.
Collagen and elastin are the fibers that keep the skin plump, taught and youthful. These fibers, once damaged are not easily replaced by the body.
Scientists have proven that a rise in blood sugar levels causes inflammation on a cellular level throughout the entire body. This means when we eat processed or even natural sugary foods, that this will cause glycation in the skin, and this process helps to speed up aging and its negative effects.
Inflammation from this also causes free radicals to form which attack healthy compounds in the body. As if glycation alone wasn’t bad enough…
So what can you do about it? Cutting down on sugar intake will prevent glycation damage. To combat free radicals you need antioxidants. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, causing them to become inactive.
Antioxidants should be taken in orally and can be found in foods like berries, pomegranate, oranges , black plum, gala apples, sweet cherries, prunes, raisins, tomatoes, ginger, green vegetables like spinach, kale, broccoli and artichokes, nuts like pecans, walnuts, almonds, steel cut oats , quinoa, black beans, kidney beans and even chocolate (should be unprocessed dark and high in cacao content.)
Antioxidants can, and should also be applied topically to the skin with high quality professional skin care products.
Products containing vitamin A, C, E and certain extracts and enzymes that can be properly absorbed by the skin are best. This will help combat free radicals and even help to reverse their negative effects on the skin, inside and out.
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Menopause and The Skin
Most people associate this condition with hot flashes, loss of menstruation and mood swings, but all of these symptoms are caused by hormone changes and hormones have a direct impact on the skin. The adrenal glands and ovaries of post-menopausal women secrete increased androgens (male hormones) and in the absence of estrogens (female hormones), this has a major impact on changing the physiology of the skin in new and different ways.
Dryness: During the reproductive years female hormones stimulate a more fluid, smooth sebaceous gland (oil gland) secretion; this oil along with other substances being secreted and excreted by the skin protects, moistens, cleans and maintains the pH balance of the skin. During menopause as female hormone levels decrease so do oil levels and this causes the skin to become dry, dull, delicate and more susceptible to damage and premature aging.
Elasticity: Protein synthesis, like that of collagen and elastin are partially controlled by estrogens. During menopause, the lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed or has a history of long term exposure to ultra violet rays. UV rays actually break down these important proteins, and if we lose our repair mechanism then we lose our skin's resiliency. This results in elastosis.
Volume: Estrogens stimulate fat deposits in the female body; as estrogen levels drop during menopause, fat deposits tend to become redistributed and often concentrated over the abdomen and/or on the thighs and buttocks. The result is a loss of supportive fat tissue below the skin in areas like the face, neck, hands and arms; this causes sagging and wrinkling due to loss of volume.
Renewal: The growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of estrogens as well. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum (the bottom layer) of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate or cell renewal factor (“CRF” for short.) CRF is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the lowest layer of the Epidermis to the top layer, where it is eventually shed off. This process slows down dramatically with age and factors like diet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure all have a huge influence.
CRF by age
Babies: 14 days
Teenagers: 21 – 28 days
Adults: 28 – 42 days
50 and up: 42 – 84 days
Pigment: The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. Melanin protects us from the sun by being released from the melanocytes after long periods of sun exposure, ultimately darkening the skin. The darker the skin, the longer it takes to absorb heat, light and energy. This is our body’s defense mechanism to try and slow the absorption of damaging UV rays. As menopause progresses, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced (they degenerate). With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Therefore, menopausal skin is more prone to sun damage, making it even more important to protect the skin with a proper sunblock.
So what can you do to help prevent and correct these problems? The most important thing anyone can do for their skin is have proper home care. You can go to all the fancy salons all you want but at the end of the day if you’re using harsh, incorrect and low quality products at home every day, you’ll be fighting (and most likely losing) an up-hill battle. Any skin, but especially mature, delicate and/or post-menopausal skin needs high quality, high concentrated and active ingredients.
-Vitamin A to correct sun damage and protect against future damage.
-Vitamin B3 for uneven skin tone, and increasing hydration.
-Vitamin B12 for healthy cell function.
-Vitamin C to address dullness, pigmentation and fight free radicals.
-Vitamin E for all of the above vitamin synergy and free radical protection.
The skin is the largest organ of the body but the last to receive any nutrients from the foods we eat. These vitamins are just the basics of what our skin needs every day.
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Moisturizers VS Hydrators
Moisturizers are products that contain things like oils, silicones, glycerin, or petroleum that coat the surface of the skin, giving a feeling of relief from dryness.
The problem is the sense of relief is temporary and often these products can initially feel good after application, but as the day goes on there can be a buildup of oil on the surface and the tight uncomfortable feeling can return underneath.
Once the product has been removed after cleansing, the skin returns to feel parched and tight.
To really correct moisture levels in the skin requires a product that can penetrate and draw moisture inside. This is what separates moisturizers from hydrators. Hydrators contain things like Hyaluronic Acid, which is famous for its water holding capabilities. A single molecule of HA can hold 1,000x its weight in water!
When formulated correctly with the appropriate molecular weight, the HA should be able to penetrate the skin deeply, attract water and hold it there. Correcting dryness, and not just masking it. This means the skin will feel better hydrated even when the product is not being used.
Those who struggle with dryness may be those who live in a dry climate (hello Calgary!) and even those on Accutane which sucks the skin dry of any natural oils and moisture, resulting in severe dryness and even cracked, sore skin.
For a proper hydrator that’s up for the job, we recommend Teoxane products. Teoxane was first developed in Switzerland and is formulated with a low molecular weight, high quality HA capable of sufficient penetration and correction.
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Laser Vein Therapy Q&A
How:
Laser Vein Therapy works by administering enough heat energy to coagulate the blood on the inside of damaged veins and capillaries without damaging surrounding tissues. The result is the vessel collapses and flattens, minimizing the appearance or destroying the vessel all together. This is all done non-invasivly, no needles and no downtime.
Normal, healthy vessels have valves inside of them that open and close to allow for proper blood flow in one direction. Vessels that appear on the surface are damaged from faulty valves which allow blood to flow backwards, stretching, bulging and twisting them.
These vessels are not needed by the body for adequate blood flow. Once the laser has successfully destroyed them, blood flow is simply rerouted to healthy surrounding vessels.
On average, three treatments are recommended for ideal and long lasting results. Results are usually seen after the first treatment.
What:
Laser Vein Therapy works on spider veins which are the small, red to purple colored veins that are often found in the face or legs. It is also effective on larger veins such as reticular veins around the eyes, temples and legs. These veins are blue to green in color and can appear twisted and slightly swollen.
Laser Vein Therapy is not appropriate to treat varicose veins which are large, deep leg veins that cause pain and throbbing.
Why:
Genetics play a big role in why vessels become damaged in the first place but certain life style factors can contribute to the problem such as sun exposure, alcohol, high blood pressure, temperature extremes, harsh skin care products, habitual crossing of the legs and long periods of time spent standing or sitting.
Melasma
Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.
It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.
However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.
If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.
Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.
At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.
Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.
There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.
A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.
These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.
As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.
Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.
Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.
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The Miracle of Collagen Creams! ...Not.
We’ve all seen them…beautifully packaged and yummy smelling body or face lotions (that can also come with a serious price tag!) that promise firmer, younger looking skin. The secret ingredient? Collagen of course!
Collagen is the sexy protein fiber in the skin that gives it structure, firmness and therefor youthfulness! The younger you are, the more of it you’ll have! Due to natural aging, sun exposure, diet and other factors we lose collagen as we age (about 1-2% each year), so doesn’t it make sense to start applying it on our skin every day to stay looking young forever?
Well…no.
I have to give it to the skincare companies marketing angles, I mean it works right? We see the word collagen and immediately think “Anti-aging in a bottle! I must have it!”
The sad reality is this is just a great way to sell products. Similar to other gimmicky ingredients like activated charcoal, 24 karat gold, Australian clay, Co-Enzyme Q10, Himalayan salt, algae, fish caviar extract, plant stem cells, coconut oil, snail mucus…please, someone stop me. I can’t even.
There are simply too many of these ingredients to name but they all serve the very same purpose, to sell sell sell! And unfortunately your skin doesn’t actually benefit much. The size of a collagen molecule is huge when you’re talking about a substances ability to penetrate into the skin, which is meant to keep things out! It would be like trying to get a whole cucumber to fit through a spaghetti strainer, it just ain’t happening.
Why don’t we just say, for fun, that collagen could penetrate into the skin. Skin care products don’t contain human collagen; they typically contain bovine (cow) or fish collagen. Okay, so now we have a different species collagen in our skin. What is it going to do? Is it going to magically intertwine with our own collagen to give us more?? Nope! Even if it was human collagen it still doesn’t work that way.
Collagen is produced in the skin by cells called fibroblasts. Fibroblasts need nourishment such vitamin A, C and peptides to make lots of healthy collagen and elastin. Peptides are chains of amino acids and are specifically formulated into skin care to stimulate collagen production. Laser and light treatments will also stimulate healthy collagen production as this is your skins way of healing, by producing collagen.
Therefore, if you’re going to invest your hard earned money into the health of your skin you should invest in the right products to do so. Don’t go for the hottest trending product. Choose professionals who can sell you medical grade, top of the line skin care proven by science and facts.
Oh, and that collagen laced cream you just splurged on? Best possible outcome is it’s going to bring a little more moisture to the surface of your skin, since collagen does hold some water. That’s about it though.
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