What The Answer To These Simple Questions Can Reveal About Your Skin!!

People are often surprised at what kind of, and how many questions I ask them during their initial consultation with me.
I go over everything with a fine tooth comb so I can gather enough information to figure out what their skin type really is (and not just what they think it is), what their skin needs and isn't getting, what their skin doesn't need but may be getting anyways, how sensitive their skin may be and if it's a true sensitive skin type or if it's sensitivity that's being caused by vitamin deficiency.

There's so much to learn from asking very simple questions. Unfortunately a lot of my clients who have seen other skin care professionals/laser technicians in the past often tell me they've never been asked these questions before.

Of course, everyone in the industry has their own ways of doing what they do. For me this method has proven to be very successful in helping me identify what specific products someone needs and why. 
It's extremely rare that anyone who has started on a new skin care regimen with me has not been over the moon about how it changes the way their skin feels (usually within the first use) and how it looks and functions in the long term too.


So let me share just a couple of my secrets with all of you....

After learning what they're currently using, how often and in what order etc...

My first question usually refers to the cleanser.
"After you finish cleansing and pat your skin dry, before continuing to the next step...how does your skin feel?"

Nine times out of ten people say "tight and dry."This is important even if it's a mild feeling.
This means the cleanser is disrupting the natural moisture barrier of the skin called the "acid mantle."
The acid mantle is a oil/water film that is produced by the skin and acts as protection from dehydration, bacteria and damage from other environmental elements.

When disrupted or removed completely (you know that squeaky clean feeling?!) it actually stimulates the oil glands in the skin to produce more oil to replace what was lost.
Hence my next question...

"How does your skin feel around lunch time on your average day?"
Again usually the answer is "greasy" or "a little oily".

The oil glands are working over time! This is especially a big problem if someone is prone to breakouts or has acne.

"How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"
The response to this question is usually something like "I can't wait to get home, take my make up off and wash my face!"

Someone who experiences this would likely be an oily skin type.

These people tend to save the extra strong, foamy cleanser for the evening because they feel so much build up on their skin. Of course, that means the skin is being stripped once again...
It's a vicious cycle that can be fixed with simply changing the cleanser to something that does not foam and leaves the acid mantle intact.

That's why I love the Mild Cleansing Lotion and the Hydra-Intense Cleansing Lotion from Environ.
Neither of these cleansers foam therefor they leave the acid mantle intact and the skin comfortable. This actually calms down the oil glands and people usually notice their skin feels more balanced within the first use.

Next question if the person is using a toner is...
"Does the toner feel cooling on your skin?"

If yes, this is a sign that toner is actually more like an astringent and is full of alcohol that is going to suck the skin dry of any moisture. Not good!

A true toner balances the pH of the skin and should have something more to give rather than taking something away from the skin.
This is exactly why my first love from Environ was their Moisturizing Toner. After two weeks of daily use I was noticing my complexion evening out and my skin becoming brighter. I was hooked!

It of course balances the pH of the skin but it also has lactic acid to gently exfoliate and draw moisture (which is why it's appropriate for dry and sensitive skin types too) as well as botanicals and vitamins to calm and feed the skin.


Now, going back to that same question "How about at the end of your day when you're on your way home?"

Sometimes people are unsure how to respond because their skin feels oily on the surface or just in specific areas like the t-zone, but it also feels tight and dry underneath or in specific areas like the cheeks/chin. Their skin may even start to flake at this point. So they're unsure if they're an oily skin type or dry skin type!

Usually they go home, over cleanse to remove the excess oil and apply the thickest heaviest moisturizer they can find in an attempt to hydrate their skin. Again, another vicious circle.

Someone that experiences this would be a dry skin type, or at least prone to dryness. Since their cleanser is stripping the acid mantle from their skin it is now open to dehydration.

In Calgary we have a dry atmosphere (just in case you didn't already know that!) and what happens now is called Transepidermal Water Loss, or "TEWL" for short.
This is the process where water molecules from the skin are evaporated into the surrounding atmosphere, causing dehydration.

Again, a problem that can easily be fixed with changing over to the correct products that would keep the acid mantle intact, draw moisture and penetrate the skin to properly hydrate.
That thick heavy night cream is only going to sit on the surface and give the feeling of relief while the product is on. Once it's washed off your skin is back to square one.

A serum is actually better at correcting dryness since it has a much thinner viscosity and when formulated properly, can actually go inside the skin to help fix the problem instead of just masking it.

That's just one of the many, many reasons I love the C-Quence Serum from Environ. It absorbs so quickly and feels so light, yet it's so powerful...and becomes even more powerful as you move onto the higher levels! It's a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to feed, nourish and correct the skin.

If someone has a true dry skin type and finds the serum isn't enough in terms of moisture, that's where the C-Quence Crème would come in! The Crème can be applied on top of the serum to not only provide additional moisture but also boost the levels of antioxidants and peptides for a potent anti-aging effect.


So as you can see, just a couple simple questions can actually reveal a lot about someone's skin!




To book a complimentary consultation with me to talk about Environ or anything else...

Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email: lauraslasers@gmail.com
Instagram: @lauras_lasers

Before I was a Laser Tech, I was a client and here's what happend to me.

I wanted to share a more personal story with everyone to explain why I do things the way I do as a laser tech and skin health therapist. I'm specifically talking about how I encourage everyone to be diligent and do their research before even stepping foot into an aesthetic clinic and definitely before hopping into a treatment chair and trusting a total stranger with your face.

When I was 17-20 years old I had persistent acne on my forehead. It was painful, embarrassing and left me with scars. I hated my skin.
I spent so much time and effort covering my scars every day with layer upon layer of heavy makeup before I'd even leave the house to run a simple errand.

Eventually I thought there must be something I could do to make them go away. I tried to do research on what the best treatment might be for me, but I was overwhelmed by so many options and found it extremely confusing since every site I looked at on line had a completely different opinion about what really works.

I ended up stumbling upon a new "laser clinic" that was close to where I was living at the time so I thought I'd give it a try based on nothing except the location. I called in to book my appointment and without even asking what I wanted the treatment for the man on the phone said "our laser will make you look ten years younger after one treatment!"

Ooook....I was 20 years old at the time and had no desire to look any younger, I just wanted my scars gone. I disregarded that comment and booked an appointment anyways.

When I walked into the "clinic" I realized it was actually a hair salon so at first I thought I must've been in the wrong place. After going to the front desk to ask it turned out I was in the right place after all.

It wasn't a laser clinic, it was just a room in the back of the salon that someone was renting to do services in. I didn't really think anything of it.
Eventually a woman came and took me to the small room in the back. She didn't explain the treatment to me, how it works, what it feels like, what to do afterwards...nothing.

She told me to lay down on the treatment table, so I did and she immediately put metal goggles over my eyes. So not only do I have no idea of what's about to happen, but now I can't even see. Great!

A few moments passed and I heard the woman call out to someone but wasn't sure who as she was speaking another language now. I heard the door open and a man came into the room.
They started going back and forth in discussion while I lie there and wasn't able to understand a single word.

I slid my goggles off to see the woman had the manual to the machine out on the table and was flipping through the pages while talking to her husband.

This probably should've been the point where I clued in that these people really didn't know what they were doing, and I should've gotten up and walked out.
But I didn't! Because I was 20 years old and sick of being embarrassed of my skin and was willing to risk being treated by this clueless woman if it meant my scars would get better.

I mean, what's the worst that could happen right??....oh, if  my 20 year old self had only known!
I would've RAN straight out of that room.

With a nervous knot in my stomach I laid back down and let her start the treatment. I wasn't prepared for the pain or bright flashing lights I could see regardless of wearing metal goggles, so that really startled me at first. I had to wonder if that was normal, or if I was risking damage to my eyes.

I asked the lady to stop and I told her I could see the bright light. She said it wasn't a problem and kept going...not exactly the warmest personality I've ever come across.

I couldn't wait for her to finish. When she finally did she took my goggles off, and told me to reschedule in a couple weeks for another treatment.
She didn't give me any post care instructions, or even tell me to wear sunscreen. It was the middle of summer, I was outdoors a lot and never wore sunscreen.

I ended up doing two more treatments which were over $200 a pop. That was a lot of money for me at the time since I was working in retail, but again I didn't care. I just wanted my scars gone.

In the end the treatments didn't change a single thing about my skin except for the fact that I had accumulating more sun damage. I wasn't informed that the treatments would make my skin more photo-sensitive than normal and I went all summer long without a drop of sunscreen.

I think back on that experience now and I'm so grateful it wasn't any worse.
I know now that lady was treating me with an IPL (Intense Pulse Light) which isn't a laser.
I now know that IPL has the highest risk of burns and other complications than any other light based device.
I now know that to claim one treatment will make someone look ten years younger is beyond outrageous and misleading.

I also know now that there is no education required before someone can get behind a laser, IPL or nearly any other aesthetic device/machine out there and treat someone. Terrifying!!

I can only assume that I paid all that money to be under treated since this is a common occurrence when technicians are unsure of the proper settings to use on someone.

It's because of that experience I strive to make sure everyone in my treatment chair feels informed, comfortable and confident in anything they choose to do for their skin. Even if it's just trying new skin care products.

I make sure everyone knows exactly what to expect before, during and after their treatments. I always make sure they can get in touch with me should they have any questions or concerns.
I don't mind a little "hand holding" if it means my clients are comfortable and happy with the service I provide for them. I will never sugar coat anything or give someone unrealistic expectations.

A consultation with me might take a little longer than it does with someone else, but I like to think that means my clients leave far more educated and able to make the best decision for themselves instead of blindly trusting what I'm telling them to do.



To book a consultation with me Text/Call 403 991 1663
Email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com
Message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers

What Makes Lasers Different From One Another?

I'm a big believer in doing your research before jumping into a treatment chair, not only on the person who's treating you but the equipment being used as well.

Problem is with so many different kinds of lasers and different brands that make them, it can be really overwhelming.

Without getting too far into it I'm going to break down what makes one laser different from another and why there's no such thing as "the best one."

A laser is a concentrated beam of energy (photons) that contains a single wavelength.
Think of a hand held laser pen. This makes it different than light which contains multiple wavelengths and is diffused and scattered energy (photons). Think of a light bulb.

To start, only the non-ionizing spectrum of energy is used in medical aesthetic devices.
This means the energy does not cause cellular mutations like x-ray or UV rays can, for example.
All the wavelengths used are safe and do not cause cancer, which is a concern many people have.

See image of light spectrum below:

















So for this article I'll be focusing on the non-ionizing wavelengths.

A wavelength is a measurement of the distance between two peaks in a wave of light energy and this distance is measure in nanometers (nm).

This is what makes lasers different from one another...but hang on it's not quite that simple.

Different wavelengths not only penetrate into tissue at different depths (see image below), but what they absorb into best varies from one another too. In medical aesthetics you have three main targets (chromophores) that you'd want a laser to absorb into.

Those three things are water, hemoglobin (in blood) and melanin (or other pigment such as tattoo ink). Some wavelengths "like" certain targets more than others.


Depth of penetration by wavelength:

For example a 755nm wavelength likes pigment and due to the depth of penetration the energy has into tissue it's used to treat sun spots, tattoos and hair removal since all these things have melanin or man made pigment.

Make sense?

Another example would be a 1064nm wavelength which penetrates so far into tissue it can reach the fat or subcutaneous layer. This wavelength absorbs into water and hemoglobin nicely and is what I use to treat leg and facial veins.

So choosing which wavelength is best depends on the target or chromophore you're treating, and where it is in the tissue. That's why there's no single best wavelength. They all behave very differently.

Then there's ablative or non-ablative wavelengths. Ablative meaning to remove tissue.
To do skin resurfacing for anti-aging or for acne scars you'd need to use an ablative wavelength like a CO2 laser or an Erbium YAG laser. Again, even though they can both be ablative they're actually still very different.

So now you may be wondering how to produce different wavelengths in the first place.
It's pretty cool actually!

Inside each laser there is an "Active Laser Medium" and this is what's used to amplify the power of the photons, which is what all light is made up of.
Depending on the medium, the photons come out as different wavelengths.

Different types of active laser mediums fall into three different categories...solid, liquid and gas.

An example of a solid state laser would be the 1064nm Nd YAG where neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet is used to produce this specific wavelength.
Neodymium is a metal and Yttrium Aluminium Garnet is a crystal.

An example of a liquid state laser would be a 600nm Pulse Dye Laser where an organic dye is used as the active laser medium.

And an example of a gas state laser would be a 10,600nm CO2 laser.
CO2 gas inside the laser is used as the active laser medium.

Told you it was pretty cool!

This is why it's incredibly difficult for people to do their own homework on what laser is best for their specific concern.
What I've explained here is just the tip of the iceberg and if you don't understand laser and light physics and the interaction is has with tissue, it's pretty much impossible to figure it out on your own.

This is also why I stress the need for people to do their research on the person behind the lasers, the technician. The technician has to have a solid understanding of this and so much more to decipher what will be best for each individual and give safe, effective treatments.



To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email me at lauraslasers@gmail.com

The Plateau Effect Explained

Ever wondered why some skin care seems great at first, but then just stops working for you after a while?

I come across this a lot during consultations with clients where I ask what line they're currently on. A lot of people will say "Well I'm using this (insert name here) brand and I actually really liked it at first, but now my skin has gone back to the way it was before. It's frustrating, nothing seems to work for me in the long term."

Some people get so fed up they stop using skin care all together and go back to plain old water and moisturizer while all the ghosts of their skin care past take up the space under their bathroom sink.
You're even picturing the exact cupboard all your old skin care is sitting in and collecting dust right now, aren't you?

It's alright...we've all done it, and we all have that cupboard!

No, you're not just imagining the lack of results. The skin plateaus since the skin care being used isn't made to progress the skin any further.

It's sort of like if you started a workout routine at the gym...10 minutes of cardio and 30 minutes of light weights...but did only that for the next 5 years.
Sure, you might notice an improvement in your fitness or muscle tone at first but without progressing to a more intense program to fit your new and improved level of fitness, you're never going to see anything more.

It's the same idea with your skin.
Most of us know there are 2 main layers to the skin. The dermis and epidermis. What you may not know is there are even more layers within these.
The epidermis is actually made up of 5 different layers and contrary to popular belief, it is very much alive. The only layer of the epidermis that is dead is the very top layer called the Stratum Corneum.

The dermis is made up of 2 different layers and is just above the layer of fat tissue, or subcutaneous tissue.

So without getting too far into the anatomy of the skin, my point is the skin is alive and is our barrier to the outside world. Beyond that it has many more jobs like heat regulation, sensation, secretion, excretion and absorption.

To do all those things properly it needs to be nourished, like any other part of our body does.
The skin needs vitamins, antioxidants and peptides (just to name a few) to function at its best.

But if you only ever feed your skin the same concentration/dosage of these things, it will never continue to improve. You will always plateau.
This is why so many people bounce around from one line to another. They're desperately trying to find something new to keep the results going, but unfortunately this chase usually ends in frustration and in money not-so-well spent.

Enter Environ!!!!

This is one of the reasons Environ has their unique step-up system.
They make different concentrations of their corrective serums and moisturizers to keep the improvements going and going.

Using the Youth-EssentiA C-Quence Serums (my all time favourite) as an example...you start on level 1 and it goes all the way up to 5.
Each serum lasts about three months so the skin has time to adjust to the dosage, improve, become stronger and repeat with each step up! This way you're constantly seeing positive changes.

...and I know what you're thinking, "What about when you get to level 5? Won't you just plateau at that point?"

NOOOO! That's the wonderful, amazing, ingeniousness that is Environ!!

Once you move up to the higher levels in the serums, you can start to add in Retinol (which also comes in two different levels) to further improve.

Now this is where it gets sort of tricky.

Since one of the very important jobs of the skin is to be our protection and barrier...when you make it stronger through vitamin therapy like this, it naturally becomes increasingly difficult for the vitamins and other nourishment in topical products to penetrate into the skin where it needs to be.

This is where cosmetic needling comes in!
I know, sounds sort of scary right? I promise it's really not!!

Environ makes a cosmetic needling device that you use at home for this very reason. Now that the skin has become so resilient and strong, we need to find a way to continue getting all the nourishment in the right place.

Imagine a miniature paint roller, except on the rolling head you have 0.1mm tiny needles.
They're only big enough to open microscopic pathways in the superficial layers of the skin so all the active ingredients applied afterwards, can get inside!

Even looking at the roller up close in person, it can be difficult to see the tiny needles at all. It sort of feels scratchy on the skin and can leave the face a little flushed for a few minutes afterwards, but that's only due to drawing extra blood flow to the area.
In case you're wondering, no! It does not cause any pin point bleeding at all! You'd have to use a roller with needles about 1mm in length to make that happen (just to give you a comparison).


In conclusion, that solves the on going mystery of why the initial improvement from typical skin care never seems to last. It's just not made to do anything more.

So, maybe it's time to switch over to something that will actually work for you in the long term and won't ever leave you feeling disappointed!!

Just sayin'!


To book a consultation with me text or call 403 991 1663, message me on Instagram @lauras_lasers or email at lauraslasers@gmail.com

Of All Laser and Light Treatments...This Is The Most Dangerous And It's Probably Not What You Think!

With so many different laser and light treatments out there, it can really seem to be overwhelming.
Many people I meet put off exploring these kinds of treatments because they feel like they just don't know where to start, and I'll agree that it can seem pretty intimidating.

I always encourage everyone to do their research or "home work" on the clinic and treatment provider before committing to any kind of treatment plan at all. There are dozens of wavelengths that make lasers different from one another many and different companies that make lasers, which differ in quality.

Of course even if you find a clinic with the most high-tech equipment, the laser technician has to know how to use that piece of equipment properly and have the understanding of the skin, energy, tissue interaction and the condition which they're treating.
It's all actually very complicated and we've all heard one or two horror stories out there from a laser treatment gone bad.

That's why it's so important to find someone with experience and proper education. Since the industry isn't regulated, that responsibility falls on the client.
To clarify, no...you don't need any training or education to treat someone with a laser.
Scary, right? Tell me about it.

You may be wondering "Clinics don't actually hire just anyone, do they?"
Well yes, some do.
I've seen clinics convert their receptionist or manager to "Laser Tech" and suddenly they're treating people to remove hair, to do ablative skin resurfacing and even internal vaginal rejuvenation treatments.

The benefit for the clinic owner is a less expensive "technician" since they have zero experience, they don't get paid as much, and the benefit for the client is.......

Hmmmm, you might have to give me a minute for that one.......scratch that.

It's simply unfair to the client as treatments can be quite pricey and don't come without risks.
Common risks you may see on a consent form for a laser treatment are burns, blisters, scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, infection and permanent eye damage.

Just to name a few.

You may be thinking those risks listed would only show up on a more aggressive kind of laser treatment, right? Well no.
All those things listed above are quite possible even with an innocent laser hair removal treatment.

You may also be wondering what treatment carries the most risk? You're probably wondering that because it's the title of this blog...so ok, I'm getting there.

The treatment that is the most risky, which just also happens to be one of the most popular and well-liked is an IPL which stands for "Intense Pulsed Light".
Also called BBL which stands for "Broad Band Light" or simply called Photofacials.
They're all the same thing.

This is actually not a laser at all, it's light. What makes the two different is a laser is one concentrated beam of energy and contains one wavelength from the light spectrum.

Whereas as IPL or BBL contains multiple wavelengths and is scattered. While a laser being a concentrated beam of energy sounds way more scary than a scattered light...it is actually easier to hurt someone with an IPL than it is a laser.

Since an IPL contains multiple wavelengths and each different wavelength absorbs into certain things like melanin, hemoglobin or water all differently, you have more absorption into different targets all at the same time which is what makes it so much more risky.
The parameters (settings) that are dialled in by the technician have to be ON POINT for the treatment to walk that fine line of effective, yet safe.

To do that the technician should have a solid understanding of the light spectrum and tissue interaction. Sadly not a lot do.
The most common thing I hear from people who have had Photofacials is that they found the treatments ineffective.

This is common since a technician who isn't experienced will often shy away from stronger settings and simply under treat. So sure they're not burning people, but they're also not giving them what they paid for and the client is left disappointed.


Just another reason to do your research on who you trust your face to!


Go to my Instagram page @Lauras_Lasers to see my work, message me if you have any questions or to book a consultation!

Why Environ Skin Care Is The Best Bang For Your Buck, By A Mile!!

It's definitely no secret that I truly believe Environ is the best skin care out there. 
I've been using it for over 5 years and I'm baffled at the transformation my skin has gone through. Not only in the way my skin looks, but in the way it functions as well.

As a skin health professional I also understand what it takes for a topical product to be effective and safe. There is nothing about Environ that doesn't make perfect sense to me.

Of course, I don't always expect people to simply take my word for it since almost anyone who sells skin care for a living will say their product is the best. For that reason people often take that statement with a grain of salt.

So, here's just a few reasons why investing in Environ is worth every single penny, and more.



No Fluff.

Environ doesn't use any "trendy" ingredients in any of their products.
I'm talking about things like 24 Karat Gold, caviar extract, coconut oil, plant stem cells...just to name a few.
Ingredients like these are recognizable, they seem fancy and therefor seem to justify the hefty price tag of the product.

In reality, they do diddly squat for your skin.

If I'm being honest the 24 Karat Gold thing particularly annoys me...how is applying a precious metal to your face going to make it healthier?! Our skin cells don't live off of gold people. Stop it already!

Anyways...
Environ only uses scientifically proven ingredients to feed, nourish and stimulate the skin. Things like vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Things that your cells can actually absorb and put to good use which will increase the quality and normalize the function of the skin.



It Respects The Skin.

When I first started at Facial Esthetics One the clinic had already brought on a different brand of skin care. I will not name names, but it just happened to be a line that I honestly loathe. It's comprised of harsh scrubs, strong retinols that can only be compared to something like battery acid and drying, irritating acid soaked wipes.

I simply couldn't sell the line. I haven't scrubbed my face in 6 years and I don't believe in punishing the skin to force the desired outcome. So, we eventually made the switch over to Environ!

Aaaaah, sweet relief.

To give one great example of what makes Environs approach so different, lets talk about vitamin A, which is the corner stone of Environ.

We naturally lose vitamin A as we age, and things like diet, sun exposure, pollutants and more cause the depletion of vitamin A in the skin to occur even faster.
Since we lose vitamin A from our skin, our skin cells therefor lose the ability to absorb it normally over time.

Few people understand that a deficiency of vitamin A in the skin leads to the development of major problems and contributes to aging and sun damage...and even skin cancer.

Most skin care lines produce some sort of vitamin A/retinol product however, more often than not there is only one strength made, and it's a potent strength!

The problem with this is the skins inability to absorb a high dose of vitamin A right off the bat like that, as a result the cells will absorb what they can but everything left over sits around the cells and irritates the entire area.

The skin reacts by purging which creates major inflammation, peeling, burning, dryness and therefor opens up the skin to more damage.
This is called a retinoid reaction and can lasts for several weeks while continuing to use a product like this. Eventually the skin is forced to adjust and absorb more vitamin A, but until then people tend to go through quite the uncomfortable, embarrassing and even painful reaction until the skin finally normalizes.

This has never made any sense to me since there is literally zero benefit in putting your skin through such a reaction.

On the flip side, Environ has a unique step-up system to introduce levels of vitamin A slowly allowing the skin time to adjust, normalize, strengthen and repeat!

All of their corrective serums come in four different strengths. This ensures the skins barrier is maintained, the integrity is not compromised, the skin is properly nourished and function is improved. Only good things come from doing it this way!
Over time the skin can easily tolerate the highest dose of vitamin A and is much stronger as a result.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, it's our barrier from the environment and it's what we present to everyone around us, so it deserves nothing but love and respect.



Science!!!

Environ is one of the few skin care ranges with its own sterile manufacturing facilities with dedicated chemists and state of the art technology.
All products are manufactured and filled under red light to protect light sensitive ingredients. They are also manufactured under a vacuum to prevent exposure to air which can denature active ingredients.

The packaging is specially designed to protect the product from light and air to ensure maximum hygiene and freshness.

Every single batch is scientifically tested by internationally accredited independent laboratories to check the chemical content and sterility of the product.

For this reason Environ is the only skincare brand in the world to carry the prestigious "Swiss Vitamin Institute" label on their products... no big deal!!
This guarantees the products contain the strength of ingredients that are declared by Environ and that consumers are getting a quality, highly active and effective product.



No Animal Testing.

Environ products are only tests on human volunteers and trials are conducted on more than 100 people over an 18 month period.
What a concept to test a skin care line intended for human skin...on human skin!
No bunnies required.



Standards.

Environ is only sold by professionals. You will never find it at a kiosk in the mall or hear that your girlfriend is now selling it from home as a side gig.

When Environ branches into a new clinic many steps are taken to educate the staff on everything Environ does, makes and why.

Personally I've never received such thorough training on any skincare line like I have on Environ.
The company does this because they are committed to quality and not just the physical quality of what they make, but the quality of product consultations and education that skin health professionals give each and everyone of their clients.

This is just one reasons why Environ doesn't do celebrity endorsements and very little advertising at all. The company has become so successful by creating real results through their products, and that gets noticed all on its own!


*Oh, I would also like to add for good measure that I have never been paid by Environ to promote their products.

I'm simply just a huge skincare snob (I'm not ashamed!!) and promote what I believe in.

3 Easy Skin Care Solutions For Men

After over 5 years in this industry it baffles me how so many men are actually so alike...

Most guys despise having a complicated routine with too many products and think it will somehow derail their entire day if they spend 3 extra minutes in the morning and night to take care of their face.

They often worry moisturizers will make them feel greasy as men usually have oilier skin to begin with, and it can be near impossible to talk them into even wearing a simple sunscreen.

In my experience women are much better thinking ahead. So they invest in preventative measures such as antiaging skin care, they partake in treatments such as laser or injectables to fine tune, enhance and correct before there's a bigger cosmetic issue at hand, or just to age gracefully.

Men on the other hand only show up in my chair when they have big bags under their eyes, dark circles that make them look tired, lines that have set in across their forehead or have suddenly started to breakout.

While I have some great treatments and products for all the above concerns they likely wouldn't even be sitting in my chair so soon if they took the time to do some simple things at home.


1. Cleanse and Tone

There is a rhyme and reason for everything in this industry and the cleansing and toning part of the at home regimen often gets brushed off because it's thought to be unnecessary when it's actually just as important as everything else!

Cleansing removes debris, excess oil and allows impurities to exit the skin. I find men either skip this step entirely or they're using some sort of harsh bar soap that may not even be meant for the face.

Guys, if you're one of the many that complain about how oily your skin is, step away from the bar soap! Now!
Anything that foams and leaves your skin with that tight dry feeling is only going to dehydrate your skin and stimulate your oil glands to produce more oil!!!

Our skin has a natural moisture barrier on the surface and it's there for a reason. It keeps our skin protected, hydrated and clean. By removing this barrier the oil glands kick into hyper drive to replace what was stripped away. That may explain that greasy gross feeling you're noticing around lunchtime or at the end of the day.

Toning is the second essential step as this brings the pH of your skin back to normal which will again, keep your oil glands calm and your skin feeling good.
Now your skin is ready to better absorb any beneficial ingredients from your moisturizer.
If you're one to invest in high quality products (as you should) this means you're getting the most out of your investment!


2. Show Your Eyes Some TLC

Using a hydrating eye product can do wonders to reduce puffiness, dark circles, lines and prevent premature aging of the area.
The skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the entire body. That's why it's usually the first to show signs of aging which can make us look rough and tired. Teoxane has a great option that men especially seem to really like.

The product is called RII Eyes and is hyaluronic acid based which is something that's already found in the human body. Each molecule of HA holds 1,000 times its weight in water!

It has a cooling metal tipped applicator which feels great in the morning and helps to reduce puffiness, it's ever so slightly tinted so it also helps to disguise darkness immediately (No guys, it won't look like you're wearing makeup, I promise!) and it addresses all possible concerns in one easy step...darkness, puffiness, lines, dehydration and dullness.


3. Just Put On The SPF
 
This is easily the best thing you can do for your skin!
Daily use of SPF will prevent aging including lines, wrinkles, brown spots, volume loss, dull skin and sagging. Not to mention it will also prevent skin cancer...the #1 most preventable cancer out there.

My favourite sunscreen is from Environ.
It has an SPF of 25 and is a mineral sunscreen which contains titanium dioxide as well as antioxidants.
It's extremely light, does not contain any fragrance, will not cause or worsen breakouts and doesn't appear chalky on dark skin tones. The size of a small pea covers the full face including the eye area, (don't forget about your eyes guys!) so one tube seems to last forever.


Most guys these days tend to take pretty good care of themselves. They go to the gym regularly, eat relatively well, maintain their hairstyle, have nice wardrobes and wear nice cologne.

All that effort into everything else yet they let their skin take a daily beating of UV rays, pollution, dehydration and malnourishment.



Including these three things will keep you out of my treatment chair longer, will give you healthier skin and I promise you won't regret it!

The 4 Rules Of All Skin Care and Anti-Aging

Balance:

This should take place during your daily cleansing routine, morning and night. To balance the skin means to cleanse without stripping natural and much needed oils and adjust pH levels.
 By doing this, oil gland production is normalized, natural hydration is maintain and the skin is ready to better accept ingredients from any skin care to follow.

I always recommend milky/cream textured cleansers, even for those with oily skin (like myself!) or those with acne. Foaming cleansers tend to remove too much natural moisture and can stimulate more oil production as a result.

As far as toners go, you have to be careful that you're not actually using an astringent that's hiding behind a label that says "toner".
Astringents are full of alcohol and/or ingredients like tea tree oil or peroxides which suck hydration form the skin leaving it feel tight and parched.

A true toner has a pH of 4.5-5.5 and should contain ingredients that give back to your skin, instead of taking away from it.

My two top picks are Environs Mild Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizing Toner.



Nourish:

A lot of people think the skin gets all the nourishment it needs from the foods we eat.
Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it's also the last to receive all the nourishment it needs to look, feel and function it's best. The skin is our barrier from water, sunlight, pollution, wind, temperature extremes and so on.
So therefor it really tends to take a beating like nothing else!

Over time the skin naturally loses vitamin A levels and along with sun exposure and other factors, that depletion is sped up. Vitamin A is so important for a number of reasons but to list just a few...it regulates healthy cell function, speeds up cell production and repairs DNA damage.

Of course your skin needs a lot more than just vitamin A. Things like vitamin B, C, E, peptides and antioxidants should not be over looked as they aid in repair, healthy collagen production, normal pigment production, hydration, increasing cell turnover and much more.

This is exactly why I swear by Environs C-Quence Serum. It's a perfect cocktail of everything your skin needs and comes in different concentrations (level 1 to 4) to build the skins tolerance over time.
To me, the serum is sort of like the skins main course and anything else you use could be thought of as an appetizer or desert to really target specific concerns and speed up results.



Protect:

Sunscreen. Need I say more?
To not commit to wearing a high quality SPF every day is doing your skin a major injustice.
UV rays will breakdown collagen (that beautiful protein fiber that keeps the skin plump, firm, youthful and strong) faster than anything else.

It increases inflammation, causes unhealthy pigment production, creates DNA damage which leads to abnormal cell function and even skin cancer and can even denature vitamins in any skin care you have on before your skin can process and make use of it.

So, to not only protect your skin but also your investment into your skin care...daily sunscreen goes a long, long way.



 Stimulate:

As we get older, like all cells in our body our skin becomes "lazy" and doesn't produce cells as quickly as it used to. This can lead to a build up of old, dead cells on the surface and can make the skin look dry, dull, textured and grey-ish.

It also means the skin isn't as quick to produce collagen in fact, after our 20's the skin stops producing it all together! The only way to keep a healthy skin cell and collagen production going is to stimulate the skin to do so.

Acids are a fantastic way to do this at home. They stimulate a higher cell turn over, so the more often you use them, the more often you'll have new skin. Literally! They dissolve dead, excess cells on the surface and refine texture to give you a bright, healthy and dewy glow.
They also work to lighten pigmentation caused by sun damage, dissolve excess oil, kill bacteria and certain acids like Lactic can aid in hydration.

Peptides on the other hand are best for stimulating the collagen producing cells called fibroblasts, but one of the most effective ways to stimulate collagen production is with in-clinic treatments like laser or radio frequency. While there are seemingly endless options when it comes to treatments, they basically all work the same way...by stimulating a healing response from the skin.

The skin heals by producing collagen. Wow! How convenient!

Treatments don't have to be invasive or involve downtime to achieve this effect however.
Lots of treatments like radio frequency for example work by heating the skin deeply to induce neocollagenesis...which is just a big fancy word that means new collagen production.

By heating the skin to about 40 degrees the radio frequency actually causes collagen to breakdown which stimulates the natural repair or healing response of the skin to make brand new collagen!

A nice bonus of most radio frequency technology is it also causes collagen and elastin to shrink under that kind of heat (kind of like a hamburger on the grill).
This means an immediate tightening/lifting of the skin that can often be seen right away!

In-clinic treatments can really be the fastest way to see significant results but if you don't have your home care routine structured and in-check you won't be getting the best results possible.

That's why my rule of thumb is to always address the products one is using at home first. To start  there is laying a much better foundation for great results from anything that can be done in-clinic.

Microlaser Peel vs. Chemical Peel...What's The Difference?

It's no secret that one of my favourite treatments is a Microlaser Peel.
They're fast, tolerable, aggressive enough that they yield some fantastic results with as little as one treatment, but not so aggressive that it puts you down and out for days and days recovering.

Also known as a Skin Polishing Peel, or Micron Peel. I prefer to perform the treatment with  Fotona Erbium YAG which is a 2940 nm wavelength laser. The huge benefit of this system is that it's a medical grade laser, it's even used for surgery.

So not only is the system extremely high tech, but it's also extremely versatile and allows the user to dial in whatever settings they see fit. It's extremely customizable, unlike some other run of the mill systems out there that have pre-determined programs for the user to choose from...program A, B, C. Level 1, 2 or 3...you get the idea.

My preferred depth for the treatment is 20 microns on the face, and 15 microns on the eyes.
To give you an idea, I'd have to go 1,000 microns to go 1mm deep in the skin.
So, 20 microns is really not that aggressive. It's really only working on the surface to vaporize the dead surface cell layer on top of the skin.

I often compare one Microlaser Peel to have a full series (5 or 6) mild to moderate Chemical Peels, but in one treatment, and with a laser instead. No acids, no chemicals.

The obvious benefit of choosing a Microlaser Peel over a full series of chemical peels is you save a ton of time. Usually chemical peels are done anywhere from 2-4 weeks apart. So it's going to take some significant time to get through all the treatments and finally see the end result.

While I'm also a big fan of chemical peels, they just don't measure up to what a laser can do.
Chemical peels come in different forms, different percentages and pH levels which determine the strength. They work by eating away at dead surface cells, dissolving excess oil, killing bacteria, and stimulating a higher cell renewal rate.

However, a single Microlaser peel does all of that and more. The biggest difference is that by using a laser, you have the added benefit of putting energy into the skin, laser energy, which converts to heat in the tissue.
I can also dial in exactly how much heat I want to put into the skin, which is a huge benefit as that allows me to treat any skin colour and nearly any skin concern.

Heat stimulates collagen production and a natural healing response but much deeper than your typical chemical peel would, so therefor it's much better for anti-ageing.

A Microlaser Peel is also ablative, meaning it removes tissue.
While chemical peels dissolve dead surface cells, a Microlaser Peel done with an Erbium YAG is vaporizing cells.
So if you're someone who's concerned with something like sun damage (brown spots), a Microlaser Peel will physically remove those cells. A chemical peel will only fade the pigment.

There's also the nice bonus of treating right over the eyelids, from the brow down to the lash line and from the cheek bone up to the lash line. You definitely can't take acids and chemicals around the eyes.

After inserting surgical grade ocular shields to protect the eyes from the laser light, the treatment takes about 5 minutes and the result is smoothing, firming and tightening of the area.

After one Microlaser Peel, everyone will see a noticeable difference. The skin is smoother, brighter, softer and more even. After 2-3 peels done one month apart, the results can be remarkable.

There is no real downtime after the treatment, only social downtime meaning makeup cannot be applied for three days afterwards. A post healing balm must be worn instead for those three days to keep the skin protected and hydrated. Sun exposure is a big no-no until a proper SPF can applied on day four.

I do have many patients that choose to go into work regardless of not wearing any makeup and being red and a little blotchy, and that's perfectly fine too. As long as the guidelines are followed afterwards and the proper products are being used, there's no need to hide away for those three days.

Other people however, do schedule the time to stay at home and wait until all shedding and healing of the skin is complete. On day four mineral powders and SPF can be applied and you can go back to your normal routine.

To this day I've never performed a Microlaser Peel for anyone who didn't love the results!

Choosing Products For Your Acne....You're Doing It Wrong!!

Aaaah the skin care isle…bright, colorful and playful packaging, delicious smells, celebrity endorsements and promises of turning your acne around and making your way to perfect, clear skin!

It’s tempting isn’t it? Even as a laser tech and skin health specialist I still even find myself aimlessly wandering down the very same isle.

First off, drug store skin care is just not the way to go in general. It’s inexpensive because it’s cheaply made. If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck and looks like a duck…it must be a squirrel! Oh no wait, I mean it’s a duck, duh! Sorry.

There’s also a stigma when it comes to acne that’s been ingrained in all of us, and most likely from skin care product advertisements. That stigma is that acne skin is dirty skin.

Most of us have struggled with break outs at one time or another. For some it’s short lived and for others, it can go on for years. Therefore, most of us have been in the very same isle wandering aimlessly hoping to stumble upon the solution.

Now, most skin care you see at the drug store that is meant for oily, or acne prone skin tends to be medicated with things like salicylic acid, peroxides, tea tree oil etc and promise to kill off any living thing that is on your face. Wow, intense!

Anyone who has used these kinds of products know firsthand that they leave the skin feeling dry, tight and squeaky clean, but that’s a good thing since we want our skin to be super clean, right?

No, not exactly.

Would you be surprised if I told you that bacteria is not actually the main problem when it comes to acne? Well, then hang on to your squirrels because you’re about to get the shock of your life!

Bacteria is NOT the problem! It’s been proven that those who have acne also have a hypertrophic stratum corneum. Or, an extra thick dead skin cell layer which sits on the surface. These cells stick together and don’t shed off naturally as they do in otherwise healthy skin.

These dead cells lingering around tend to come together with oil and create a clog. Only THEN do the bacteria come into play to feed off the oil.

It’s right about then one finds themselves constantly over cleansing, either too often or with a harsh cleanser, or both!

Well the issue here is that tight, dry squeaky clean feeling those products give you. This is not a good sign as that means you’ve just stripped your skin of all its natural oils and moisture.

Your skin is now exposed to all sorts of environmental damage including bacteria and dehydration. So, what does your skin do to combat this? The oil glands kick into hyper-drive and produce a ton of oil to replace what was lost.

Now you mix in all this extra oil, with those extra dead cells and you’ve really got a problem!

This is why it’s so important to give up those foamy, medicated cleansers and use something gentle. After all, acne is a condition that causes inflammation and damage so the skin could use some extra TLC as opposed to constant punishment.

My recommendations are always a milky cream cleanser, like Environ’s Mild Cleansing Lotion and a pH balancing Toner like the Moisturizing Toner from Environ as well. This ensures the skin is comfortable, hydrated and balanced. Beyond that there are further steps to take like chemical exfoliation and nourishing the skin but that’s best left up to a professional during a consultation to see what your skin needs since everyone is different and not all acne is the same.

Striving For A Higher Standard

These days it seems like everyone and their dog is a skin care expert, it can be confusing to know how to decipher the real information and the trending now, gimmicky kind of information...i.e. 24K gold, collagen, Himalayan salt, coconut oil, and charcoal ingredients that all promise to transform your skin.

 

First off, many people will be surprised to learn that to be a skin care professional there are no requirements or standards set in place. Not even in spas or medi-spas, and of course anyone on the planet (and who knows, maybe even seriously their dog!?) can sign up and start selling skin care from pyramid type companies.

 

Without needing to write an entire separate blog, we’ll just say that the skin is an organ. The largest organ of the body, and just like any other organ it needs proper nutrition to be healthy.

The cells in the skin are growing and dividing constantly, just like all the cells in the rest of the human body. These cells need vitamins and minerals to function normally. When you come across new, trendy skin care you might want to approach with some healthy skepticism.

 

Skin care that provides high quality vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, peptides and hydration are products that will feed, and change the skin. These types of products are placed in a separate category all together, called cosmeceuticals. They are highly concentrated, active products that are only sold through spas or clinics with trained professionals.

 

Even more terrifying, the same goes for the laser and light industry. No requirements, no standards, nothing needed to get behind a laser and start treating people. That being said, it’s always important to do your homework when you’re choosing to hand over not just your money, but your face to someone.

 

Many clinics and spas choose to set higher standards and will only hire estheticians or laser technicians who have gone to school and have experience in the industry.

Some clinics and spas however, do not. So the onus is on the client to research, and to even simply ask what kind of education their esthetician or technician has and what the hiring policies of the establishment may be.

 

While getting bad skin care advice may not be the end of the world as it may only turn out to be a waste of money and dissapointment in the lack of results, a bad laser or light treatment can be far more costly.

Burns, infections, scarring, permanent pigmentation and eye damage are just a few of the complications that can arise from a treatment gone bad.

 

Of course, this article is not meant to instill fear in those who are looking into laser or light treatments. After all when done properly, the results can truly be amazing and well worth the investment.

 

However it’s important to know that these treatments don’t just involve a point and shoot method. Laser and light physics and the interaction this energy has with tissue is a science and something that needs to be well understood by those delivering treatments.

Be diligent, don’t trust blindly and do your homework!

A Beautiful Neck For A Lifetime

The skin on the neck is some of the thinnest on the entire body which means it’s more susceptible to premature aging.

Here are some tips on how to maintain a beautiful youthful neck for years to come...

 

#1: Prevent.

The first step is always prevention. To correct any damage that’s been done to the skin or maintain what you already have, you need to prevent further damage from happening in the first place. In this case that means wearing a high quality SPF daily! Nothing will ruin your skin faster than UV rays as they break down collagen and elastin fibers which is what keeps your skin plump, firm and youthful.

An SPF of about 30 is recommended for day to day use. When it comes to sunscreens you actually have the choice of two different types.

  

Chemical sunscreens contain...you guessed it! Chemicals that absorb into the skin and neutralize UV rays. To do this however the chemicals must go through a process that leads to them breaking down in the skin. This raises some controversy over the safety of these types of sunscreens. Some of the most common chemicals you’ll see listed in the medical ingredients section of sunscreens are oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene.

 

Physical sunscreens contain minerals like Titanium Dioxide and/or Zinc Oxide and these work by simply sitting on the surface of the skin and reflecting UV light. No chemicals, no interaction with the skin.

  

Our preferred sunscreen is from Environ, it is a physical sunscreen with an SPF of 25. The size of a large pea covers the entire face so it lasts forever, it’s non- greasy and will not cause breakouts!

 

#2: Equal Treatment.  

Treating your neck how you treat the rest of your face may sound simple but most of us don’t use our cleanser all the way down our neck, and we might even think using up our toners or moisturizers on the area is a waste.

 

Since your neck has thinner skin than your face it will age faster, so actually your neck needs just as much, if not more TLC than your face does! When you cleanse, tone or moisturize your face make sure to include your full neck! If you don’t, your face may look younger than you actually are but your neck is bound to give away your age in a heart beat!

 

#3: Exfoliate.

When we’re in our 20’s our skin renews itself about every 28 days meaning new skin cells are created in the lowest layers of our skin and the old, dried up dead surface cells flake off. In our 30’s this process slows down to every 40-50 days, in our 50’s and 60’s it can be as slow as every 2 months or more!

This gradual slowing of skin cell renewal is one of the many major changes, and challenges as our skin continues to age.

  

Without proper exfoliation our skin is left look dull, grey-ish, textured and unhealthy. There’s two different ways to exfoliate.

Mechanical exfoliation involves scraping of the skin to force off dead surface cells. The problem with this is it can be extremely irritating to the skin when done regularly, as a result it will increase inflammation in the skin. In the long run it can also cause the skin to thin out and be more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Chemical exfoliation involves acids or enzymes like Lactic or Glycolic acid which come from milk and sugar cane. Enzymes such as Bromelain from pineapple is a more gentle option and great for super sensitive and reactive skin types.

 

The acids or enzymes dissolve dead surface cells and stimulate the skin underneath to reproduce faster. It’s a wonderful way to produce a gorgeous dewy glow! All while being far more gentle in comparison to harsh daily scrubs which, the skin on the neck wouldn’t be able to tolerate for very long anyways due to this area being very thin skinned.

What is Glycation?

Glycation is the process of a glucose (sugar) molecule binding with a protein (collagen and elastin) molecule in the body, causing the protein to become stiff and eventually break.

These damaged structures are known as advanced glycation end products, or appropriately abbreviated as “AGE’s”.

 

Collagen and elastin are the fibers that keep the skin plump, taught and youthful. These fibers, once damaged are not easily replaced by the body.

Scientists have proven that a rise in blood sugar levels causes inflammation on a cellular level throughout the entire body. This means when we eat processed or even natural sugary foods, that this will cause glycation in the skin, and this process helps to speed up aging and its negative effects.

Inflammation from this also causes free radicals to form which attack healthy compounds in the body. As if glycation alone wasn’t bad enough…

 

So what can you do about it? Cutting down on sugar intake will prevent glycation damage. To combat free radicals you need antioxidants. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, causing them to become inactive.

 

Antioxidants should be taken in orally and can be found in foods like berries, pomegranate, oranges , black plum, gala apples, sweet cherries, prunes, raisins, tomatoes, ginger, green vegetables like spinach, kale, broccoli and artichokes, nuts like pecans, walnuts, almonds, steel cut oats , quinoa, black beans, kidney beans and even chocolate (should be unprocessed dark and high in cacao content.)

 

Antioxidants can, and should also be applied topically to the skin with high quality professional skin care products.

 

Products containing vitamin A, C, E and certain extracts and enzymes that can be properly absorbed by the skin are best. This will help combat free radicals and even help to reverse their negative effects on the skin, inside and out.

Menopause and The Skin

Most people associate this condition with hot flashes, loss of menstruation and mood swings, but all of these symptoms are caused by hormone changes and hormones have a direct impact on the skin. The adrenal glands and ovaries of post-menopausal women secrete increased androgens (male hormones) and in the absence of estrogens (female hormones), this has a major impact on changing the physiology of the skin in new and different ways.

 

Dryness: During the reproductive years female hormones stimulate a more fluid, smooth sebaceous gland (oil gland) secretion; this oil along with other substances being secreted and excreted by the skin protects, moistens, cleans and maintains the pH balance of the skin. During menopause as female hormone levels decrease so do oil levels and this causes the skin to become dry, dull, delicate and more susceptible to damage and premature aging.

 

Elasticity: Protein synthesis, like that of collagen and elastin are partially controlled by estrogens. During menopause, the lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed or has a history of long term exposure to ultra violet rays. UV rays actually break down these important proteins, and if we lose our repair mechanism then we lose our skin's resiliency. This results in elastosis.

 

Volume: Estrogens stimulate fat deposits in the female body; as estrogen levels drop during menopause, fat deposits tend to become redistributed and often concentrated over the abdomen and/or on the thighs and buttocks. The result is a loss of supportive fat tissue below the skin in areas like the face, neck, hands and arms; this causes sagging and wrinkling due to loss of volume.

 

Renewal: The growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of estrogens as well. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum (the bottom layer) of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate or cell renewal factor (“CRF” for short.) CRF is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the lowest layer of the Epidermis to the top layer, where it is eventually shed off. This process slows down dramatically with age and factors like diet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure all have a huge influence.

 

CRF by age

Babies: 14 days

Teenagers: 21 – 28 days

Adults: 28 – 42 days

50 and up: 42 – 84 days 

 

Pigment: The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. Melanin protects us from the sun by being released from the melanocytes after long periods of sun exposure, ultimately darkening the skin. The darker the skin, the longer it takes to absorb heat, light and energy. This is our body’s defense mechanism to try and slow the absorption of damaging UV rays. As menopause progresses, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced (they degenerate). With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Therefore, menopausal skin is more prone to sun damage, making it even more important to protect the skin with a proper sunblock.

 

So what can you do to help prevent and correct these problems? The most important thing anyone can do for their skin is have proper home care. You can go to all the fancy salons all you want but at the end of the day if you’re using harsh, incorrect and low quality products at home every day, you’ll be fighting (and most likely losing) an up-hill battle. Any skin, but especially mature, delicate and/or post-menopausal skin needs high quality, high concentrated and active ingredients.

 

-Vitamin A to correct sun damage and protect against future damage.

-Vitamin B3 for uneven skin tone, and increasing hydration.

-Vitamin B12 for healthy cell function.

-Vitamin C to address dullness, pigmentation and fight free radicals.

-Vitamin E for all of the above vitamin synergy and free radical protection.

 

The skin is the largest organ of the body but the last to receive any nutrients from the foods we eat. These vitamins are just the basics of what our skin needs every day.

The Science of Vitamin A

Vitamin A could easily be considered THE essential vitamin for the skin. It’s the only one that can not only reprogram, but repair DNA within the skin cells. This normalizes the cells and leads to a healthier function which can lead to the promotion of natural moisture, accelerated healing, normalizing of pigmentation and healthy collagen and elastin formation.

 

In fact, there is a direct correlation to skin cancer and vitamin A deficiency since skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA which leads to cell mutation. The depletion of vitamin A levels is a natural process that happens as we age, but is sped up by things like sun exposure, smoking, bad dietary habits and more.

 

As the skin becomes depleted, the cells lose their natural vitamin A receptors therefor losing the ability to absorb and use higher levels of vitamin A. Almost all medical grade skin care lines produce a retinol product.

 

This product will typically only come in one strength, and one strength only...the highest allowable level of vitamin A possible, usually as pure retinol. Companies will then instruct people to use their product a few times a week at night, with a warning that they will experience moderate to severe levels of redness, burning, dryness, discomfort and peeling. They often instruct to push through this reaction until the skin normalizes, which can take several weeks!

This is now thought to be the norm when using vitamin A products and some people have gone through such bad experiences attempting to use them that they’ve written off the idea of ever trying it again for good.

 

A retinoid reaction is what happens when the skin is exposed to high levels of vitamin A too quickly. Due to a natural depletion of vitamin A in the skin over the years, the cells lack receptors to absorb and use all the vitamin A.

 

Interestingly enough if you applied the same level of vitamin A product to a child’s skin, the reaction would likely be non-existent, or extremely mild as their skin still contains higher levels of the vitamin and therefor the proper receptors to process it. In an adult however, who has experienced long term depletion the result is the excess vitamin A sits around the cells causing massive irritation and forces the skin to purge.

 

This means a hyper production of skin cells to the point where physical shedding and peeling is experienced. The natural moisture barrier is disrupted; the skin becomes dry, inflamed, delicate and vulnerable. Many people experience sensitivity issues and thinning of the skin from the long term, and even short term use of products like this.

 

Even so, companies will stand by their products saying the dramatic shedding and healing response from the skin creates positive changes and is worth it. The industry has been saturated with the idea that using vitamin A means shocking your skin into getting the desired outcome.

 

However, there is no benefit to a retinoid reaction. In fact there are only downsides to be considered that lead to dehydration of the skin which increases textural problems and increases premature aging. It makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria, pollutants and damage.

 

A much more healthy and respectful way to introduce vitamin A is by applying only the level that the skin can absorb and use at that time. Starting off on low doses and increasing gradually to allow for vitamin A receptor development will ensure the skin can tolerate ultra-high doses eventually.

In the meantime the skins integrity is maintained and harsh reactions that can be painful, troublesome and damaging are avoided. Environ, which is now carried at Facial Esthetics One has a unique step-up system that feeds the skin only the appropriate level of vitamin A, which helps to stimulate, thicken and normalize.

 

Ultimately the health and function of the skin is increased to the point where the highest allowable doses of vitamin A are tolerated perfectly. The result is resilient, healthy, thick skin that will last a lifetime.

Moisturizers VS Hydrators

Moisturizers are products that contain things like oils, silicones, glycerin, or petroleum that coat the surface of the skin, giving a feeling of relief from dryness.

The problem is the sense of relief is temporary and often these products can initially feel good after application, but as the day goes on there can be a buildup of oil on the surface and the tight uncomfortable feeling can return underneath.

 

Once the product has been removed after cleansing, the skin returns to feel parched and tight.

To really correct moisture levels in the skin requires a product that can penetrate and draw moisture inside. This is what separates moisturizers from hydrators. Hydrators contain things like Hyaluronic Acid, which is famous for its water holding capabilities. A single molecule of HA can hold 1,000x its weight in water!

 

When formulated correctly with the appropriate molecular weight, the HA should be able to penetrate the skin deeply, attract water and hold it there. Correcting dryness, and not just masking it. This means the skin will feel better hydrated even when the product is not being used.

Those who struggle with dryness may be those who live in a dry climate (hello Calgary!) and even those on Accutane which sucks the skin dry of any natural oils and moisture, resulting in severe dryness and even cracked, sore skin.

 

For a proper hydrator that’s up for the job, we recommend Teoxane products. Teoxane was first developed in Switzerland and is formulated with a low molecular weight, high quality HA capable of sufficient penetration and correction.

Melasma

Melasma is a common skin concern which is often mistaken as sun damage. Unlike sun damage, Melasma is a pigment which is caused by hormone imbalances.

 

It will typically present itself on the upper lip, across the forehead and in the cheeks. It’s nicknamed the “Butterfly Mask” due to how it will mirror itself on either side of the face. It’s also nicknamed the “Pregnancy Mask” as it’s often first seen during pregnancy.

  

However other things such as the birth control pill, or PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) can also cause the pigment to appear.

 

If diagnosed and treated incorrectly the pigment is easily stimulated and will darken as a result. So proper identification and treatment is crucial.

 

Many people will turn to products that contain the skin bleaching agent, hydroquinone. Banned in a few countries, this ingredient works by essentially poisoning the pigment producing cells called Melanocytes.

 

At first, it seems to work very well in spite of any skin irritation it may cause and will quickly lighten pigment in the skin. However, prolonged and improper use can cause Melanocyte death, killing off the cells completely.

 

Once killed off, a Melanocyte does not regenerate and this can leave permanent hypopigmentation (white patches) in the area where the pigment once was.

There is also debate around the topic of general health and safety of the ingredient since it is considered a carcinogen (cancer causing) in certain concentrations.

 

A better way to lighten pigment in the skin, whether it’s from Melasma, sun damage or trauma is with healthy ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid and licorice root for example.

These ingredients work by simply blocking the communication between the chemical signal and the Melanocyte, with no harm to any cells at all in fact they are actually beneficial for the skin. These ingredients can be used long term with no negative side effects and promote overall skin health.

 

As for treatment, it’s important that whoever is dealing with Melasma is experienced and knowledgeable. Melasma can easily be worsened when treated incorrectly.

 

Melasma is sensitive to heat, sun light and over stimulation caused by frequent treatments. One treatment every six months should be more than enough to keep it under control. As for the kind of treatment, an Erbium cold laser resurfacing is the best option as a very specific depth can be targeted to break up the pigment. The heat is controlled and over a 50% improvement is usually seen after just one session.

 

Post treatment maintenance involves daily use of sunscreen and keeping up with the lighteners and brighteners until 6 months time when treatment can be repeated, if needed.